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Old 08-30-2005, 06:11 PM   #1456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
this is so messed up, everytime I tighten the clutch screw the centax locks up.


what am I doing wrong?!


i installed everything according to the book
Sometimes it is a trial and error with shimming a clutch. You could also check if you put shims behind the collet. If you did remove the shim(s). That should free up a little end play. The reason for this is that every manufactures engine's crank are slightly different. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-30-2005, 06:16 PM   #1457
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Finally home. I'll weed through this stuff and see if I can answer some of these questions and tell you what we learned.
For those with clutch hang up issues. The flywheel has changed. If you have the flywheel that has no lip on the back by the engine it appears the edge where the flywheghts spin out is sharp and is hangine the flyweights. we ran into this a few times. we fixed it by running the engine in the car with the flywheel only installed and radiused the outer edge with a small file just a little. If you need to do this be very carefull and wear safety glasses. It only seems to be a problem with the new thick flyweights and the thin clutch shoe setup. Steering links. we had some issues with those to. (the links sliding in on the steering rods in an impact jacking up the toe, ) I had the team guys change over to Xray pivot balls and ball cups on the cars. If you need to run the 18 internal gears step up to the next size flanged bearings on the rear belt tensioner. Thats what Eric did it worked great with no belt issues

As far as performance the car handles fantastic the team just had a tough week, we had some engine issues attributed to bad fuel but we learned that the hard way. we scrapped a lot of qualifiers because of it until it was discovered.

Nick's last qualifier that was fast enough to set him 8th in the A main but the car was DQ'd for being underweight by a couple grams we chaqnged some things that put the car just underweight and we didn't even think about the fact it might put the car underweight. (the fuel I gave him took him out of 4 qualifying rounds) Eric ran good but little bugs and track altercations made it a tough week for him. I had tuning issues all week and changed to another brand of fuel for the mains. Behold my tuning issues went away but to late.

all in all we learned alot and will be addressing issues on the mongoose as we go ahead.

setup: out of the box

Mugen white springs
gear rear diff kit oil
Rear shocks all the way down
front shocks stood up
kit front steering blocks
40/42 tires and 37/42 depending on body
camber rear -4
camber front -1.5
toe 1 out
caster centered
rear toe +2


Overall the car was good but I felt the car would have been better with mugen gray springs and 50 wt oil in the shocks. I saw a little rebound chatter from being over sprung.

D
Check this post from motorman
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Old 08-30-2005, 06:25 PM   #1458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
w
this car is messing with me

I rebuilt the clutch 6 times trying to figure out what was wrong, everytime the clutch would lock up!

then all off a sudden the clutch started no locking up, now it spins freely with like .5mm of play
Are you using the NTC3 flyweights?
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Old 08-30-2005, 07:09 PM   #1459
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Is it standard to run harder shore tires up front ie 42 front 40 rear?
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Old 08-30-2005, 07:26 PM   #1460
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no im using the beat up stock shoes, I have .5mm of play now and it spins freely, I need to order those shoes tomorrow
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Old 08-30-2005, 07:51 PM   #1461
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Uneke what happend to the shop!?
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Old 08-30-2005, 09:15 PM   #1462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnims29
Is it standard to run harder shore tires up front ie 42 front 40 rear?
Depends on track conditions. Sometimes when I race on a high bite track I use 45 front & 42 rear, or 42 all around, and sometimes on a medium bite track I run 40 front & 42 rear. Sounds but you need to run what feels good for you that day, next day can be different
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Old 08-30-2005, 09:32 PM   #1463
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hey I changed my flywheel collet and it came me alot more clearance.


could the smaller flywheel collet be what gave me more clutch bell play?
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Old 08-31-2005, 01:55 AM   #1464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
hey I changed my flywheel collet and it came me alot more clearance.


could the smaller flywheel collet be what gave me more clutch bell play?
Yes, becasue the smaller collet puts the flywheel closer to the crankcase of the engine. Thus, exposing more of the crankshaft through the clutch assembly. Then shim the clutch to get the desired amount of end-play.
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Old 09-01-2005, 02:28 PM   #1465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnims29
Is it standard to run harder shore tires up front ie 42 front 40 rear?
That depends a lot of variables.

-Track temp
-car setup
-track surface
-traction level
-etc...

This is how it breaks down for me on our asphalt parking lot sprayed with high sugar soda.

-Spring-cool weather- 40 shore frt/37 shore Rr
-Early Summer-warm weather-40 shore frt/40 shore Rr
-Mid/Late Summer-VERY hot weather-42 shore frt/40 shore Rr
-Early fall-warm/cool weather- 40 shore frt/37 shore Rr

The best thing to do is check and see what the fastest guys are running. Its usually a good starting point.
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Old 09-01-2005, 02:38 PM   #1466
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With the issues I was having with my front universal, I forgot to mention what a great day (up to my incident in the main) that I was having with my new Mongoose.

Simply put, it was the best nitro run I've had in the past two seasons. Qualifying 3rd in the A and running in second until my crash. The car was nimble, turned well and very tough.

-No tank issues
I had no leakage problems and no run time problems. I ended up with a little under half a tank left after every run.

-No clutch issues
The kit clutch and spring worked well for our track. No shoe hang ups or other issues.

-No steering issues
I had no problem at all with the kit steering set up. When I bent my front universal axle, the car went from full speed to a dead stop impact on my left side front tire. Only issue I could see with the steering was that despite the servo saver, the servo horn did apparently jump one spline, which required me to pull the horn and straighten things back out. But thats about it. No permanent damage.

All in all I'm very impressed with the car and don't see anything that makes those other cars worth $400+ while this one is a huge bargin at $199.

My local shop is bringing in some parts for me, so I should be well stocked and ready to finish out the last few races this year and go into next year.

VERY nice car!
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Old 09-01-2005, 04:19 PM   #1467
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Thanks Darkseid, i wasn't sure what shore to run.
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Old 09-01-2005, 10:31 PM   #1468
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UFO Clutch

Do you guys have any advice about the UFO Clutch? I just got one today and its gonna have a trial by fire this weekend at a trophy race.
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Old 09-02-2005, 07:09 AM   #1469
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uneke
Do you guys have any advice about the UFO Clutch? I just got one today and its gonna have a trial by fire this weekend at a trophy race.
Orange spring with about 1 thread exposed and .5 mm gap.
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Old 09-02-2005, 01:40 PM   #1470
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hey I run the red spring with no brass weights in the shoes how much should I tighen the spring?

I have it at .5mm with about 1 or 2 threads showing, and it engages sorta early.

should I go to like 3 or 4?
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