Serpent 710
03-30-2004, 07:27 AM
#7201
Originally posted by cyba888
The caliper will be used only for RC cars. 6 inch digital caliper compared to 12 inch is 30 bucks and 100bucks. If 12 inch is not needed then ill just save some $$ and get the 6inch.
The caliper will be used only for RC cars. 6 inch digital caliper compared to 12 inch is 30 bucks and 100bucks. If 12 inch is not needed then ill just save some $$ and get the 6inch.
Where are you getting it from? that sounds a little excessive!
$30 I feel is more reasonable.
03-30-2004, 07:31 AM
#7202
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
i guess you have to have fun some how!!
i guess you have to have fun some how!!
03-30-2004, 07:33 AM
#7203
Originally posted by BaxterC
$100!!! I think I too will go with the 6"
Where are you getting it from? that sounds a little excessive!
$30 I feel is more reasonable.
$100!!! I think I too will go with the 6"
Where are you getting it from? that sounds a little excessive!
$30 I feel is more reasonable.
http://www.maxtool.com/cgi-bin/dbsea...ITEM=ME5906-IS
03-30-2004, 07:35 AM
#7204
Originally posted by cyba888
The caliper will be used only for RC cars. 6 inch digital caliper compared to 12 inch is 30 bucks and 100bucks. If 12 inch is not needed then ill just save some $$ and get the 6inch.
The caliper will be used only for RC cars. 6 inch digital caliper compared to 12 inch is 30 bucks and 100bucks. If 12 inch is not needed then ill just save some $$ and get the 6inch.
The only other thing that requires measuring is the wheelbase and width of car. Both are beyond 12" making it useless. A good 6" set of calipers and a 15" steel rule are all that is required.
03-30-2004, 07:36 AM
#7205
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
I find the 12" is no use for 200mm cars. The only thing you can measure with them are the pillow ball lengths, the pipe lenght and tire diameters. None of those require 12".
The only other thing that requires measuring is the wheelbase and width of car. Both are beyond 12" making it useless. A good 6" set of calipers and a 15" steel rule are all that is required.
I find the 12" is no use for 200mm cars. The only thing you can measure with them are the pillow ball lengths, the pipe lenght and tire diameters. None of those require 12".
The only other thing that requires measuring is the wheelbase and width of car. Both are beyond 12" making it useless. A good 6" set of calipers and a 15" steel rule are all that is required.
03-30-2004, 07:36 AM
#7206
Originally posted by cyba888
Cheapest place I found.
http://www.maxtool.com/cgi-bin/dbsea...ITEM=ME5906-IS
Cheapest place I found.
http://www.maxtool.com/cgi-bin/dbsea...ITEM=ME5906-IS
03-30-2004, 07:40 AM
#7207
Originally posted by cyba888
Cheapest place I found.
http://www.maxtool.com/cgi-bin/dbsea...ITEM=ME5906-IS
Cheapest place I found.
http://www.maxtool.com/cgi-bin/dbsea...ITEM=ME5906-IS
03-30-2004, 07:41 AM
#7208
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
I find the 12" is no use for 200mm cars. The only thing you can measure with them are the pillow ball lengths, the pipe lenght and tire diameters. None of those require 12".
The only other thing that requires measuring is the wheelbase and width of car. Both are beyond 12" making it useless. A good 6" set of calipers and a 15" steel rule are all that is required.
I find the 12" is no use for 200mm cars. The only thing you can measure with them are the pillow ball lengths, the pipe lenght and tire diameters. None of those require 12".
The only other thing that requires measuring is the wheelbase and width of car. Both are beyond 12" making it useless. A good 6" set of calipers and a 15" steel rule are all that is required.
03-30-2004, 07:42 AM
#7209
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by InitialD
The 0.7 mm clutch gap measurement in the manual is not a hard and fast rule thingy. Depending on condition of track and traction. If you have lots of traction and the track is wide open, an agressive clutch with a 0.7 mm clutch gap is required. For smoother acceleration and linear feel of the clutch, useful for low traction and tighter tracks, smaller clutch gap like 0.4 mm or thereabouts is required.
The 0.7 mm clutch gap measurement in the manual is not a hard and fast rule thingy. Depending on condition of track and traction. If you have lots of traction and the track is wide open, an agressive clutch with a 0.7 mm clutch gap is required. For smoother acceleration and linear feel of the clutch, useful for low traction and tighter tracks, smaller clutch gap like 0.4 mm or thereabouts is required.
InitialD, thanks for the compliment about my recent article!
That is good praise coming from you.
I wrote it mostly because of the discussions that were going on here on this topic. I have been in contact with Julius Kolff to see how I can improve the article by listing the effects of too large or too small clutch gap and endplay.
Like InitialD said, the 0.7mm clutch gap is NOT a hard-n-fast rule, but depending on what the settings it, it will make the clutch engage harder, then make you faster!
This gap value has been around for a while, since the original Centax clutch. At that time, they said a gap value of 0.65~0.75 was okay.Like Palmaris Europe says, the clutch gap reflects what way the bite occurs... see comments below.
