Serpent-Dan

iTrader: (18)

Check your rear bearing for rust too. That's where the real issue would be.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Thank you, I was able to remove most of the rust from the outside of the crank. Inside is a little more of a challenge... How do i tell if the rear bearing is rusty? It was hard to get the crank out, but it came eventually.

Thanks in advance
Andrew

Serpent-Dan

iTrader: (18)

Feel it by hand if it feels gritty then it's bad

Grinder

iTrader: (2)

That is rust. It is very important to use after run oil at the end of each day of racing. An engine can rust very quickly in humid conditions. Burn all excess fuel out if the engine. Fill the entire carb ventury with after run oil. Then turn the engine over a few seconds to circulate the oil. There will not be any rust on any of the internals.

I like to add an ounce, or two of castor oil per gallon to that fuel. It helps the internals wear much better. I do the same with VP, and Byron's right now. Klotz benol is good.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

+5000

blis

Remove the plug when adding the after-run.

Pooh2

It may sound as if I'm over doing it but... I even put after run oil in my engines between Qualifiers if it's humid outside. May sound like overkill but my engines don't rust at all when I do.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

This is my brothers engine and it looks now like it could have been cared for a little better... I am no expert with this stuff, but the front bear is very gritty feeling and the main bearing is smoother although I am sure both now needing to be replaced.

Is that rust around the edge of the main bearing? and why the discolouration in the bearing itself? I have also noticed the channels inside the crankcase are all yellow with a light build up

Look forward to hearing your thoughts!

Thanks in advance
Andrew

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Yellow build up is probably just castor residue or maybe dye from the fuel, nothing to worry about. The bearing definitely has some rust on it.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Thank you, are we right in saying the bearings really should be replaced now?

Thanks
Andrew

blis

Andrew, remove them, clean them up and check they are still good and put them back. If they are flogged, then yes replace them.

(Wingracer - I race with andrew and his brother)

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Harry thanks, I can't even get Richard to clean his air filter he says it will just get dirty again

I think Richard has ordered new bearings already, will see how we go... Out of interest do you know if that "Pineapple Juice" we use is straight Synthetic or does it have some castor oil?

Thanks
Andrew

blis

I think it's a blend...

Whatever people say about their fuel, Nitro is a hydroxide and methanol is hygroscopic attracting moisture/water. I also dont like flooding the engines with after run.

It takes me around 20 minutes to pull an engine down, wipe it clean, lube and put it back together. It also gives me a chance to give the block a good flush with brake cleaner (in and out) to remove any grime, check carby boot and get into those hard to reach places.

If you are changing bearings, make sure the bearing seats are clean of debris, a poorly installed bearing can cause grief. CHILL/Freeze the bearings and crank before installing them into your WARM block.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Harry

Understand, first ever nitro car I damaged the O-rings in the carby and the needles would do what ever they wanted while car was running from using ARO down the throat of the carb like I was told to do from LHS. So haven't been a fan since... The only time Richards TG has seen it is when I have pulled it down, between that happening it has just been sitting with fuel sitting in it.

Anyway, never stop learning

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

Thanks, once I opened it the "RUST" pretty much just wiped off with almost no effort. Better believe ARO will be used from now on