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Old 03-01-2012, 04:21 AM   #4081
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Originally Posted by adds033 View Post
I will get the young fella an EP car, but its Nitro Kyosho V ONE for daddy! Had a good run out of the MP7.5 buggies, so kinda got a thing for Kyosho!
But the 733 is good value on Ebay! Pretty keen on joining Wcrcmcc. Happy steering EEL!
Good stuff adds
Make sure you can get parts for the Kyosho. I've heard they have problems with parts availability in Oz
With Serpent, parts are VERY easy to get FAST
I've been meaning to get out to WCRCMCC for a run. Must do it one of these days
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:30 PM   #4082
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Good stuff adds
Make sure you can get parts for the Kyosho. I've heard they have problems with parts availability in Oz
With Serpent, parts are VERY easy to get FAST
I've been meaning to get out to WCRCMCC for a run. Must do it one of these days
There seems to be be plenty of parts on Ebay for the RRR, not so much for the R4 tho. Rc Mushroom have got a good deal on the 733 and engine combo for a bout 500 AU! What you think about that?
adds.
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:32 PM   #4083
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There seems to be be plenty of parts on Ebay for the RRR, not so much for the R4 tho. Rc Mushroom have got a good deal on the 733 and engine combo for a bout 500 AU! What you think about that?
adds.
$500AU is an amazing price for a car & engine. I think you'll find they're outta stock. Everyone's clearing stock for the 747
Walter RC are outta stock of the 733TE as well, but the 747 is due for release in a month or two. It's on their site already, but no price yet
http://www.walterrchobby.com.au/inde...-car-1992.html
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Old 03-14-2012, 01:33 AM   #4084
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Has anyone else noticed the pitch of the Serpent 1st gear pinion doesn't match the SL6 spurs?
I'm pretty positive (after spending the weekend driving a Shepherd supplied by Shepherd RC Australia) because the 733 stripped all my spurs, that the reason is the pinion gear pitch
I'm going back to running a Zeppin pinion (hopefully this weekend) as the pitch matches the spur and see how I go
Fingers crossed
I spent 1.5 days trying everything under the sun only to notice on closer insection that the pinions are wrong
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:48 AM   #4085
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Originally Posted by EEL Monster View Post
Has anyone else noticed the pitch of the Serpent 1st gear pinion doesn't match the SL6 spurs?
I'm pretty positive (after spending the weekend driving a Shepherd supplied by Shepherd RC Australia) because the 733 stripped all my spurs, that the reason is the pinion gear pitch
I'm going back to running a Zeppin pinion (hopefully this weekend) as the pitch matches the spur and see how I go
Fingers crossed
I spent 1.5 days trying everything under the sun only to notice on closer insection that the pinions are wrong
Never notice that, but to be honest; I've never looked. I'll look at my pinions and spurs tonight.
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:06 PM   #4086
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Not sure what your dealing with but my pinions and spur match up pretty good with about 60% tooth engagement with no gear chatter.
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Old 03-15-2012, 03:55 AM   #4087
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Possibly it's a part number issue in the manual, but the 16T genuine Serpent pinion that is listed in the manual is different enough to the SL6 spur in my opinion to wear the spur until it heats up both the gears and the 1way until it strips
A mate who is "super fast" and knows his stuff pointed it out to me the profile of the teeth isn't like other brands
When I checked a Zeppin pinion I had, it is different
I then noticed with my pinion removal tool, the Serpent 1st has a seperate tool with 16/17/18 instead of the normal one with 15/16/17/18
I compared the gears and the tool shape and have concluded that the Serpent pinions are different for 1st gear then other brands
This is seemingly wearing the gear which generates tremendous heat
Keep in mind it's pretty hot down here in Oz so the heat may have something to do with it too
All I know is, what I'm looking at will (when meshed right and pushed hard) wear the gear
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Old 03-15-2012, 06:46 AM   #4088
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Originally Posted by EEL Monster View Post
Possibly it's a part number issue in the manual, but the 16T genuine Serpent pinion that is listed in the manual is different enough to the SL6 spur in my opinion to wear the spur until it heats up both the gears and the 1way until it strips
A mate who is "super fast" and knows his stuff pointed it out to me the profile of the teeth isn't like other brands
When I checked a Zeppin pinion I had, it is different
I then noticed with my pinion removal tool, the Serpent 1st has a seperate tool with 16/17/18 instead of the normal one with 15/16/17/18
I compared the gears and the tool shape and have concluded that the Serpent pinions are different for 1st gear then other brands
This is seemingly wearing the gear which generates tremendous heat
Keep in mind it's pretty hot down here in Oz so the heat may have something to do with it too
All I know is, what I'm looking at will (when meshed right and pushed hard) wear the gear
What spur's and Pinions are you using??
I was running 17/22 pinion and 60/54 spur i was striping gears.
Resolve i changed the gear ratios closer 60/55 and this stopped the gears from striping. The one way is a little weird it needs constant maintenance ie- cleaned out every run and ill now replace before a big final!!!!!
i also change my 1st gear spur before every final now just to make sure as the 1st gear dose wear allot but it is from the one way grabbing and not releasing quick enough. thats my findings any way.

