rcracerdude

Pinoy ka ba pre? Pinoy din to sa Arizona. So much difference from the design that really shows on the track. The car seems more balanced compared to MTX-3. I had more consistent lap times with the 4. Considering how much time I already spent on my 3, the 4 beat my best time in just 2 nights of racing with minimal changes. I think the car can be even better with some more tweaking. I like the most is the tire wear. Racers who run in a really tight track (45'x90') with front diff would know exactly what I mean. With the 4, Im not afraid of running out of time before my next race, changing the rear diff With the 3, won't even touch it in club racing It's as tough as the 3 except for the rear shock tower. But we know the solution to that already. (aftermarket!)
Ok, I'll let the other people make more comparisons...

MRX_joe21

So sa AZ tul? baka punta ako dyan mga next week sa avondale tapos race tyo dyan...

Vinyard

Its good, i am using it.

I know it is legal for the JRMCA races, and the Japanese have some strict rules on racing. So me guess it would legal for IMFAR and the rest of the other bodies.

But i did heard that ROAR has some strict rules too??

Would somebody that runs ROAR races enlighten us?

Two-speed

iTrader: (24)

Hmmmm... If they actually had any in stock, that is.

rcracerdude

Ok pre. Every friday night ang race dito starts at 7pm. Eto yung website for directions:

http://www.scottsdalerc.com/

JABRONI

Here is the website address for Body Rules:
http://www.roarracing.com/pdfs/2005rules3.21.05.pdf

6.1.3 Body Approval process:
6.1.3.1 An Approved Body List is maintained by the ROAR Technical Director, and published on the ROAR website (www.roarracing.com). If a body is not on the approved body list, it is not legal for use at ROAR-sanctioned events.
6.1.3.2 The ROAR Administrator or Technical Director can provide full details of the submission process on request.
6.1.3.3 To be approved, bodies must conform to the provisions of rule 6.1.17.2 and 6.1.17.3below. The body manufacturer or distributor must submit samples of the body to the ROAR Body Committee, along with the required fee.
6.1.3.4 All approved bodies are required to have the manufacturer's ID and Body number molded into the lower portion of the windshield or on the body below the point where a windshield would have been on the full scale counterpart. Otherwise, the proof of the legality of a questionable body is the responsibility of the driver.

ogreasurada

iTrader: (1)

Does the car require removing the side belt to change engines?

Chris West

No it doesn't but it is the easiest way to get the eninge out.

Chris West

I broke my rear shock tower yesterday screaming around the track and the lola body just ripped off the car as I came around the corner to the main strait. I dont recall crashing into anything before hand the only thing I think it could have been is the amount of stress that was put on it with a hard setup.

BatJam1

Yeah I had e-mailed them and they replied that Mugen is out of stock on the car! Awaiting a new shipment!

asw7576

I think the rear shock tower is just too thin for mistake

Is there any hop up options for MTX4 carbon fibre stuffs ?

asw7576

Try this :

Leave the engine mounting in chassis. Take out the engine by removing the four upper ( hexagonal ) screws. You need round hexagonal screwdriver 2.5mm.

MAVICXXX

i duno bout rest of owners,d stock ratio seems like ok.. i thought wana try 16/22 pinion..
but how do u guys chnge it?d current mugen centax tools cant fit..
i thinkin of driling another 2.0mm hole opposite d current 1 to make it locks properly instead of having 1 hole,then grip d pin wit a plier,turn d pinion..
any more ideas?

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

has anybody had a problem with the clutch bell hitting the 2speed hub? I've had this happen 2 times and my 2 speed is showing signs of "bands" being rubbed on the edge. I'm thinkinb about machining a few mills off the 2 speed hub where it is rubbing

MAVICXXX

i dunt think so u may do like X3 coz been trying few times cant be done..
current practice me do take out d whole unit rear part then only d engine comeout ezly.. d problem is d upper deck bit longer til touches d engine mounting/crankcase while u wana lift up to take out..

try and c.. i also want to get d simpler way to do it..

another thg, Riketsu:
1st no more using long screw for d rear knuckle assmbling d camber linkage or steering linkage,it is now more better way it was done..but for the front&rear 3mm shock tower,it is like logical to fit 4mm,there should be option parts for it later..but d lastyear Brazil WC,i saw most RRR running wit 3mm still maybe their hands stiffens d shocks..