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Old 06-14-2005, 12:17 PM   #121
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NitroNubee. Catching rust very early on. Most all problems can be reversed.

I know before doing any of this stuff rust would occur even when using the professional in store nitro blast for cleaning. Ive seen it show up on screws mainly , dog bones and washers.

Im not sure exactly where you think you have rust. If anything im thinking you just have some build-up of sand and grit.

I noticed with the blasting if you dont move the car around a bunch when cleaning it tends to do that as Im guessing stuff will collect on or around bearings , one-ways etc , driveshafts and so on.

When you move it, it gets it up and out of there while cleaning. This is also why Im going to be using wd-40 after most my cleanings now. Then I blast off that with air to make it dry with a nice light light coating of wd-40.

This should bring things back. But from time to time all rc cars need a little break down or too. I usually for this take off the bulk head , upper deck and gas tanks or whatever little amount I can do that gets me access to everything else. Then perform the same cleaning....this gets much deeper and will also help knock that problem out.

Then you can go back to regular cleaning.

But for the rusted parts. Lots of great stuff works. You can get 2000grit sand-paper and just sand it, then get aluminum polish and rub that on for a bit, buff off and tada brand new part. Probably better than before.

Just remember dont go beserk on this step if the part has tolerances it needs to keep so there isnt slop or whatever else.

Ive taken apart motors and done the aluminum polish on a motor that was rusted and seized up after not running it for a year and a half. After doing all that. The motor runs as good as my other twin motor that didnt get the problem.

I also have a compression tester and its the same if not better on compression.

Last edited by Artificial-I; 12-14-2005 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 06-15-2005, 09:37 PM   #122
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WOW! Thanks for the great answer, A-I! You're right, I need to break it down a little more often. I am gaining confidence the more I work on it. You guys on this forum are way up there on knowledge. That is why I am glad I joined! I will never be in this class, partially because I probably will never race in an event (no time and no track near by). But, I am loving this hobby and my cars are amazing!

Just tonight I was getting some help with my MTX-2. Earlier, I mentioned it was not shifting into 2nd. My neighbor helped me adjust the clutch and shift point in the tranny. He knows a little about R/C, he only designs airplanes and cars for Hobbico. He is really good with everything. Unfortunatly, we got rained out just before we hit the right spot. That car is like a rocket!!

The rust showed up on the middle shaft. If you are not familiar with Mugen, it is the shaft that holds the pulleys for a couple of the drive belts. My neighbor didn't think it was enough to hurt it. But, I will try your method to clean it up. No need to buy a new one, eh?

The guys at Ace have been a big help as well! I am waiting on a clutch bell for my MTX-3 to put on an RB X12 from them. Hopefully, that car will be running again. AND, if a 44T spur would come in from being backordered, I will have my HPI RS4 3 EVO (with a Nova .15 in it ) back in action.

Thanks again, A-I. I'll keep you posted!
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Old 06-16-2005, 05:46 PM   #123
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I see, yeah the shaft is fine. You caught it early. Just take it out and get like a paper towel and mothers aluminum polish and put some on....and spin away while clinching it with the towel and polish smashed between that. That should make quick work of the rust.

Have you searched for any local tracks? You can always set up your own. Its pretty fun, if you have a gas blower. Then your pretty much ready to rock. You can buy cones from anywhere. I got some hobby ones.

Then blow off a parkinglot. Then get yourself a compressed bug spray type tank. Basically for blowing solution all over. Then let it dry a bit and tada....you have yourself a grippy track.

If you really want you can also use like grape soda. That way its also marking a road for you. So lets say its light color parkinglot. The dark soda will make a more visible line. Then start tearing it up. Heck find a friend or something and you can have some real racing.

Get a little stop watch , time each other. Some remotes even have timers built in.

Youll be amazed at how much more fun it will become when your actually racing the car and trying to lower times and cut through areas and go into a nice long straight then into a nice corner.

I would even try copying layouts that you see or would like to try. Then take a lap or two and maybe adjust it to your liking and your off having a good afternoon of racing.
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Old 06-17-2005, 08:18 AM   #124
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Thanks A-I! I am not too far off from your advice. I have a small list of tracks in Illinois but they are 2-3 hours away on average.

