I am planning to Break in my MT12, Give me some tips
02-19-2002, 10:37 PM
#1
I am planning to Break in my MT12, Give me some tips
Hey all, It's time to finnally break in to my MTX-2. I am tired of waiting till summer, the weather looks good so far, I don't think it's gonna rain. How many turn should the high speed needle be? I want to make sure it is set right for the break in. Also how many turn is the low speed? After I break it in, What you guys think I should have both needle at? Will a AE Pipe(the one the comes with RC10gt) work with the mt12? Thanks, I never broken in a 1+ hp engine. I don't want to screw anything over. Any tips will work.
02-19-2002, 10:40 PM
#2
Also, the brake feels a lil dragy, Matt told me it should fill a lil big draggy for the 1st couple of runs. I want to make sure it is normal. Thanks
02-20-2002, 07:42 AM
#3
Re: I am planning to Break in my MT12, Give me some tips
Originally posted by Team_Akina_1
Hey all, It's time to finnally break in to my MTX-2. I am tired of waiting till summer, the weather looks good so far, I don't think it's gonna rain. How many turn should the high speed needle be? I want to make sure it is set right for the break in. Also how many turn is the low speed? After I break it in, What you guys think I should have both needle at? Will a AE Pipe(the one the comes with RC10gt) work with the mt12? Thanks, I never broken in a 1+ hp engine. I don't want to screw anything over. Any tips will work.
Hey all, It's time to finnally break in to my MTX-2. I am tired of waiting till summer, the weather looks good so far, I don't think it's gonna rain. How many turn should the high speed needle be? I want to make sure it is set right for the break in. Also how many turn is the low speed? After I break it in, What you guys think I should have both needle at? Will a AE Pipe(the one the comes with RC10gt) work with the mt12? Thanks, I never broken in a 1+ hp engine. I don't want to screw anything over. Any tips will work.
02-20-2002, 10:28 PM
#4
Thanks, umm does the AE pipe works with the engine? Also what you have ur mt12 set at? I know it got to be over 4 turn for high speed. Thanks
02-21-2002, 11:30 AM
#5
Team_Akina_1
As adelmundo said, there's no magic setting to tune the engine. You just have to listen to the way it's running and check the temperature to set it right. You will also make changes to the high speed needle each time you race. Here's how I tune multi-needle carbs (based on the info from Paris webpage.)
1. Get the thing running with the factory needle settings. You might need to increase the idle slightly to get it to stay running, since it will be really rich. Once it's running, let 4 complete tanks run through it. I usually let it die after each tank, move the piston to the middle of the stroke and let it cool down before running the next tank through.
2. Once you have 4 tanks through, start tuning. The first needle to start with is the low speed needle. This is the one that is in the middle of the slide. It is black! Don't touch any brass needles yet! What you need to do is get the idle mixture set. This is a little tricky until you know the sounds to listen for. What you are going to do is get the engine running and warm it up a bit by blipping the throttle for a minute or so. Then pinch off the fuel line right where it attaches to the carb. You should hear the engine idle increase before it dies. This means it's too rich. As you lean out the mixture, the amount of time that it stays reved high will shorten. You should lean the low-end needle 1/12 of a turn at a time, since it's very sensitive. Each time you adjust it, blip the throttle a few times to clear old mixture from the crankcase. There will come a point where the engine barely increases speed at all when you pinch. Once you reach that point, richen it up 1/12 of a turn and you should be very close.
3. Don't mess with the brass needle on the end of the carb opposite the slide. It's the spray bar adjustment and should be left at the factory setting (flush with the carb housing) unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing.
4. Now, adjust the idle. You should have your idle set as high as it needs to be to run smoothly. Just listen to it and adjust it until it runs smoothly. Don't worry if the clutch is engaging. You can adjust that later.
5. At this point, the car should be fairly close to being tuned and it should make it around the track without dying. Run a few laps at "race speed" to get it warmed up. I usually try to go at least 2 laps. Once it's warmed up, richen the high speed needle 1/4 turn until it starts bogging down. You'll hear it sound almost like it's gurgling and it won't be very fast. You want to lean it out 1/8 turn at a time until it starts going fast, running a lap or two between adjustments. You will reach a point where it doesn't go any faster. It will probably be too lean at this point, so you should richen it up 1/8 to 1/4 turn. You should always see lots of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. Race temperature should be around 270 degrees F. It helps to have a temp gun. You will probably have to retune the low end needle slightly now that you can get the engine up to race temp. I find that, once the low end needle is set, I don't have to change it.
