R/C Tech Forums - Serpent 710

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Quote:

Originally posted by impalabob64
the serpent is called the snake charmer right in makes u want to learn more.the g4 was an is i think might be close to being up there with the 710 but it has things that has to be done.to reach the snake charmer thats the name i gave it at my club track ,mugens cant touch it ,.kyosho want to beat it.s r40 cant even taste it but they feel the strike of the reptile dont they can i get a what,what :nod:

I luuuuvvv your summary! :smile:

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
:weird: :rolleyes:

How could Onkel Sow resist a JP engine?:sneaky: :ha:

I can't but the three port still puts me off a bit unless I decide to enter the rubber races. But painful memories of collecting boxes of inserts, wheels and tyres just wore me down. :rolleyes: :(

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
Ah you old guys with their childish antics again...:rolleyes: :lol: :lol: :lol:

It was Mark's idea ... honest. :blush:

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
Strange that Michael, Julius, Rene and the rest of Team Serpent use a LOT of rear sway bar (set to hard position) to dial their car. Yeah, this combined WITHOUT the front sway bar !

D, it depends on the track. If you have decent grip and there's a flat sweeper or two then I'd definitely be using it. Helps with max power through a flat sweeper without the worry of traction rolling. ;)

Re: Re: Re: Clutch.... help...

Quote:

Originally posted by ttso
If car is fully stop, everything is good. Throttle on will make the clutch engage correctly, good punch. But when I leaving corner and put the throttle back on from free-roll, it won't engage. And in straight line, if I release the throttle in middle and put it back on right away. I can heard my engine running into higer RPM, but car speed gradually reduced, just like free-roll. The only way to make it re-engage is keep click on thrttole until lucky happen.

Nope, 2nd speed didn't kick in.

Really a strange problem. It feels like the spring push the shoe back in high RPM, makes it dis-engage even the RPM still remain the same high.

I was about to say the same thing as D mentioned. Check your 1-way or the rear-diff. Most likely your rear diff is slipping. :D

anyone looking for a good engine check out my for sale post.

Hi I will like to get some advice in reference to my Set Up. I has been raising in a large Parking loot Track with the 710, the set up I have works very good in that Track (med low traction) , I will show the set up.

We will start as of Sunday running in an other Track which is smaller (High Traction), one Fast Sweeper coming in the straight one slow one coming out, four hair pings and one chicane.

This track is very small compare to the other, we change track during our 14 raising in the year, depending on the sponsor.

The Set Up I have is the following:

Engine Nova Rossi NSR12 S3, with two ceramic Boca Bearing, Nova Mega crankshaft 11.5 Outlaw MS for Novarossi, yellow shoes, with 1.8 spring.
Fuel 20% Nitro 12% oil with Nitro Blast Additive.
Glowplug C6TF Novarossi
Pipe Nova Mega 5P out low

Tires Ellegi 40 front & rear

Shocks Red front & rear, 35 / 3 holes front, 40 / 3 holes rear
Shock Mounting front 2 & rear 1 (Default)

Transmition Spur 61 / 57 Pinion 16 / 21

Drive Train Rear Ball Diff Med hard / Front One way

Roll Center Rear UTI / LT Front 0mm under

Down Stop Front 0mm Rear 7mm

Camber Front 1.5 Left & Right Rear 3.0 Left & Right

Toe Front 1 out rear 2 in

Caster 2mm front

Ride Height Front 6mm Rear 7mm

Body Alpha Prot.

Car Weight without Body & Fuel (includes transponder & temperature gauge) 1665g
With Body 1785g

Bearing Complete Boca Bearings set and Ceramic bearing in rear Ball Diff.

The car has the three latest Aluminum option from Serpent, Hudy Dog Bones front & Rear, Hudy Drive shafts front & Rear, Ventilated Disk Brake, Hudy drive shaft in One-way.

What will be a good change from this Set Up to move to a smaller track (more technical & higher traction?

Thanks

Re: Re: Re: Re: Clutch.... help...

Quote:

Originally posted by Julius
99% says it's the one way in the 1st gear slipping. Clean it with some brake cleaner and re-lube with one-way oil. It is not possible to check a one way just by feeling. The forces on it are completely different when the car is running.

Yeah, that was what I was thinking as well. Anyway, I think you should not use any type of brake cleaner. The ones I've seen are very caustic on plastics. Using the wrong one could melt and deform the plastic cage where the oneway bearing needles roll.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Flight plan!

Quote:

Originally posted by Sow&Steady
What do you expect D?

Paying more than double for JP FX when you can just buy an ordinary 5 port engine for the same performance?:confused: Does not make any sense.

Quote:

Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Hey, he's got titanium everything you know ... not to mention that blue-11-finned screamer!

Apparently you don't seem to think much about the blue 11 fin screamer...:sneaky: :lol:

Quote:

Originally posted by Sow&Steady
I can't but the three port still puts me off a bit unless I decide to enter the rubber races. But painful memories of collecting boxes of inserts, wheels and tyres just wore me down. :rolleyes: :(

JP website mentioned that the engine with the new 3 port sleeve (IDM style type porting) is about the same performance of their 5 port engines.

Ah, with a JP FX 3 port, why should you need to be relegated to join the rubber tire class? I'm sure the 3 port kicks in every bit of butt in the outlaw 5 port engine class.:nod:

Quote:

Originally posted by Sow&Steady
It was Mark's idea ... honest. :blush:

:lol: Like I mentioned, it takes two (old) people to tango.:nod: :sweat:

hey you guys think the jpfx is fast i seen 1 get its a$$ handed to it by a murnanmodified mugen x12.repeatly oh for a tech or short track i highly suggest solid axle in front.

Thanks for everyone helping my question regarding the setup and yellow spring shoe part number :) I hate Mondays!

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clutch.... help...

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
Yeah, that was what I was thinking as well. Anyway, I think you should not use any type of brake cleaner. The ones I've seen are very caustic on plastics. Using the wrong one could melt and deform the plastic cage where the oneway bearing needles roll.

The real strange part is: if I lift the car and put throttle on (about 15% of throttle). I can see clutch engage and than slip away after a while (under the same RPM) :weird: That why I say it feels like spring push the shoe back in. :confused: :confused: :confused:

Anyway, I gonna try the rebuilded clutch first this weekend, than new spring, than new flyweight, than.... I don't know...:cry: