Has anybody already tried to use front oneway with rubber tires.... and what did you think about it ????

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i think it is not really that good....

mould metal
 

the 2002 version of that stuff is called KNEAD IT and it is found in all major hardwares downunder for under $10. Ive used it on several stingers and its a life saver for pipes. Simply cut and knead and apply, it goes off in about 20 mins, gets quite warm, moulds easily around stinger.

Driving with rubbers and one-way is something more delicate, but possible. In fact, two years ago our national championship was with rubbers and almost everyone used one-way.

i weight the my mt3 and ntc3 and the mtx3 is 1.8 ounces
heavier that the tc3 using the same electronics.
the wheight difference might be from the centax
61.7 for the mtx3 and 58.9 for the ntc3 but the
mtx3 is more balanced from side to side and front to
back.

New shipment from Mugen:

MR.12 Engine
Alum. Wheel Hubs for MTX3
Rear Universal for MTX3
and more parts back in stock.

Vince
www.microRCshop.com

I have but not on the MTX-3. I like it because it has lots of steering in and out of the corners. You need to set the car very differently. Brake early (and softly) and really stiffen up the front of the car to reduce oversteer. Use heavier shock oil and stiffer springs in the front in order not to have too much weight transfer to the front during braking. You would also want to limit rear droop for that purpose.

With foams on one way front diffs, I can brake considerably harder but not as hard as cars equipped with front and rear diffs.

With rubbers, they are more sensitive to braking. You need to set it very lightly so that the rear end does not swing out.

And yes, the car needs to be very balanced left and right especially when you use rubber tires with one way front diff. The tweakstation is a nice tool for that.

Can someone confirm whether the MTX2 outdrives for the front one way are the same as the MTX3?

I didn't notice I lost an outdrive, and Im having a hard time tracking a LHS locally urgently.

If you have an MTX2 instruction manual, can you confirm the code is T0219?

Thanks

novarossi check your pm:nod:

Thanks Greg :)

We got the MTX3 parts at www.perthrc.com.au....especially dogbones, outdrives and UJ's

you may use xray front oneway outdrive. less prone to wear and lighter.

It's a direct fit or needs messing with file and other tools?

Seems that Manti lost at least one time an one-way outdrive and needed to replace it... :sneaky:

I have never lost anything except in a crash last week. I lost a rear dog bone instead and one of the rear arm smashed into 4 pieces. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

all heavy duty front oneway has 6mm oneway bearing and basically all front oneway outdrive fit. the xray outdrive fit is because xray use bone cap and it has 3mm slot on the outdrive instead of 2mm.

Ouch! that hurts. I've smashed front arms, uprights and the usual hardware. But the only two times I got T-boned was hurted seriously.

On the attachment, you will find the results of being boned by a team mate on the virgin run of my Xray Evo 2. :flaming: :flaming: :flaming: At least let me to run 4 full laps at interesting pace.

Broken A-arm, shock parts, rear shock tower, bent the shock rod, bent the universal and other things that I've discovered at house due to the faulty handling.