I have found a perfect parking lot I run on. It is big, open, new and asphalt. AND, it has big lights for night time racing! The asphalt is a little slick, but that makes it interesting. It is black so the soda might not show up. Where would I find the stuff the pro's use to spray on the pavement to make it sticky? I have tried to get a friend to race with me, but he has been busy with work and home improvement projects. He even has a gas leaf blower we could use.

I have been practicing my cornering in my neighborhood. There is a cul-de-sac accross from my house I drive into and come flying out, making the corner onto my street. It is fun but with the slopes for drainage in the intersection, you tend to hop around a bit.

I have a JR XS3 radio, it has the stop watch/lap timer feature on it. "So, I got that goin' for me, which is nice." I just hope to get to use it sometime.

OK, time for update. See if you have any advice for me on this one. My MTX-2 is still not running right. I could not adjust my tranny myself yesterday and I think there is a bigger problem than that. The tranny/clutch kinda get snagged in one spot. It just doesn't "feel" right. So, instead of bothering my neighbor again, I thought I would try a little trouble shooting of my own. I took the MT12 out of the 2 and put it in my MTX-3. Only after changing the flywheel since it was too big. So, I have it with me today to test at the parking lot. It was 10:15 last night when I fired it up. I couldn't see it too well and it is so fast, I could not give it a proper testing. I am not sure what is going on. My MTX-2 was such a perfect, reliable car. Ever since I started cleaning it with this solution I have had problems! I will take apart the tranny tonight to see if anything looks funky. Then, I will clean up the shaft. That's it for now. Sorry for rambling. I'll update you this afternoon or tomorrow if I don't get a chance. Thanks again!
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Old 06-17-2005, 10:00 AM   #125
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Yeah just stick to d alcohol. I think it might keep problems down. Ive just heard everyone mention this and that and all these combos for solutions.

But it seems the magazines tend to just say d alcohol....it seems they might be right for once. LOL.

But I doubt cleaning would have caused any problem. I know even with standard nitro blast all this stuff would happen then. I use to just use nitro blast sprays in the cans. And I got rust and things on the same stuff I get it on now. Nothing new.

The blasting Is the same , just better and cheaper. It sounds like one of the gears might be stuck and it might have come loose or something again. I think the neighbor would be able to assist yah the best...lol. Im not the best with picturing things. If I see it though I can be like ohhhh this and this and grab this and move this. While here its just too hard.

I find sometimes just reassembling parts that have trouble sometimes fixes things or Ill find what was missing and causing trouble.
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Old 06-17-2005, 10:12 AM   #126
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you may also want to check your bearings one of them may have seized or is damaged.
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Old 06-17-2005, 12:53 PM   #127
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That's a good idea, Regg! I'll have a look. Thanks!

A-I:

It is especially hard to describe when you are not even sure what is wrong. I wish you were in town to dial in my car! I'll take it apart tonight and look at the bearings and tranny.

Update on the MTX-3 (MT12 + centax): It was a short test. I fired it up, made one pass slow, turned around and hit it. Man, the car was flying! It hit 2nd gear and took off like a rocket. I then ran out of pavement and needed to stop and turn around. When I turned, I saw something fly off and the car wouldn't move, although the engine still ran. I checked it out and what I saw go flying was a spur gear. The damn E clip came off again! That was my 3rd one! When I bought the bag of parts for the pin and clip, I didn't think I needed all of them. I am sure glad I did! So, one high speed pass and that was it. At least it hit 2nd gear. Why would that clip keep coming off? I had it snapped in the groove. It will take 5 min to fix but, I don't want to have this keep re-occuring.

Thanks for all the input! Oh, the clutch bell from Ace arrived today. 5 days from Cali! Thanks JR! So, I'll have more to work on tonight. And tomorrow, I am getting some D-alcohol! Have a great weekend all! I'll check in later......
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Old 06-18-2005, 12:15 AM   #128
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Artificial-I : Which simple green products did u use? All-purpose cleanerS?

Tiger

PS- http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext.php

Last edited by tiger266; 06-18-2005 at 12:30 AM.
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Old 06-18-2005, 06:39 AM   #129
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Simple Green , nothing else. What you have showing is simple green extreme. Which sounds like it could be possibly better.