Figure it this way...
Larger clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel further before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe further, that means the engine has to rev higher so the centrifugal shoes expand out far enough to push the shoe that little extra bit. THAT means that when the shoe hits the housing it is spinning faster, and will hit harder giving a more sudden engagement.
However, this may take its toll on more strain put on other components, such as the thrustbearing.
Smaller clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel less far before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe less far, that means the engine has to rev not as high for the centrifugal shoes to expand out far enough to push the shoe that much less. THAT means that when the shoe hits the housing it is spinning slower, and will hit softer giving a smoother engagement.
However, with too small a clutch gap, the shoe may engage too soon and at not high enough speed, resulting in engine bogging. It might wear out the shoe prematurely.
Some comments:
From Palmaris Europe:
I would agree with most of what you said except about the part regarding engine revs. No matter whether you use a 0.3mm gap or 0.7mm gap you can still set the clutch to engage at the same RPM. It's all a matter of adjusting the nut correctly. The clutch gap only reflects what way the bite occurs.
From Sow&Steady:
The harder the clutch spring, the smaller the gap required for a given engagement at a given RPM (which generates the centrifugal forces for the fly-weights).
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
Last edited by GlennCauley; 03-30-2004 at 08:24 AM.
03-30-2004, 07:44 AM
#7210
Guys wish me luck i have a race at Lakeland Florida this weekend hope my serpent does very well i did some changes on it that InitialD recommended so we will see , there alot of mugens at that track , so i hope that serpent comes out on top again!!
03-30-2004, 07:44 AM
#7211
Originally posted by BaxterC
And what about the local DIY or the hardware?
And what about the local DIY or the hardware?
03-30-2004, 07:46 AM
#7212
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
Guys wish me luck i have a race at Lakeland Florida this weekend hope my serpent does very well i did some changes on it that InitialD recommended so we will see , there alot of mugens at that track , so i hope that serpent comes out on top again!!
Guys wish me luck i have a race at Lakeland Florida this weekend hope my serpent does very well i did some changes on it that InitialD recommended so we will see , there alot of mugens at that track , so i hope that serpent comes out on top again!!
Go get em!
03-30-2004, 07:46 AM
#7213
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Hi guys!
InitialD, thanks for the compliment about my recent article!
That is good praise coming from you.
I wrote it mostly because of the discussions that were going on here on this topic. I have been in contact with Julius Kolff to see how I can improve the article by listing the effects of too large or too small clutch gap and endplay.
Like InitialD said, the 0.7mm clutch gap is NOT a hard-n-fast rule, but depending on what the settings it, it will make the clutch engage harder, then make you faster!
This gap value has been around for a while, since the original Centax clutch. At that time, they said a gap value of 0.65~0.75 was okay.
Figure it this way...
Larger clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel further before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe further, that means the engine has to rev higher so the centrifugal shoes expand out far enough to push the shoe that little extra bit. THAT means that when the shoe his the housing it is spinning faster, and will hit harder giving a more sudden engagement.
However, this may take its toll on more strain put on other components, such as the thrustbearing.
Smaller clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel less far before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe less far, that means the engine has to rev not as high for the centrifugal shoes to expand out far enough to push the shoe that much less. THAT means that when the shoe his the housing it is spinning slower, and will hit softer giving a smoother engagement.
However, with too small a gap, the shoe may engage too soon and at not high-enough speed, resulting in engine bogging. It might wear out the shoe prematurely.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
Hi guys!
InitialD, thanks for the compliment about my recent article!
That is good praise coming from you.
I wrote it mostly because of the discussions that were going on here on this topic. I have been in contact with Julius Kolff to see how I can improve the article by listing the effects of too large or too small clutch gap and endplay.
Like InitialD said, the 0.7mm clutch gap is NOT a hard-n-fast rule, but depending on what the settings it, it will make the clutch engage harder, then make you faster!
This gap value has been around for a while, since the original Centax clutch. At that time, they said a gap value of 0.65~0.75 was okay.
Figure it this way...
Larger clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel further before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe further, that means the engine has to rev higher so the centrifugal shoes expand out far enough to push the shoe that little extra bit. THAT means that when the shoe his the housing it is spinning faster, and will hit harder giving a more sudden engagement.
However, this may take its toll on more strain put on other components, such as the thrustbearing.
Smaller clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel less far before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe less far, that means the engine has to rev not as high for the centrifugal shoes to expand out far enough to push the shoe that much less. THAT means that when the shoe his the housing it is spinning slower, and will hit softer giving a smoother engagement.
However, with too small a gap, the shoe may engage too soon and at not high-enough speed, resulting in engine bogging. It might wear out the shoe prematurely.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
03-30-2004, 07:47 AM
#7214
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Hi guys!
InitialD, thanks for the compliment about my recent article!
That is good praise coming from you.
I wrote it mostly because of the discussions that were going on here on this topic. I have been in contact with Julius Kolff to see how I can improve the article by listing the effects of too large or too small clutch gap and endplay.
Like InitialD said, the 0.7mm clutch gap is NOT a hard-n-fast rule, but depending on what the settings it, it will make the clutch engage harder, then make you faster!
This gap value has been around for a while, since the original Centax clutch. At that time, they said a gap value of 0.65~0.75 was okay.
Figure it this way...
Larger clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel further before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe further, that means the engine has to rev higher so the centrifugal shoes expand out far enough to push the shoe that little extra bit. THAT means that when the shoe his the housing it is spinning faster, and will hit harder giving a more sudden engagement.
However, this may take its toll on more strain put on other components, such as the thrustbearing.
Smaller clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel less far before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe less far, that means the engine has to rev not as high for the centrifugal shoes to expand out far enough to push the shoe that much less. THAT means that when the shoe his the housing it is spinning slower, and will hit softer giving a smoother engagement.
However, with too small a gap, the shoe may engage too soon and at not high-enough speed, resulting in engine bogging. It might wear out the shoe prematurely.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
Hi guys!
InitialD, thanks for the compliment about my recent article!
That is good praise coming from you.
I wrote it mostly because of the discussions that were going on here on this topic. I have been in contact with Julius Kolff to see how I can improve the article by listing the effects of too large or too small clutch gap and endplay.
Like InitialD said, the 0.7mm clutch gap is NOT a hard-n-fast rule, but depending on what the settings it, it will make the clutch engage harder, then make you faster!
This gap value has been around for a while, since the original Centax clutch. At that time, they said a gap value of 0.65~0.75 was okay.
Figure it this way...
Larger clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel further before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe further, that means the engine has to rev higher so the centrifugal shoes expand out far enough to push the shoe that little extra bit. THAT means that when the shoe his the housing it is spinning faster, and will hit harder giving a more sudden engagement.
However, this may take its toll on more strain put on other components, such as the thrustbearing.
Smaller clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel less far before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe less far, that means the engine has to rev not as high for the centrifugal shoes to expand out far enough to push the shoe that much less. THAT means that when the shoe his the housing it is spinning slower, and will hit softer giving a smoother engagement.
However, with too small a gap, the shoe may engage too soon and at not high-enough speed, resulting in engine bogging. It might wear out the shoe prematurely.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
03-30-2004, 07:48 AM
#7215
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Hi guys!
InitialD, thanks for the compliment about my recent article!
That is good praise coming from you.
I wrote it mostly because of the discussions that were going on here on this topic. I have been in contact with Julius Kolff to see how I can improve the article by listing the effects of too large or too small clutch gap and endplay.
Like InitialD said, the 0.7mm clutch gap is NOT a hard-n-fast rule, but depending on what the settings it, it will make the clutch engage harder, then make you faster!
This gap value has been around for a while, since the original Centax clutch. At that time, they said a gap value of 0.65~0.75 was okay.
Figure it this way...
Larger clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel further before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe further, that means the engine has to rev higher so the centrifugal shoes expand out far enough to push the shoe that little extra bit. THAT means that when the shoe his the housing it is spinning faster, and will hit harder giving a more sudden engagement.
However, this may take its toll on more strain put on other components, such as the thrustbearing.
Smaller clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel less far before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe less far, that means the engine has to rev not as high for the centrifugal shoes to expand out far enough to push the shoe that much less. THAT means that when the shoe his the housing it is spinning slower, and will hit softer giving a smoother engagement.
However, with too small a gap, the shoe may engage too soon and at not high-enough speed, resulting in engine bogging. It might wear out the shoe prematurely.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
Hi guys!
InitialD, thanks for the compliment about my recent article!
That is good praise coming from you.
I wrote it mostly because of the discussions that were going on here on this topic. I have been in contact with Julius Kolff to see how I can improve the article by listing the effects of too large or too small clutch gap and endplay.
Like InitialD said, the 0.7mm clutch gap is NOT a hard-n-fast rule, but depending on what the settings it, it will make the clutch engage harder, then make you faster!
This gap value has been around for a while, since the original Centax clutch. At that time, they said a gap value of 0.65~0.75 was okay.
Figure it this way...
Larger clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel further before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe further, that means the engine has to rev higher so the centrifugal shoes expand out far enough to push the shoe that little extra bit. THAT means that when the shoe his the housing it is spinning faster, and will hit harder giving a more sudden engagement.
However, this may take its toll on more strain put on other components, such as the thrustbearing.
Smaller clutch gap:
The shoe has to travel less far before it engages the clutch housing. To move the shoe less far, that means the engine has to rev not as high for the centrifugal shoes to expand out far enough to push the shoe that much less. THAT means that when the shoe his the housing it is spinning slower, and will hit softer giving a smoother engagement.
However, with too small a gap, the shoe may engage too soon and at not high-enough speed, resulting in engine bogging. It might wear out the shoe prematurely.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
WOW, spoken as a true pro!!! Well done Gleann, I must admit, I take your article like gopel and you know what you are talking about. I am sure we all do think so. Thank you for the update.