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Old 11-08-2005, 08:55 AM   #1891
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Thanks Jo, I'll try that tonight, and post results tomorrow.


Not only do I love the car, I love the Mugen X12 engine too.
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Old 11-08-2005, 09:02 AM   #1892
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Originally Posted by Jea3
Thanks Jo, I'll try that tonight, and post results tomorrow.


Not only do I love the car, I love the Mugen X12 engine too.

no problem. remember to take out only necessary material where it actually touches the diff case. don't over do it!
good luck
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Old 11-08-2005, 01:21 PM   #1893
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JEA3, The post following yours is correct. I too looked at running a diff. I have one built, but don't know if I am going to use it yet. If I feel a little better, I might go down and see how it handles with the oneway, if not, I will start with the oneway and go from there. I am planning on running a motor that is a little down on power too. Too much power can mean a car that is hard to control getting on power... See you Sunday!
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Old 11-08-2005, 03:29 PM   #1894
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Are you guys just stuffing the servo wires into the side of the gas tank? Thats the only way I can seem to get everything in there right. Also, I was just going to go with a regular on/off switch but now, I think it might be better to have a on/off switch with a charge-in jack. I can not wait to run this car; I just received some spare parts from Nitrohouse minus the side-belt due to being out of stock.
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Old 11-08-2005, 03:37 PM   #1895
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Originally Posted by mgreen
Are you guys just stuffing the servo wires into the side of the gas tank? Thats the only way I can seem to get everything in there right. Also, I was just going to go with a regular on/off switch but now, I think it might be better to have a on/off switch with a charge-in jack. I can not wait to run this car; I just received some spare parts from Nitrohouse minus the side-belt due to being out of stock.

you could but it's kind of dangerous and prone to being all wet from fuel spills (i.e. from pit stops or just from regular fueling) which could lead to glitches especially if the connectors are right at the bottom of the chassis

i personally like cutting the servo wires to length. this way everything goes neatly. the only drawback is that you may not be able to use the servo for another car anymore without adding wire again. i also posted this pic a few pages back of my car with a micro jr switch installed in the receiver protector that i modified to have a charge jack (it has a red cap protector in the pic below). you can also use a regular size swith by using the switch plate that came with the kit

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Old 11-08-2005, 03:48 PM   #1896
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Thats a good idea with the charge-in jack and on/of switch. Is there a site that has a howto in cutting the servo wires to length? I guess I would needs some wire stripers.
I say that with a big smile on my face because I can already see myself destroying new servos.
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Old 11-08-2005, 03:56 PM   #1897
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i don't know if there is one out there. there's ends available out there so you can make it nice and neat. but i did it the elementary way. with the servos in place, i stretched the wire to the receiver and cut where i thought would be the ok length. and then just solder them up (you know, red to red, black to black and so on). i use tiny heat shrink tubing which then made it look good afterwards. i also made sure the "soldered" parts are close to the receiver cover and away from the tank as much as possible.
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Old 11-08-2005, 03:58 PM   #1898
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OK. Thanks for the info.
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Old 11-08-2005, 04:15 PM   #1899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgreen
Are you guys just stuffing the servo wires into the side of the gas tank? Thats the only way I can seem to get everything in there right. Also, I was just going to go with a regular on/off switch but now, I think it might be better to have a on/off switch with a charge-in jack. I can not wait to run this car; I just received some spare parts from Nitrohouse minus the side-belt due to being out of stock.
GO HERE FOR SERVO ENDS and make your wire any lenth. You can get the crimping tool from radio shack for around $10.00
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Old 11-08-2005, 07:40 PM   #1900
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I know the difference in materials between Rubber and urethane,but where or what conditions would you use one over the other? I need to order some parts and wanting to know which one. Thanks
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Old 11-09-2005, 01:41 AM   #1901
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Hi Guys

For my own interest sake, does the MTX4 give you a gearing option not ot run over drive? The reason i am asking is the MTX3 is the most popular chassis at my local track, but we run on concrete and have to use rubber tyres.

I am not sure why, but i am told overdrive and rubbers don't go?

Look forward to the replies

BB
Is anyone going to have crack an assist me?

BB
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Old 11-09-2005, 02:05 AM   #1902
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The reason you wouldnt want to run rubbers with an overdrive is tire diameter. Because rubbers are 99% of the time the same diameter.

With foams, you true a split between front and rear tire size. When running overdrive, the front wheels will rotate faster than the rear, so you tru the foams down to suit the rollout. With rubbers you cant do that, so the drive train will be trying to run the fronts faster than the rears, causing drive train stress and scrubbing the tires.
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Old 11-09-2005, 02:15 AM   #1903
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Yes, that is correct, but if you have to run rubber tires, you would need to find the right combination of pully gears to work and probably a new side belt. kind of like when running a 16/19 conversion on the mtx3. If you changed the front inner drive pully to a 19 as well as the side and put a belt on, just a few teeth more, I got a 1:1 drive ratio for the MTX3. You can find belt manufactures online and find the dist. in your area, and they make just about anything you can immage for belts sizes.

If I get a chance today, I will come back to this post with the calculated changes to make the car a 1:1 drive ratio.
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Old 11-09-2005, 02:15 AM   #1904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparksy
The courier dropped off my MTX4 today. So I guess I have to get off my arse and get it built.
Yea, me too . I just got my MTX4 today at my LHS. Funny thing for me is I haven't even started putting together my MRX4 which I got after Labor Day weekend.
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Old 11-09-2005, 05:01 AM   #1905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
Yes, that is correct, but if you have to run rubber tires, you would need to find the right combination of pully gears to work and probably a new side belt. kind of like when running a 16/19 conversion on the mtx3. If you changed the front inner drive pully to a 19 as well as the side and put a belt on, just a few teeth more, I got a 1:1 drive ratio for the MTX3. You can find belt manufactures online and find the dist. in your area, and they make just about anything you can immage for belts sizes.

If I get a chance today, I will come back to this post with the calculated changes to make the car a 1:1 drive ratio.
If a 25t front side pulley can fit then that's what we need. It will also address somewhat the loose side belt issue.
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