The oil/grease weight in the diffs is really a personla preference thing. Some people with 1:8th background prefer heavier or solid whereas people with more electric background will prefer looser diffs.

I personally come from a 1:8th background and prefer solid axles to diffs even on twisty tracks. Due to our rules however, we have to have all wheels braking so I run solid axles front and rear as a diff wont work in the front with a rear solid axle.

As for lack of grip on different surfaces, I compensate the loss through the shocks and anti-roll bars which seems to work best for my no brakes driving style.

Re: Re: Re: preaching to the converted
 

To cope with traction rolls you need to put the larger 2.5mm rear roll bar. Haven't tested but some people stated that the 3racing rear blade roll bar is softer than the stock bar.

Saturday we did some pretty backflips and traction rolls at my track.... Grey springs, 42/42 shores, messing with shock positions.... none, nothing, nada.... the cure for this was the 2.5mm roll bar.

In fact, broke my personal best lap... Oumph! 20,05 secs from Barry Baker last year are quite near... near! only more HP, please. :D :D :D

there plenty of hop-ups that we run on our cars, such as:

1. Alu. Anti-roll bar mount (Front)
2. Alu. Center Shaft mount
3. Alu. Radio Plate Support
4. Alu. Engine Brace
5. Alu. Brake Bracket
6. Alu. Hex Drive Hubs
7. 4mm Chassis
8. Teflon Brake Pads
9. CVD front
10. Alu. Engine Mount

if you want to reduce flex of the car, item 3 & 4 is what you need.
The car handles great even w/o hop-ups too! Ask robbie! he ran his car stock during Winternat!

anyone running the k-factory rear adj blade bars yet? looks good!

Yep :sweat:

They work very well :nod:

I picked mine up from

www.justrc.com

It only took 2 days

What's the difference between the stock rear sway bar, the Mugen 2.5, and the blade type bars? I'm assuming it's stiffness, but which is softest, stiffest, and which is more adjustable?

I only can talk about the Mugen 2.3mm and the 2.5 (the ones I own). But what I've read here is in order of stiffness go like this:

- Mugen 2.5mm.
- Mugen 2.3mm (Stock).
- 3 Racing blade bar.

On adjustability, the 3racing is the most adjustable, but the wire ones are too adjustable (you only need to adjust the stiffness moving the ball coupling on the bar inner or outer).

So the 3Racing bar is softer (at its softest setting) than the stock bar? But at its stiffest setting, should be stiffer than the 2.5 bar?

Hi guys,

My MTX-3 is still stock, and I have a question on diffs.

I replaced the supplied one way with a diff. I run 5000 front and 3000 rear. I only run at one track. It's alphalt, short track with many tight corners.

I dont have experience playing around with diff settings. My quiestion is, does my setting sounds right? I know that it's not possible to point out the best setting as there is no such thing, many variables need to be factored in. At least I just want to make sure that I'm in the right direction.

:)

I also run on a tight asphalt track with a front diff and rubber tires. I am presently using 10,000 and 5000 front and rear with great results.

Play around with you're diff oils....

You may like using 50,000 or 100,000 wts in the front diff if you run on a tight track while using 10,000 to 30,000 wts in the rear, this may seem odd to do but try it and see how it does.....

They're is no split like in 1/8 scale, but you may run you're rears about .5 to 1 mm bigger than the front tires depending on tire wear....

Aluminum side brace is a must and radio tray brace also....

goto this site for all of you're hopups

www.justrc.com

Re: Re: Re: Re: preaching to the converted
 

Which blocks were you using in the rear????

What track were you at????

FYI:

For those of you that just bought your cars and are planning to upgrade soon be aware that the RDLogic Radio Tray support is not compatible with the new 4mm chassis from Mugen. I guess this goes for everyone that have yet tp hop up their cars too.

Im going to running on a big track (Las Vegas Silverbowl R/C track) and I was wondering if anyone knew of a good gear ratio to run on this track. I will be using the MR-12 engine.