Re: Re: Re: Initial D
 

So it's now called Suruth Overdrive ?:lol:

I tried it the other time. Felt it was somehow the same. Perhaps I did not get the right settings yet.

Anyway, any details on the rear belt? What did you use? I used one tooth more in the rear and the rear belt was very. How did you overcome the problem with the diff clamp coming out too much and hence rubs partly upper diff holder?

Re: Re: Re: Re: Initial D
 

See, I told you that you guys have better weapons than me like the overdrive thingy ! :cry:

It was actually from one of the guppy fishes in my office aquarium....:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Re: Re: Re: Re: Initial D
 

I use the "looser" (or maybe the loosest) on the eccentric notch.

I use the 6361 in rear the 6mm one. Not sure about the diff clamp coz Im using old impulse 46T pulley and they didnt have a notch so i didnt use the clamp. And I use all of my hand power to lock the setting and i believe that my bevel washer is near to flat :D :D

BTW, can I have more detail about "diff clamp coming out too much and hence rubs partly upper diff holder?"
Im not sure in which direction.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Initial D
 

Ok. Is the end result very tight? But I thought that the loosest setting was still too tight already ! I'll try again.

The part where the screw comes out to tighten the clamp, rubs and touches the side of the diff housing holder.

So you just install the rear diff without the diff adjustment clamp? Install the diff like installing rear diff on the orginal 705?

Yeah, I will put it on the 710, but I dont know if I will race it hard though. But yes, I am a Civic fan, We have the Civic Coupe here, but not the sadan, it is called the Ballade (Pronounced bal-ard), but they are now old models... I nearly bought a Balade V-Tec, but the service costs are WAY TOO high.

It is a pity that you cant get the mazda 6 anymore, I will be very sad... I agree that painting the bodies is VERY rewarding, but it is a little painfull to cut the stickers out.

Cutting the stickers for me is the easy part. Cutting the body is the hard part, I find it kinda tough to see the clear lines. But you get used to it.

I tought your S710 is still in `transit` as mentioned in your signature:D

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Initial D
 

The end of the screw when tightening the clamp comes out? and that comes out `end` is rubbing the side of diff housing?

One guy just bought my car last saturday when practicing.. cannot have refference at this moment.. but by picturing on manual book, that `screw` is no where near the diff upper/lower holder isn`t it?

Is there a tip as to how to prevent your shock oil from leaking? I notice my front shocks leak more compared to my rears(notice alot of dirt around it). After only 3 tanks I notice my front shocks did not have as much rebound when it was newly rebuilt. Could it be because I had an impact in the front that might have caused it to leak in some way? The shocks didnt break or anything but one of them popped off the ball cups. But when I tested both fronts it barely has any rebound. Should I put shims in the rubber ring on the bottom of the screw cap? Where do I put the shims, above the ring or below? I have aluminum shocks in the front.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Initial D
 

Pay attention on your 802310, with standard pulley it touches the belt already. You need to files it a bit. I think Mr Jack (clmb45) already mention it before.

Still not sure about this, have to check my car tonight.

Correct.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Initial D
 

Yes.:nod:

The screw is now spaced more towards the side and therefore rubs the diff housing.

After a while of playing, you need to rebuild your shocks. Build it according to the manual. Put the bladders so that it is flat on top and into the shock body. Make sure you do the same for the other shock as this step would maintain the same shock rebound on the other shock. Some oil will come out as a result. Never mind about that. Then put in the shock cap and then the aluminum shock cap nut (align the notches) and screw it down slowly to make sure that you screw it down perpendicularly. Else, if not, you'll strip the threading on the shock body if you're using a composite shock body. Screw it down and tighten it tightly.

I would suggest you getting the shock insert foams (909447) or you can get it together with the optional softer red shock bladders (909446). It makes the shock rebound and performance more consistant.:nod:

Thanks D,

Ill see if I can get the softer red shock bladders. 9999 post! 1 more to go! :D

And he has Manticore very much in his sights! :nod: :lol: