dameetz

Thanks dan_vector, what about bodies? Which one is good?

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

I'm a fan of the Sweep GT body. There is a new body out called JZ Flow which looks great and I will be trying it soon. The Protoform GT is quite a long body and I don't particularly like the balance and it is quite a bit slower over the lap that the Sweep.

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

I'd go with the "FLOW" body .... handles really well ... from JZRacing!

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

What's the balance of the flow like compared to the sweep body?

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

The "Flow" offers the same aggressive steering, but rear has molded in enforcement and is a few mm shorter. All JZRacing bodies also come with exhaust deflector and body stiffeners for added tuner-ability. No more rear end flapping for some.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Thanks.

petersen114

Where should I be measuring the font ride height on these cars??? Below the front bumper, or under the front of the chassis.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Under the flat part of the chassis just where the kick up ends.

dameetz

how do you guys remove the pinion gears from the clutch bell? Is there a special tool for it? I m used to centax type clutch and I do have the tools to remove the gears and I dont think it will work with the GT clutch bell.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Yeah it isn't easy! I use the serpent gear wrench (same as centax) and I have made my own bell holder. Basically it is a stepped shaft that sits where the bearings usually go with a hex head bolt through the centre. Tightened down it holds the bell tight enough to remove the gears. To be honest though on the 3.0 I run the stock gears and just change the Spurs if I want to change the ratio. The stock gears are about right.

dameetz

Can you post a pic of your bell holder? Not that I change the pinion frequently to change the ratio but usually in a race I will change to a set of new pinion gears before the final.

Anyway, today I tested for the first time my newly built gt3.0. I encountered 2 problems. The first one is the 1st gear holder oneway bearing slips since the moment I put on the track. I thought i was having a clutch issue, my engine was revving but the car jerked forward on and off. I disassembled the center gear assembly and this lead me to a second problem, it was a PITA just to get the gear assembly out and back in. For me I have to take out the engine and the rear assembly which takes a long time. How do you guys do it the easiest way? I can imagine how long it will take just to change spur gears or adjusting the 2nd gear shifting point. After a few drops of oneway lube the slipping problem went away however I m not convinced that it will hold up in a race. I will need to change it to a new one before the race.

With the stock set up the car was very easy to drive. The only non stock parts that I use was the hard servo saver spring. I was using GRP S3 threaded tyres all around. The only thing that I could want more is a little bit of steering as I felt that the rear end is too planted. I made a few changes tonight, swapping the stock black front spring to whites, shortened the wheelbase by 1 thin spacer and add half a deg of camber on the left side to even the tyre wear as our track is running clockwise at the moment. I hope I m going in the right direction for what I want the car to my liking. If you have any advice on what to do please let me know. Has anyone tried different tyre compound for front and rear?

Overall I m happy with the handling of the car. I hope it can only get better from today's test. Before I forget, the new SL8 XLi really make gear shifting smooth compared to my friend's gt2.0 which sounded like it wants to change to 1st and 2nd back and forth. One more thing, I read though this thread and I come across someone posted about the arm stiffener, where can I get it if its still available?

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Sure, when I get home after work I'll post the photos of the holder. You shouldn't need to change pinions before a final. Spurs I can understand and I change them before a long final but not pinions.

The one way hasn't been an issue for me on any of my cobra GT cars or my 977 as well. A drop of one way has sorted it for you as it was obviously a little bit sticky with manufacturing grease. I'm confident it'll be ok for you now. To remove the gearbox just release the two screws holding the rear brace and then the gearbox will pop right out. No need to take engine etc out! You'll need to guide the brake discs as it comes out and goes back in.

I don't like the balance of the car with different hardness of tyres front to rear. You would be better off finding the steering with setup. You've done right going black rear springs and white front springs. I would go to a 3mm rear roll bar to free up the rear end as well as going to the high rear arm mount (600266) with front insert at 6 and rear 4in. You can also try opt2 ackerman as that'll give more steering as well.

Yes the XLi gearbox is a huge improvement over the larger gearbox! I can't help you with the arm stiffeners I'm afraid as I've never seen them however the idea to stiffen the arms has always been in the back of my mind!

davesglide

iTrader: (29)

To change the shifting point easy u should drill a little hole in your hub so u can get a little Allen wrench in there they messed up they should of put a hole or two like the old one guys at desoto racing recommended that. And for taking the center assy. Out u should only need to take carb.. Off and the complete center with the cases it's easier that way. Move your steering all the way to the right or left so the front cent shaft can b lifted up try it a few times and it works great. Hope this helps u.

petersen114

So basically right where the down stops touch the chassis???

KR145

iTrader: (8)

I usually measure right in front of the arms.