That or like some 500 weight shock oil. Ive got 45 wt trinity oil in right now and it seems pretty good. As well try the purple springs in the front. I would do that but even with a spool on a tight track turn in is about perfect.

AI- Is the purple springs softer or stiffer than the rears? Do you run with the stocks in the rear if you use purples front? I need to get two of each other spring to test em out. It was odd for me to run the car at the track with the same box stock kit setup when the tires didn't grip, but it was all due to weather. However after truing them they still had nothing to offer. Swapped to a different tire, same shore though, and it works awesome. :confused: changed?

I'm using Front 1 way..... as rmdhawaii ask. My understeering is on throttle on mid cornering, the car push & push if I give some gas ...... while a car behind mine is about to skin me alive. I think it's time to use Purple (1.6) Springs Front and Light Blue (1.7) Rear. I'm also thinking to use 37 Front and 40 Rear for tyres, to give more steering perhaps.

I tried searching the site, but is there a chart for the spring to show the differences between them?

from soft to harder


purple
light blue
dark blue
grey
white

The MTX-4 is a good car. I'm still in two minds about the R40 and the MTX-4. I switched to the MTX-4 about 6 months ago. I immediately noticed that the car was more planted than the R40 in the rear. I struggled to get to my best time set with my R40 for about 5 months. That was with help of about 5 other MTX-4 drivers.(2 top MTX-4 drivers in country as well). Two events ago I only managed to better my previous best time. So i thought, finally I can say that I made the right switch.

So for our last club event, I thought, maybe I must go with the R40(hara kit) just to see how it goes.(just for fun). AND I BROKE MY DAM RECORD AGAIN.(Faster lap and and overall time in qualifier.)

What I like about the R40 is that it is way easier to work on.(about 4 screws and you can take anything out. Where with the MTX-4 it sometimes means stripping half the car. It seems to me that the R40 also holds its setup better in the mains.(more consistant) The MTX-4's handeling seems to change allot as the final goes on.(I guess its due to tyre wear).

What I like about the MTX-4 is the parts quality. They are using way better plastics on the car. It is about time for the kit to come out with the cvds as standard(R-kit). And parts supply is only 10m away from track. With the R40 it is about 60km away. The R40 is like getting a tatoo on a wild nigth out. You only show it to your buddies, and you just cant get rid of it. :lol: :lol:

I like the MTX-4 allot, I must get the dam car to go faster...........(and HPI is not developing the R40 any further.)

I think it does come down to you driving style as well. Guess Ill have to change my driving style. :nod: (maybe drink before I drive and not after) :lol:

Maybe we can hear more opinions from the other R40 guys that switched to the MTX-4. There are a couple of them on this forum.(Well more than a couple)

The MTX4 does require slightly more to dismantle, but a majority of the time I don't need to do so. It's also stronger than the R40 plastic wise and dogbones/cvas. The cvas, pivot balls, and pivot hubs were real weak points on the R40 as they were common parts to fail. I'd even break stuff being hit from other cars, but the Mugen takes a beating and still goes on. Indeed better quality, made me a better sedan driver, and definately worth the $$. :nod: R40 is still a good car though, but my part support somewhat went down.

Scott- Thanks for the info on the springs.

realli excited. Me and buddy just laid our hands on the mtx4R..bought the osTZ 5 port with the os T1040 pipe..using futaba 9451 for both throttle and steering..using k-factory foams...bought in hong kong for a steal...

Today i went to rc CHAMP in OSAKA...instant high when i was outside.
Very nice place with tons of stuff..very nice staff MASA san help me with everything as i only speak english..bought titanium coated shock shafts, kawahara 4mm chassis, mugen pipe ....and tonnes of other stuff..woohoo...
gonna visit super RC tomorrow and see wat do they carry...japan is a great nation.

can't wait to run in my car as soon as i get back...cheers guys :)

FYI..the kit and engine is even cheaper here then in hong kong!

I just bought a food weight scale today ( digital, up to 3kg, 1gr sensitivity ). I'm curious to find out the total weight of my car (race ready : body, tires, battery, transponder, except NO FUEL). It comes to 1811 grams..... not so light , I know.

I wonder anyone here get close to 1750grams with Race Ready Conditions ?

BTW, 1750 grams is the minimum legal weight, right ?

Im semi forgetting what I had my car down to, but I think it was 1650G race ready weight. Its now about 1700G race ready.

Legal is 1725G

Well its off to more testing. Although I got most of the setups down and traction for the car, I been wondering if anyone went with more than 2 degrees of toe in for the rear and more camber in the front and rear of the car? Also, after seeing my friends Modded X12 I been lookin at another motor to purchase in the long run. The Carlsen TZ is nice for now though as being really smooth and reliable it has made me a better driver. It also has plenty of top end to keep up with all the other motors. For when I get even better I'd need something with a bit more bottom end and I was wondering what to get. Any ideas?

JP

Err. any other options without spending $400+ for a .12 motor? :confused:

180 dollar JLR Red Dot... :)

You could always give a Ninja a go! ;)