v one rrr VS fw-o5r
10-23-2004, 02:02 AM
#16
I really havent tried any real subjective testing where I compare heat times with different setups. What you think feels faster is actually no change in lap times.
Its a bit difficult as we only get to time the cars during heats on race days. I think I'll get one of those personnel timers
Cheers
Its a bit difficult as we only get to time the cars during heats on race days. I think I'll get one of those personnel timers
Cheers
10-23-2004, 02:16 AM
#17
Originally posted by ziggy12345
I really havent tried any real subjective testing where I compare heat times with different setups. What you think feels faster is actually no change in lap times.
Its a bit difficult as we only get to time the cars during heats on race days. I think I'll get one of those personnel timers
Cheers
I really havent tried any real subjective testing where I compare heat times with different setups. What you think feels faster is actually no change in lap times.
Its a bit difficult as we only get to time the cars during heats on race days. I think I'll get one of those personnel timers
Cheers
I have gone to test days on my own and thought the car was absolute pants, only to find it was working so well I was actually overdriving it, so when the others hit the track I could walk all over them.
10-23-2004, 03:51 AM
#18
V1RRR or FW05R?
MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE: I have problem out-sprinting the stock v-oneRRR/SIRIO Engine with my V-ONE RR Evolution/Novarossi though both handles great specially in the corners.
10-23-2004, 10:38 AM
#19
The car was slower at first but after some tweaking to the setup it was as fast and easier to drive. You need to toe out the front wheels with the spool in the front.
10-23-2004, 11:37 AM
#20
Originally posted by Racing4Evo
The car was slower at first but after some tweaking to the setup it was as fast and easier to drive. You need to toe out the front wheels with the spool in the front.
The car was slower at first but after some tweaking to the setup it was as fast and easier to drive. You need to toe out the front wheels with the spool in the front.
You say toe-out, I thought that was the only way to set up a car, always toe-out, never toe-in.
10-23-2004, 12:04 PM
#21
Originally posted by NiMo
... so when the others hit the track I could walk all over them.
... so when the others hit the track I could walk all over them.
10-23-2004, 02:57 PM
#22
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
10-23-2004, 07:40 PM
#23
I was using 0 deg toe in the front with the oneway then changed to +2 with the front spool.
11-19-2004, 12:53 AM
#24
this thread was just what i was looking for.
so if the fw had better suspension geometry would you rrr owners choose it over the fw?
i don't mind spending $$$ to make the fw better. i just don't want it to hit peak performance that can never match the rrr out of the box.
if that's the case, i would go with the rrr.
thanks.
so if the fw had better suspension geometry would you rrr owners choose it over the fw?
i don't mind spending $$$ to make the fw better. i just don't want it to hit peak performance that can never match the rrr out of the box.
if that's the case, i would go with the rrr.
thanks.
11-19-2004, 01:17 AM
#25
Originally posted by franknitty69
this thread was just what i was looking for.
so if the fw had better suspension geometry would you rrr owners choose it over the fw?
i don't mind spending $$$ to make the fw better. i just don't want it to hit peak performance that can never match the rrr out of the box.
if that's the case, i would go with the rrr.
thanks.
this thread was just what i was looking for.
so if the fw had better suspension geometry would you rrr owners choose it over the fw?
i don't mind spending $$$ to make the fw better. i just don't want it to hit peak performance that can never match the rrr out of the box.
if that's the case, i would go with the rrr.
thanks.
The CofG on the RRR is much further forward
Cheers
11-19-2004, 05:07 AM
#26
I have not had drive train failure since building the ZT version of the FW. No stripped belts or pulleys, some of the tracks we race on have lots of belt shredding rocks. On the tighter tracks I turn inside most of the other cars. I lap faster with this car than I did with the MTX and until a RRR whoops me I'll stick with the shafty.
11-19-2004, 05:18 AM
#27
Originally posted by rjl
I have not had drive train failure since building the ZT version of the FW. No stripped belts or pulleys, some of the tracks we race on have lots of belt shredding rocks. On the tighter tracks I turn inside most of the other cars. I lap faster with this car than I did with the MTX and until a RRR whoops me I'll stick with the shafty.
I have not had drive train failure since building the ZT version of the FW. No stripped belts or pulleys, some of the tracks we race on have lots of belt shredding rocks. On the tighter tracks I turn inside most of the other cars. I lap faster with this car than I did with the MTX and until a RRR whoops me I'll stick with the shafty.
Cheers
11-19-2004, 05:33 AM
#28
Originally posted by rjl
I have not had drive train failure since building the ZT version of the FW. No stripped belts or pulleys, some of the tracks we race on have lots of belt shredding rocks. On the tighter tracks I turn inside most of the other cars. I lap faster with this car than I did with the MTX and until a RRR whoops me I'll stick with the shafty.
I have not had drive train failure since building the ZT version of the FW. No stripped belts or pulleys, some of the tracks we race on have lots of belt shredding rocks. On the tighter tracks I turn inside most of the other cars. I lap faster with this car than I did with the MTX and until a RRR whoops me I'll stick with the shafty.
11-19-2004, 07:27 AM
#29
I really only run the one way.
The ZT-1 is nice but not really necessary. I do think that the center conversion is pretty well indispensible, the overdrive with less than 2mm tyre split really got the car dialled.
The ZT-1 is nice but not really necessary. I do think that the center conversion is pretty well indispensible, the overdrive with less than 2mm tyre split really got the car dialled.
11-19-2004, 01:49 PM
#30
Originally posted by rjl
I really only run the one way.
The ZT-1 is nice but not really necessary. I do think that the center conversion is pretty well indispensible, the overdrive with less than 2mm tyre split really got the car dialled.
I really only run the one way.
The ZT-1 is nice but not really necessary. I do think that the center conversion is pretty well indispensible, the overdrive with less than 2mm tyre split really got the car dialled.
Cheers