I hope this helps. There really is no magic setting to get it tuned. As far as pipes go, any pipe will work on any engine. Some work better than others. They are called "tuned pipes" because they are designed to work with a particular size engine. As long as you get a pipe that's designed for a .12 engine, it should give you good performance. I prefer the RB X12 or X15 one piece pipes. Good luck!
Man! That was a lot of typing...
As adelmundo said, there's no magic setting to tune the engine. You just have to listen to the way it's running and check the temperature to set it right. You will also make changes to the high speed needle each time you race. Here's how I tune multi-needle carbs (based on the info from Paris webpage.)
1. Get the thing running with the factory needle settings. You might need to increase the idle slightly to get it to stay running, since it will be really rich. Once it's running, let 4 complete tanks run through it. I usually let it die after each tank, move the piston to the middle of the stroke and let it cool down before running the next tank through.
2. Once you have 4 tanks through, start tuning. The first needle to start with is the low speed needle. This is the one that is in the middle of the slide. It is black! Don't touch any brass needles yet! What you need to do is get the idle mixture set. This is a little tricky until you know the sounds to listen for. What you are going to do is get the engine running and warm it up a bit by blipping the throttle for a minute or so. Then pinch off the fuel line right where it attaches to the carb. You should hear the engine idle increase before it dies. This means it's too rich. As you lean out the mixture, the amount of time that it stays reved high will shorten. You should lean the low-end needle 1/12 of a turn at a time, since it's very sensitive. Each time you adjust it, blip the throttle a few times to clear old mixture from the crankcase. There will come a point where the engine barely increases speed at all when you pinch. Once you reach that point, richen it up 1/12 of a turn and you should be very close.
3. Don't mess with the brass needle on the end of the carb opposite the slide. It's the spray bar adjustment and should be left at the factory setting (flush with the carb housing) unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing.
4. Now, adjust the idle. You should have your idle set as high as it needs to be to run smoothly. Just listen to it and adjust it until it runs smoothly. Don't worry if the clutch is engaging. You can adjust that later.
5. At this point, the car should be fairly close to being tuned and it should make it around the track without dying. Run a few laps at "race speed" to get it warmed up. I usually try to go at least 2 laps. Once it's warmed up, richen the high speed needle 1/4 turn until it starts bogging down. You'll hear it sound almost like it's gurgling and it won't be very fast. You want to lean it out 1/8 turn at a time until it starts going fast, running a lap or two between adjustments. You will reach a point where it doesn't go any faster. It will probably be too lean at this point, so you should richen it up 1/8 to 1/4 turn. You should always see lots of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. Race temperature should be around 270 degrees F. It helps to have a temp gun. You will probably have to retune the low end needle slightly now that you can get the engine up to race temp. I find that, once the low end needle is set, I don't have to change it.
I hope this helps. There really is no magic setting to get it tuned. As far as pipes go, any pipe will work on any engine. Some work better than others. They are called "tuned pipes" because they are designed to work with a particular size engine. As long as you get a pipe that's designed for a .12 engine, it should give you good performance. I prefer the RB X12 or X15 one piece pipes. Good luck!
Man! That was a lot of typing...
02-21-2002, 02:06 PM
#7
Re: 270!!??
Doh! Sorry! I fat fingered that one. I meant to say 240 degrees! Don't run it at 270 or it won't last as long.
02-21-2002, 09:57 PM
#8
Hey, thanks for the tips. I got a temp gun, so i will take the temp during the break in. I have break in some engine before, but not anything like this one. Will, going to start it tomorrow. Thanks
03-02-2002, 04:08 PM
#9
Ok, I just broken it in so far with 3 tanks through. I adjust the needle 1/12 turn in after every tank. I know the engine is not fully broken in yet, but I got to help my dad during the break in, so i just put the piston in middle of the stroke, turn off everything and etc. and leave it alone for right now. I am about to go another 3 tanks, and I will try to take it ez on the 7 tank(Full thottle). On the 3rd tank of fuel, the engine started to rev a lil higher tank usual. The first 2 tank, the temp was below 200 F. on the 3rd tank, the engine was running below 200, after it past the half of tank, the engine got a bit high. The temp was slowly climing up to 240 F. So I turn off the engine. I have not mess with the Low speed yet, I don't know much about it, like how you adjust the setting and stuff. I just let the car idle in all the tank so far, I was about to do some laps with it on the 4th(coming up next). Let me know something about the low speed, a lil more info will help. Thanks
03-03-2002, 12:12 AM
#10
The low end typically is "set" at the factory, so I usuallt leave it alone... 2 website you may want to do some reading from:
http://www.parisracing.com/
http://www.ofna.com/new/index.html
both of these sites have a bunch of information to read up on...
