99LikesSerpent Cobra GT
11-16-2017, 12:07 PM
#2536
Contacted serpent directly- lack of demand. I would assume eventually the 23 and 24 tooth versions will disappear too. I'll just buy online from a shop with stocks. Found a few.
11-16-2017, 01:29 PM
#2537
11-16-2017, 01:45 PM
#2538
Not discontinued, just a re-designd 2 piece part.
It isn't discontinued and remains an option on the v3.1 car. Who told you that it is discontinued? By the way I used the stock plastic arm for quite a while and never had an issue with it but upgraded to the alu when I built a new 3.0 at the start of last season.
Desoto have them in stock:
https://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/...2&cat=0&page=1
Desoto have them in stock:
https://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/...2&cat=0&page=1
Last edited by petersen114; 06-08-2018 at 03:57 PM.
11-19-2017, 08:41 AM
#2539
Which inserts should I use to set my rear toe in to 2deg?
11-19-2017, 09:01 AM
#2540
11-19-2017, 03:34 PM
#2541
11-20-2017, 09:06 AM
#2542
Anybody tried the Samix carbon radio tray/upper deck? A friend has one and has said he can give it to me. Dunno if it's worth the hassle to set it up or get it right, or if it's not worth my time. I personally thought the original plastic one was pretty decent.
11-20-2017, 09:42 AM
#2543
11-20-2017, 11:15 AM
#2544
Haha!! No money involved with this one. Hand-me-down that he doesn't use.
To me I think with the battery pack or receiver pack being mounted further forwards means less weight in line with the engine. Therefore less balance? I dunno- doesn't seem like something I would need. Unless somebody has noted a performance upgrade from it?
To me I think with the battery pack or receiver pack being mounted further forwards means less weight in line with the engine. Therefore less balance? I dunno- doesn't seem like something I would need. Unless somebody has noted a performance upgrade from it?
11-20-2017, 08:48 PM
#2545
No! The Samix carbon tray messes up the way the chassis flexes and makes the car uneven and only stiff on one side. I have it. Tried it and took it off. Not worth the hassle. Sure it looks good but trust me it isn't a good change. I have a spare new one in the bag if you really want it!
11-22-2017, 08:35 AM
#2546
Hey if anyone is interested in a GT 3.0, I have one for sale, its brand new assembled (never run) with tons of NIP parts. The class just died at my track, concentrating on 1/5 scale and 1/8 scale. My lost your gain. I can also do a ARTR, new motor, pipe/header and servos (all new, never used!)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-0-roller.html
Comes with: (All Parts NIP)
811 kit
Extra sprigs
Extra arms (frt & rear)
Diff Case Spacer (frt & rear)
Sway Bar (2.7 & 3.0)
Optional Disk Brake
Optional Disk Plate
Pinion (23 & 18)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-0-roller.html
Comes with: (All Parts NIP)
811 kit
Extra sprigs
Extra arms (frt & rear)
Diff Case Spacer (frt & rear)
Sway Bar (2.7 & 3.0)
Optional Disk Brake
Optional Disk Plate
Pinion (23 & 18)
11-23-2017, 12:58 AM
#2547
No! The Samix carbon tray messes up the way the chassis flexes and makes the car uneven and only stiff on one side. I have it. Tried it and took it off. Not worth the hassle. Sure it looks good but trust me it isn't a good change. I have a spare new one in the bag if you really want it!
11-23-2017, 01:08 AM
#2548
Rear body support body post distance
Gents,
Does anybody know whether the rear body support, not the standard small one but the wide one, from the IGT8 has exactly the same distance between the body post holes as the Serpent GT?
reason im asking... I have a nice Fina McLaren which I don't want to f**k up with extra holes
Does anybody know whether the rear body support, not the standard small one but the wide one, from the IGT8 has exactly the same distance between the body post holes as the Serpent GT?
reason im asking... I have a nice Fina McLaren which I don't want to f**k up with extra holes
11-23-2017, 01:49 AM
#2549
11-26-2017, 07:55 PM
#2550
Just put some spare diffs in the car, brand new ones, at different cst values for ease of changing from thicker to thinner diff oils. Noticed gears are 'catching' and slightly 'grinding' (not grinding literally but can feel it struggling to get through parts of the rotation). It sounds like too close together the spur and pinion. Too many shims do you think? It's not bad, doesn't sound like anything to raise alarm bells over. I just wanna get it right before I run it with these diffs. Should I race it as is, and give it time to 'break in' or should I remove a shim or two now? It's particularly noticeable when turning wheel hex with my finger (car assembled) but no 2 speed and dog bones attached, hence why I can feel front and rear both doing it. With tyres attached and I turn them it feel like not much at all (I guess more leverage due to wheel size).
What's the best way to adjust or know how tight or loose the spur and pinion are? Especially when diff is new? As for the diffs themselves I filled them to just above the gears and they sound and feel fine. So it's definitely gear mesh or spur and pinion.
What's the best way to adjust or know how tight or loose the spur and pinion are? Especially when diff is new? As for the diffs themselves I filled them to just above the gears and they sound and feel fine. So it's definitely gear mesh or spur and pinion.