Please helo setting 2 speed tanny on Yokomo GT4 RTR
#16
Tech Regular
i forgot how old the yokomo car was, i remember this type of 2 speed, does it have a roll pin inside the 2 speed gear housing?
anyways the idea of setting is still the same, just install the way the manual says, i would set the adjuster screw so the leg throws out relatively easy and start from there, if you dont have a ball park setting 2 speeds can be a bit of a pain in the arse because they have quite a small window of adjustment when working.
unless theres anyone running a yokomo with a setting on here its gona be trial and error im affraid
anyways the idea of setting is still the same, just install the way the manual says, i would set the adjuster screw so the leg throws out relatively easy and start from there, if you dont have a ball park setting 2 speeds can be a bit of a pain in the arse because they have quite a small window of adjustment when working.
unless theres anyone running a yokomo with a setting on here its gona be trial and error im affraid
#17
i forgot how old the yokomo car was, i remember this type of 2 speed, does it have a roll pin inside the 2 speed gear housing?
anyways the idea of setting is still the same, just install the way the manual says, i would set the adjuster screw so the leg throws out relatively easy and start from there, if you dont have a ball park setting 2 speeds can be a bit of a pain in the arse because they have quite a small window of adjustment when working.
unless theres anyone running a yokomo with a setting on here its gona be trial and error im affraid
anyways the idea of setting is still the same, just install the way the manual says, i would set the adjuster screw so the leg throws out relatively easy and start from there, if you dont have a ball park setting 2 speeds can be a bit of a pain in the arse because they have quite a small window of adjustment when working.
unless theres anyone running a yokomo with a setting on here its gona be trial and error im affraid
#18
Tech Adept
ah shit, i think this clutch is not friction based.
the clutch bell has a pin in its circumference.
by looking at the manual and reading your previous posts carefully i think i finally get it.
your clutch has a little pin the sticks out from the rotation. the pin on the clutch has a little ( shaped claw that grabs onto the pin on the clutch bell and the 2nd gear engages.
So as you said, since the clutch bell spins clockwise when the ( pin sticks up it would not grab the horizontal pin of the clutch bell in its hollow side but rather it would hit it with its curved side.
So you are saying that if you install the clutch the other way around then it will grab the clutch bell pin inside the its curvature since the clutch claw will now face ) <---- left
However, I got a feeling that the claw is designed with the curvature like this so that it may slip when the claw retracts. If you place it the way you think then there will be no way for the claw to slip and will remain engaged forever unless you roll the car backwards.
So effectively, what the claw is really made for, is to provide some slippage and not provide a locking joint with the bell pin.
So to answer your question: do it as the manufacturer says. The claw must face (
Ah shit, i was beaten to it
the clutch bell has a pin in its circumference.
by looking at the manual and reading your previous posts carefully i think i finally get it.
your clutch has a little pin the sticks out from the rotation. the pin on the clutch has a little ( shaped claw that grabs onto the pin on the clutch bell and the 2nd gear engages.
So as you said, since the clutch bell spins clockwise when the ( pin sticks up it would not grab the horizontal pin of the clutch bell in its hollow side but rather it would hit it with its curved side.
So you are saying that if you install the clutch the other way around then it will grab the clutch bell pin inside the its curvature since the clutch claw will now face ) <---- left
However, I got a feeling that the claw is designed with the curvature like this so that it may slip when the claw retracts. If you place it the way you think then there will be no way for the claw to slip and will remain engaged forever unless you roll the car backwards.
So effectively, what the claw is really made for, is to provide some slippage and not provide a locking joint with the bell pin.
So to answer your question: do it as the manufacturer says. The claw must face (
Ah shit, i was beaten to it
#19
Tech Regular
Yes, they don't engage smoothly like the 2 shoe system used now
#20
Tech Adept
haha, i was at a disadvantage. i had never seen this system before so I had to figure it out from the replies and the manual photos
cool system though, i will admit. kinda complicated. it makes my wonder why they didn't go for a friction based clutch.
cool system though, i will admit. kinda complicated. it makes my wonder why they didn't go for a friction based clutch.
#21
Should the throttle trim on the radio be set to the middle so i can back off or add depending? like the steering?
I am getting my balls busted setting this brake linkage in relation to the throttle linkage since both linkages are attached to the same servo horn and working on the same servo.I am trying to adjust them just right so that the brakes work properly and the throttle arm the engine does not get yanked too much.
What i have been trying to do is set the servo position and the linkages so that my servo does not yank over to one side or the other under operation.
What i have found is that my upper deck on my car moves and lifts slightly under operation either the throttle being moved or the brake being activated...now i have set the servo horn position and the linkages so the servo body no longer moves when the throttle is pulled on the controller......but have noticed that the upper deck moves a tiny bit when the brakes are apllied it seems that i can not get rid of this if i try to set the linkage so the servo does not move when the brakes are pulled then the servo or the upper deck...or both will move when the throttle is pulled....lol...is this ok or normal....if i had a better radio i could set the expo or servo motion either way.
I am getting my balls busted setting this brake linkage in relation to the throttle linkage since both linkages are attached to the same servo horn and working on the same servo.I am trying to adjust them just right so that the brakes work properly and the throttle arm the engine does not get yanked too much.
What i have been trying to do is set the servo position and the linkages so that my servo does not yank over to one side or the other under operation.
What i have found is that my upper deck on my car moves and lifts slightly under operation either the throttle being moved or the brake being activated...now i have set the servo horn position and the linkages so the servo body no longer moves when the throttle is pulled on the controller......but have noticed that the upper deck moves a tiny bit when the brakes are apllied it seems that i can not get rid of this if i try to set the linkage so the servo does not move when the brakes are pulled then the servo or the upper deck...or both will move when the throttle is pulled....lol...is this ok or normal....if i had a better radio i could set the expo or servo motion either way.