I checked my pinions and spurs they line up perfect.
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:13 AM   #4089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EEL Monster View Post
Possibly it's a part number issue in the manual, but the 16T genuine Serpent pinion that is listed in the manual is different enough to the SL6 spur in my opinion to wear the spur until it heats up both the gears and the 1way until it strips
A mate who is "super fast" and knows his stuff pointed it out to me the profile of the teeth isn't like other brands
When I checked a Zeppin pinion I had, it is different
I then noticed with my pinion removal tool, the Serpent 1st has a seperate tool with 16/17/18 instead of the normal one with 15/16/17/18
I compared the gears and the tool shape and have concluded that the Serpent pinions are different for 1st gear then other brands
This is seemingly wearing the gear which generates tremendous heat
Keep in mind it's pretty hot down here in Oz so the heat may have something to do with it too
All I know is, what I'm looking at will (when meshed right and pushed hard) wear the gear
I've always stayed away from the Serpent 16 tooth pinion. I use the 17 tooth. I've heard bad things about the Serpent 16t pinion. I do have one; but have never used it. I'll have a closer look at the 16t pinion tonight
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:43 AM   #4090
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Hi!

I was reading stories about gears and before race I check it 2x!

In my TE set is:
1st: 17 + 60 = 77
2nd: 22 + 54 = 76

so it will strip gears ... because it is wrong

it should be like this:
1st: 17 + 59 = 76
2nd: 22 + 54 = 76

or:
1st: 17 + 60 = 77
2nd: 22 + 55 = 77

Just guys count T and see if 1st = 2nd, then all problems should go away.

I switch from RRR and this method (it is simple from mechanical school) always works, suma of tooth each gear should be eq if is same module for each gear.

Ofcourse there should be option for modified gear but I do not see it in serpents p/n. It mean, same diameter for spur but modified tooth.

But ... I look to my serpent and I really miss my RRR ...

Regards!
m

ps: anyone has 3rd hole in clutch bell housing 803231 badly done?
I mean 1st and 2nd are fine, 3rd one is in wrong place, bad drilled ...
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:25 AM   #4091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi!

I was reading stories about gears and before race I check it 2x!

In my TE set is:
1st: 17 + 60 = 77
2nd: 22 + 54 = 76

so it will strip gears ... because it is wrong

it should be like this:
1st: 17 + 59 = 76
2nd: 22 + 54 = 76

or:
1st: 17 + 60 = 77
2nd: 22 + 55 = 77

Just guys count T and see if 1st = 2nd, then all problems should go away.

I switch from RRR and this method (it is simple from mechanical school) always works, suma of tooth each gear should be eq if is same module for each gear.

Ofcourse there should be option for modified gear but I do not see it in serpents p/n. It mean, same diameter for spur but modified tooth.

But ... I look to my serpent and I really miss my RRR ...

Regards!
m

ps: anyone has 3rd hole in clutch bell housing 803231 badly done?
I mean 1st and 2nd are fine, 3rd one is in wrong place, bad drilled ...
I used to follow that ratio with my Mtx4r not so much with my 733. but I do try to keep it within 1 tooth count.

I'm starting the season with 17/60 and 23/55. It all depends on my engine and track layout.

Pass you soon...
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Old 03-15-2012, 06:15 PM   #4092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
I used to follow that ratio with my Mtx4r not so much with my 733. but I do try to keep it within 1 tooth count.

I'm starting the season with 17/60 and 23/55. It all depends on my engine and track layout.

Pass you soon...
Ok.

Waiting for your 1st ride.
If it not fail, just share info.

I will do on my S733 like old man ;-)
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Old 03-15-2012, 06:48 PM   #4093
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HI,

I have some questions for foam tires.

I normally use F37 and R40 with default setup, but I notice that there were some

under steer issue. So I have ordered 3 sets of Xceed F35 and R40 from a-

main and have noticed over steer issue now. Is better to remain F37 and

change diff oil and springs? Please tell me your experiences with F35 and F37

....

Thank you
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:04 AM   #4094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jae Racer View Post
HI,

I have some questions for foam tires.

I normally use F37 and R40 with default setup, but I notice that there were some

under steer issue. So I have ordered 3 sets of Xceed F35 and R40 from a-

main and have noticed over steer issue now. Is better to remain F37 and

change diff oil and springs? Please tell me your experiences with F35 and F37

....

Thank you

Front 35 and Rear 40 is just a little too far

Put 35 at front and 37 at rear, it will add some grip to rear and car should be better.

I do not have big experience (still learn) but tires good work when they just one step harder, for example: 35/37, 37/40, 40/42 (Front/Rear).

If on 35/37 car will be overster 1st step is remove some drop at front, car
will transfer less weight to front at breaking and cornering so it reduce oversteer.

Then play with more things, like oil, springs whatever best driver do on similar set of tires.

Good luck!
m
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:25 AM   #4095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Front 35 and Rear 40 is just a little too far

Put 35 at front and 37 at rear, it will add some grip to rear and car should be better.

I do not have big experience (still learn) but tires good work when they just one step harder, for example: 35/37, 37/40, 40/42 (Front/Rear).

If on 35/37 car will be overster 1st step is remove some drop at front, car
will transfer less weight to front at breaking and cornering so it reduce oversteer.

Then play with more things, like oil, springs whatever best driver do on similar set of tires.

Good luck!
m
you want to add Front droop = more front droop, transfering more weight to the rear under acceleration. and also take some droop out of the rear = less rear droop . less rear droop will transfer less weight to front on corner entry or under braking increasing rear grip under these conditions.

also look at your clutch, if its too snappy try to lessen the pre-load on the clutch spring, and try to use your throttle finger as a potentiometer , not a Switch. this also helps with fuel consumption, and less wear on your car.
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