YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Got that new CSO chassis on. I think that when they copied the Serpent chassis, they didn't take into consideration about the hard anodizing affecting the pin hole size. It was very tight. The bulkheads wouldn't push in like it did with the stock chassis. I had to crank on the screws to force the pins in. I was afraid if I did it a little too hard that I may tweak the chassis. Will have to back out the suspension and lay it on the board to find out.

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

I would give up the hard anodizing and drill the holes out to the proper size rather than have a tight fit on a bulkhead like that. if it was plastic maybe.

CSO certainly has some interesting parts for all cars, I have all of their pulleys/pinions on my 966 and the anodizing doesn't really stick very well to the pinions but the pulleys seem to be ok and are not chewing up belts.

keavze

hi,
what's the best way to 'cure' on power pushing in a sweeper?

anyone tried driving without the front sway bar? thought of removing the front sway bar...

also, what the rear belt tension that you guys set? mine is set at the middle but i've already replace 2 of my rear black belts in less than 10tanks for each belt. front and side black belts still ok though...

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

are you using diff or spool ?
i will be trying no front bar next weekend with a spool, and cured steering link issue.
as for the belts, use the orange ones.

redsand

harder rear bar or thicker rear diff oil.

rcpaintinpete

iTrader: (16)

hey guys have a painted stickered and fit xceed body for sale
60$ shipped.

keavze

hi patto and redsand,

i'm using a front diff with 300k and rear of 80k; stock frt and rear bar of 2.5...

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i dropped my front bar to 1.8.
this should give some more steering and the rear bar being harder than the front, should help it.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

true ?

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Yes, the pin holes in the original chassis was tight to begin with but it was possible to push the pins into the chassis by hand. The CSO chassis most likely copied the dimensions of the original chassis. However, when that happens and there is plating (anodizing) involved, the plating will add material to the surface of the material as well as the inner walls of the punched holes.

Since the screw holes are countersunk, the tolerances on those holes can be larger because the countersink will help center the screw. However, because the pin holes are straight, the tolerances must be tight to aide in precise centering of the pin. This is where the problem lies because due to the tight tolerance of the pin hole, with the hard anodizing added onto it, the hole is now out of spec, hence the extreme tightness of the pin holes.

The remedy would be that the user must ream the holes lightly to clear the additional material from the anodizing such that the pin would fit easily and precisely.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

ok i'll tomorrow contact my this friend check it !

jca2000au

iTrader: (9)

Similar to NT1, some screw holes don't line up. They are shit !

Julius

Just try to add some caster. easiest to try and works mostly mid corner and onwards. Thinner front bar will give more steering everywhere but might make the transitions too slow. Other optins are less rear toe, or softer front diff oil.

GLOWHEAD

Here is my take on the rear belt. The bottom of the belt sits a mere fraction of a millimeter above the bottom of the chassis, almost flush. The 710 had a similar situation with a two tooth larger rear pulley.

If there was a stone anywhere on the track, it would find it's way into my car and wedge itself between the rear pulley and the chassis. When they released the LCG chassis for the 710, it did not have the opening under the rear belt. Problem solved.

My contention is that the rear belt is very vulnerable to contact with debris on the track, or if you clip a berm, or dragging the rear of the car when the tires and ride height get low. All in the pursuit of the lowest CG.

I would much rather have the rear diff sit a millimeter or two higher, and do away with the opening in the chassis. The front belt is similarly placed, but is not as much of an issue as the rear.

The belt on the 720 sits much higher and is virtually protected from contact. A set of belts on my 720 would last me all season.

This is the very thing that will take you out 5 min before the end of your main when you hit somebodies drive dog or shock spring or whatever laying on the track. I'm disappointed that they created this situation again with the 733.

Don't get me wrong, I'm a total Serpent player and am way into this car. I'm just beginning to see a number of post's from guys having rear belt problems.

When you're running a sub A program, like 95% of us out there are, despite what we fool ourselves into thinking, attrition and survivability are at least 50% of the game. I think the rear belt/pulley are just asking for trouble.

Check your rear belt for scratches in the writing, nicks or dents, or dents in the edges of the pulley. If you have them, then you know where they are coming from.

I'd like to give a shout out to my Serpent brethren at 301 Raceway, and all those who traveled to races there. Let's all keep the faith that whatever issues there are will be resolved, and that the 301 facility is reborn for 2010.

Mark Hartzell

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Okay, I checked my chassis on the board today and despite cranking on the screws in the bulkheads to force the pins in, the chassis didn't tweak. If I had reamed the holes lightly, the chassis would have assembled easily without any complication. I will remember to do that next time.

I do want to say that the hard anodizing did a good job. After a days worth of runs, I took a rag with Nitroclean and wiped the bottom of the chassis clean and saw that the anodize coating is still very much intact. So the plating is good and wears well so far.