I have never tried that one. But it sounds like its worth a try. I though simple green only made that. But yeah just the plain one you find at sams , wal-mart.
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Old 06-18-2005, 06:41 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroNubee
That's a good idea, Regg! I'll have a look. Thanks!

A-I:

It is especially hard to describe when you are not even sure what is wrong. I wish you were in town to dial in my car! I'll take it apart tonight and look at the bearings and tranny.

Update on the MTX-3 (MT12 + centax): It was a short test. I fired it up, made one pass slow, turned around and hit it. Man, the car was flying! It hit 2nd gear and took off like a rocket. I then ran out of pavement and needed to stop and turn around. When I turned, I saw something fly off and the car wouldn't move, although the engine still ran. I checked it out and what I saw go flying was a spur gear. The damn E clip came off again! That was my 3rd one! When I bought the bag of parts for the pin and clip, I didn't think I needed all of them. I am sure glad I did! So, one high speed pass and that was it. At least it hit 2nd gear. Why would that clip keep coming off? I had it snapped in the groove. It will take 5 min to fix but, I don't want to have this keep re-occuring.

Thanks for all the input! Oh, the clutch bell from Ace arrived today. 5 days from Cali! Thanks JR! So, I'll have more to work on tonight. And tomorrow, I am getting some D-alcohol! Have a great weekend all! I'll check in later......
Your e-clip has lost its grip. Due to being bent out of shape...basically its now loose. You can fix this by getting a new e-clip or simply take some needle nose plyers and crimp it closer together so it will retain a tight fit.

If your e-clip can go on easy by hand...then it probably needs to be bent a little tighter. My e-clips are really hard to get on. To where I need a tool or needle nose plyers to squeeze it on.
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Old 06-18-2005, 11:49 PM   #131
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That's the crazy part, A-I. It was a brand new clip! This time I made double sure it was seated. I tested it out and so far so good. Tonight, I took out the MT12 and re-installed the RB that I originally had in there (the MTX-3). I'll test it on Sunday, if I get time out from being spoiled on Father's Day (yah, right!) I should be happy to get to go golfing at the county club! (I am )

Right now, the problem still lies with the MTX-2. Without you being here, the best way to describe it is, it just does not free-roll very well. The engine is out of it, the brake is off and something just does not "feel" right. I have yet to tear it down. It could be bearings, it could be the transmission, I am not sure. Anyone have any suggestions? Please bear with me, this is only my second season in nitro.

I think what tiger meant was, there is different Simple Green products out there (yellow, I think). But tiger, what we have been using is the plain green stuff. It works great! Funny, I haven't had a running car lately to clean! Soon, oh yes, soon!

Thanks again for the advice/tips everyone!
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Old 06-21-2005, 12:29 PM   #132
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Try to isolate the problem. With the engine out, see if the binding is in the front end or rear end. Then just start taking it apart. I guarantee that it will take you less time to tear it down, inspect it and reassemble it then it does to come here post and wait for a response. I'm not saying not to ask questions here though. Just trying to say that it doesn't talk too long to take the car apart.
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Old 06-21-2005, 01:15 PM   #133
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Q-tips
Carb and choke cleaner
Windex
tooth brushes
nitro blast
and lots of towles and all my car look like new every time i run them.
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Old 06-21-2005, 01:46 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
Try to isolate the problem. With the engine out, see if the binding is in the front end or rear end. Then just start taking it apart. I guarantee that it will take you less time to tear it down, inspect it and reassemble it then it does to come here post and wait for a response. I'm not saying not to ask questions here though. Just trying to say that it doesn't talk too long to take the car apart.
Thanks Rapidboy! Oh, I am not waiting on a response. I have started to tear it down but have not had too much time to work on it. So far, all I have done is take out the engine, unhook the misc. items and take off the radio tray. I feel the mid-block bearings or shaft are suspect. Since I spotted a small bit of rust on the shaft. From there I will check the diff's and wheel bearings. Now, I am grabbing at straws. Anyhow, it's just one step at a time, right? I'll keep everyone posted!
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Old 07-03-2005, 02:55 PM   #135
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Hi again all,

I just wanted to make sure what should i look out for in an air compressor used for cleaning my car?

Is a standard airbrush compressor powerful enough?

Thanks and cheers!
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