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Originally posted by buboy28 i think "D" could answer your question but if you dont like the plastic shock bodies there is as optional aluminum threaded body shock. i did change mine from plastic to aluminum;) |
Originally posted by Pyramid May I know why? |
Originally posted by crashed_1 For one, they don't crack upon impact...i've seen one too many plastic shock body breaking at our local track...:( |
Originally posted by crashed_1 For one, they don't crack upon impact...i've seen one too many plastic shock body breaking at our local track...:( The only thing I don't like about the composite shock bodies is the upper thread where the shock cap is attached strips easy if you're not careful. Very fine thread. Aluminum shock bodies will last and last. Also, there is another thing about Team Serpent drivers preferring the composite bodies to the aluminum ones. Apparently the composite ones provide more consistant performance...:confused: |
Originally posted by crashed_1 Nova Max Massimo Fantini |
Originally posted by InitialD p/s: Where have you been hiding Mark?:sneaky: :lol: I was talking to Sow about my settings last night (in the 3hobby chat room - you should try it :D ) and it seems I've probably been setting my LSN and HSN too lean, as I was trying to compensate for a badly setup engine. I was basically going the wrong way with both the LSN and HSN. I had thought I had had a rich bottom end, where in fact it was probably the HSN which was rich. I had adjusted the LSN to cure this, which it did, but probably only because it affected the HSN. Then I had to reduce the idle screw to stop the engine from idling too fast, etc, etc. You said above about adjusting the LSN until the revs start to rise. So basically the idle remains constant, you turn in the screw a bit (1/12th)......listen to the idle - if it is still runing at the same revs turn the screw in a bit more. Repeat this until I do another 1/12th turn clockwise and then the revs rise a little - I stop and richen 1/12th? Got my spare JP :D |
crashed_1
Glad to see your avatar is nice and gentle again :D
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Originally posted by markp27 You said above about adjusting the LSN until the revs start to rise. So basically the idle remains constant, you turn in the screw a bit (1/12th)......listen to the idle - if it is still runing at the same revs turn the screw in a bit more. Repeat this until I do another 1/12th turn clockwise and then the revs rise a little - I stop and richen 1/12th? Originally posted by markp27 Got my spare JP :D |
Originally posted by Pyramid Maybe you have not done what we wrote... |
Re: crashed_1
Originally posted by markp27 Glad to see your avatar is nice and gentle again :D Brutus the RAT... |
Originally posted by InitialD Did you crack yours?:sneaky: The only thing I don't like about the composite shock bodies is the upper thread where the shock cap is attached strips easy if you're not careful. Very fine thread. Aluminum shock bodies will last and last. Also, there is another thing about Team Serpent drivers preferring the composite bodies to the aluminum ones. Apparently the composite ones provide more consistant performance...:confused: He dont like the way alu. body react to the track temp. Hotter ambient will lower the visco. Personally. go with aluminium body! will save your shock budget:D |
Originally posted by InitialD I'm jealous ! :cry: :cry: :cry: |
Re: Re: crashed_1
Originally posted by crashed_1 :lol: :lol: :lol: Brutus the RAT... |
Originally posted by InitialD Did you crack yours?:sneaky: The only thing I don't like about the composite shock bodies is the upper thread where the shock cap is attached strips easy if you're not careful. Very fine thread. Aluminum shock bodies will last and last. Originally posted by InitialD Also, there is another thing about Team Serpent drivers preferring the composite bodies to the aluminum ones. Apparently the composite ones provide more consistant performance...:confused: |
Originally posted by InitialD I'm jealous ! :cry: :cry: :cry: |
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