Also a while back Car ACtoin (or was it Nirto) ran an article on breaking in an Engine.... if you can find a copy of that issue that one has some good reading also.
I woukd say that by the 6 or 7th tank you sgould be fine... One of my buddies i still old school... Break in an engine slow the engine will run slow, break it in fast and the engine will be fast... SOOOOO far all of his engines are really fast! and they run cool also...
So just be sure that when you run ro pay attention to the way the car "feels" and LISTEN to the car, if anything is going wrond many times it's the percieved "feel" and the sound that will tell you things are not good... (OH YA) dont forget about the temp also....
Rich
http://www.parisracing.com/
http://www.ofna.com/new/index.html
both of these sites have a bunch of information to read up on...
Also a while back Car ACtoin (or was it Nirto) ran an article on breaking in an Engine.... if you can find a copy of that issue that one has some good reading also.
I woukd say that by the 6 or 7th tank you sgould be fine... One of my buddies i still old school... Break in an engine slow the engine will run slow, break it in fast and the engine will be fast... SOOOOO far all of his engines are really fast! and they run cool also...
So just be sure that when you run ro pay attention to the way the car "feels" and LISTEN to the car, if anything is going wrond many times it's the percieved "feel" and the sound that will tell you things are not good... (OH YA) dont forget about the temp also....
Rich
03-03-2002, 03:15 AM
#11
I complete 3 whole tanks. I was gonna do the 4th one, running the car. I put the car on the floor after starting it, let it idle till it warm up a bit. Then i push on the thottle. The car rev up accordingly on how much thottle i put on it. The car rev very loud, not even half of a thottle sound like it's full thottle. The car then slowly move. After it move a lil roll, the car die. I was wondering what was wrong. It sound like it's struggling to move. I am wondering if I mess up the high speed needle, or is it out of tune. I did turn the low speed in 1/12 turn in to lean it a bit, but i turn it back to normal after that. Please let me know what is wrong. try pushing the thottle a lil, but in a fast way, the car will die when i do. So i slowly rev it up. Then it sound very loud and after the wheel move. The car will then die. The temp so far reach to 230 F. I only cut off the engien when it goes over 240 F. let me know asap. Thanks
03-03-2002, 03:33 AM
#12
Too rich!! it is fairly standard...the engine sounds as if it is "bubbling/burping" right?...just keep turning the low speed needle in a little by little....you will get there in the end. What is your high speed needle set at.....for this stage in the game try not to go less than 4 four turns from full in...I normally run my NR engine with high speed at 4 turns.
How are you measuring the temp...with an MIP on board gauge??? 240 sounds high for run it.....unless you have MIP gauge because they are not that accurate!
How are you measuring the temp...with an MIP on board gauge??? 240 sounds high for run it.....unless you have MIP gauge because they are not that accurate!
03-03-2002, 03:36 AM
#13
Also are you letting the engine idle for a while before you apply throttle...if you are then the mixture in the crankcase will become over rich, so when you apply throttle the engine will die! try short quick 'blips' on the throttle first to clear the crankcase mixture!
03-03-2002, 10:27 AM
#14
I use a Raytek mini temp gun. I measure it direcly on top of the head. I know the mip was not accuate, thats why I did buy it. I Guss I will lean it out a lil by lil. You think I should just turn the needle alll the way in and open it over 4 turn? It's aready 3 tanks through on idle. I use blue thunder race formula 20%, in case you guys wanted to know. Let me know what you guys think I should do. Thanks for the help DTM
03-03-2002, 10:09 PM
#15
3 tanks is still a little early to lean to 4 turns...try 4.5 to 5 turns first.....adjust the low speed needle until you can get the car to move. Temp will drop a little once you get some air blowing thro the head to cool it. You will need to keep blipping the throttle at this stage to get the engine to rev don't expect to be able to press and hold throttle half way.....the engine will normally bog down and die!
You are not using centax clutch are you??
The temp should be measured where the glow plug is, not top of the head.
You are not using centax clutch are you??
The temp should be measured where the glow plug is, not top of the head.