MRX4-R or MRX4X or WAIT ???
03-24-2009, 11:42 AM
#16
Clinton, here are the parts you need to convert to an "X" car:
H0136-B Rear Upper Arm
H0140-B Rear Upright
H0148-B Front Bulkhead
H0149-B Rear Bulkhead
H0188 Eccentric Hub
H0189 Upright Spacer
H0190 Brake Bracket
H0191 Rear Lower Arm Mount
H0374 Battery Holder FRP
H0466-B Rear Body Mount
H0475 Chassis
H0560 Front Damper Stay
H0561 Rear Damper Stay
H0562 Damper Case
H0571 Damper Parts
H0780 Clutch set for MRX-4X
H0858 Ball Link 6mm (S)
As Sean mentioned, some guys are using some "R" parts like Rear Uprights, etc... They can be interchangeable for tuning options and preference depending on track conditions. For what it's worth, (except for the Eccentrics) my car is a complete "X". I use the Eccentrics from the "R" with Part #T0154
Also, to keep your cost down, if your current chassis is straight and not tweaked whatsoever, you can still retain that for now. Change that later on if needed.
H0136-B Rear Upper Arm
H0140-B Rear Upright
H0148-B Front Bulkhead
H0149-B Rear Bulkhead
H0188 Eccentric Hub
H0189 Upright Spacer
H0190 Brake Bracket
H0191 Rear Lower Arm Mount
H0374 Battery Holder FRP
H0466-B Rear Body Mount
H0475 Chassis
H0560 Front Damper Stay
H0561 Rear Damper Stay
H0562 Damper Case
H0571 Damper Parts
H0780 Clutch set for MRX-4X
H0858 Ball Link 6mm (S)
As Sean mentioned, some guys are using some "R" parts like Rear Uprights, etc... They can be interchangeable for tuning options and preference depending on track conditions. For what it's worth, (except for the Eccentrics) my car is a complete "X". I use the Eccentrics from the "R" with Part #T0154
Also, to keep your cost down, if your current chassis is straight and not tweaked whatsoever, you can still retain that for now. Change that later on if needed.
03-24-2009, 11:47 AM
#17
Ron and everyone thanks alot for the great info I will start to work on this , this weekend if I get a chance , I am not trying to be a top driver because trust me the only way could ever keep up with Ron C if my car was towed by his LOL but am just trying too up my skills and lower my lap times if I can.
Again thanks for all the replies and help.
Again thanks for all the replies and help.
03-24-2009, 11:51 AM
#18
LOL thats my man Sam.
03-25-2009, 06:17 PM
#20
The X rear up-rites are not taller. The "Links" between the rear up-rite and the rear body mount "H0466F" are the "tallest" that they have made and increase overall down force (biased toward the rear) the most. This is areo so it will show little increase in SLOW speed corners.
The rear up-rites; With the introduction of the X up-rite we gained the ability to change rear "scrub". To put it simply, the further away the center of the tread of the tire is from the lower pivot balls the less rear grip will be generated. The closer we move the center of the tread to the pivot balls the more rear grip will be generated.
With the X up-rites scrub adjusted for the most rear grip (both washers between the rear up-rite and the out-side bearing) the center of the tire tread is .5 mm further away from the pivot balls than the non adjustable R rear up-rites. So at this point the R up-rites are going to generate a bit more grip than the X adjusted for max grip.
The second change to the X rear up-rite is the location of the 3x16mm screw that the rear upper arm's pivot ball attaches to.
They moved the screw in 2.5mm thus shortening the upper arms length any way you look at it (vrs. the 4,r upper arms). At the same time they increased the distance between the upper arms hinge pins. These two changes effect how the instant center reacts to chassis roll and the center of gravity of the car. Faster response due to less chassis roll. Less chassis roll equals less grip.
X stuff will help you help your car rotate...loose
R stuff will help you hammer the throttle sooner...push
The rear up-rites; With the introduction of the X up-rite we gained the ability to change rear "scrub". To put it simply, the further away the center of the tread of the tire is from the lower pivot balls the less rear grip will be generated. The closer we move the center of the tread to the pivot balls the more rear grip will be generated.
With the X up-rites scrub adjusted for the most rear grip (both washers between the rear up-rite and the out-side bearing) the center of the tire tread is .5 mm further away from the pivot balls than the non adjustable R rear up-rites. So at this point the R up-rites are going to generate a bit more grip than the X adjusted for max grip.
The second change to the X rear up-rite is the location of the 3x16mm screw that the rear upper arm's pivot ball attaches to.
They moved the screw in 2.5mm thus shortening the upper arms length any way you look at it (vrs. the 4,r upper arms). At the same time they increased the distance between the upper arms hinge pins. These two changes effect how the instant center reacts to chassis roll and the center of gravity of the car. Faster response due to less chassis roll. Less chassis roll equals less grip.
X stuff will help you help your car rotate...loose
R stuff will help you hammer the throttle sooner...push
03-25-2009, 07:49 PM
#21
I like the R front tower for a bit more turn in. It's a slight change but a helpful one for me. The original 4 or 4x tower is a bit more stable and good for VHT tracks where front grip gets ridiculously high.
03-31-2009, 01:51 PM
#22
oops, wrong thread
03-31-2009, 02:39 PM
#23
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