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Originally posted by baller360 do you know wear i could get it cheaper on the internet or anywhere i could get it on the net? becuase i doubt my lhs will carry it.:mad: |
Originally posted by cox049 Better try at www.ashfordhobby.com or www.atomichobbies.com because serpent USA is very expensive see for your self Serpent http://www.serpent-usa.com/serpent/ser050_3.html Atomin Hobby http://www.atomichobbies.com/serpent_710parts.html |
Originally posted by Marcos.S710 not really part number 909417 (red springs is $11.99 from Atomic hobbies and is $ 7.95 ifrom serpent ,how do you figure that atomic hobbies is cheaper i have compared the parts and i will still save bying them from serpent see for your self Serpent http://www.serpent-usa.com/serpent/ser050_3.html Atomin Hobby http://www.atomichobbies.com/serpent_710parts.html Note: To buy something at Ashford you gotta call him -Robert- by phone. Attempting to buy through online orders or email will result frustrating:weird: But than I must say that its really good to be able to talk with him, he races serpent and has great experience and knowledge and gives great advice! |
Originally posted by KevinS BUT, two universal joints at the same angle eliminate the sinus effect. The first one induces a sinus to the dogbone, the second one creates a sinus with a difference of half a phase, evening it out for the wheelaxle. If you replace one universal joint by a CVD, the sinus effect of the first universal will not be evened out. Originally posted by KevinS So in other words; If it's a CVD I don't want it! (If it's a universal and 3racings usual quality I don't want it either) ************************ On another note to Julius or somebody else, perhaps since the input speed of the driveshaft and the output speed on the wheelaxle is different, that is probably why the front of the 710 is slightly overdriven? |
Originally posted by markp27 Jesus!! :eek: :eek: :eek: Your German is as bad as D's! :lol: :lol: :lol: |
Well I've tried everything on both the second and first gears and they still wobble. I'm just going to try and run them and see what happens? The worst thing that could happen is that the teeth strip and the gears are garbage. So either way they end up in the garbage!:smile:
The aluminum 2 speed clutch housing that goes inside the second gear also wobbles a little because of the 2 speed gear wobbling. That shouldn't affect how the 2 speed clutches ingage, should it? The shoes don't rub the housing right now, but there not adjusted yet either. Let me know what you think. Thanks. |
Supermaxx
How much wobble you got?
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Originally posted by SupermaxxRich Well I've tried everything on both the second and first gears and they still wobble. I'm just going to try and run them and see what happens? The worst thing that could happen is that the teeth strip and the gears are garbage. So either way they end up in the garbage!:smile: The aluminum 2 speed clutch housing that goes inside the second gear also wobbles a little because of the 2 speed gear wobbling. That shouldn't affect how the 2 speed clutches ingage, should it? The shoes don't rub the housing right now, but there not adjusted yet either. Let me know what you think. Thanks. |
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich Well I've tried everything on both the second and first gears and they still wobble. I'm just going to try and run them and see what happens? The worst thing that could happen is that the teeth strip and the gears are garbage. So either way they end up in the garbage!:smile: The aluminum 2 speed clutch housing that goes inside the second gear also wobbles a little because of the 2 speed gear wobbling. That shouldn't affect how the 2 speed clutches ingage, should it? The shoes don't rub the housing right now, but there not adjusted yet either. Let me know what you think. Thanks. You got nothing to loose. I wont worry so much, since the spur is the one that having power and then rotating the shaft. If your shaft is wobbling too:D thats a problem. |
Originally posted by cyba888 I dont think mine was damaged but it does have some kind of play when its not fully tighten with the e-clip im guessing. So for me im going to put the engine back on and just run it off the ground to see if it wobbles. I think you should just slap it on and see how if it really wobbles or not with the engine running. Hope this helps. ;) Most of the time, people assemble it tightly and with no side lateral play at all on the main shaft and causes the drive train to bind. While you're doing this, make sure the 24T brake pulley does not rub or get in the way of the engine crankcase footing. Else, just remount it. |
Well took another look at it and this is what I have come up with. The second gear runs perfect if I pull the 6x13 bearing out. As soon as I put it in, it starts wobbling again?:flaming: The first gear on the one way still wobbles, quite a bit!!!:cry: I think I'm going to try and tweek it a little.:eek: :sweat: Then I'm just going to try and run it and see what happens. If they strip then I'll just buy new ones. I'll let you know if I'm able to get rid of some of the wobble.:D Later...
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Originally posted by GoldFinger If your shaft is wobbling too:D thats a problem. |
Also guys, if you have a chance, please check out my question in the Nitro Engine forum. I started a new post. Thanks.
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Slightly off topic: does anyone know the dimensions of the Hudy shocks? Are they the same size or smaller than the Serpent ones - I'm wanting to try some out on my Surikarn if they fit.
Cheers, Mark. |
Originally posted by InitialD For me, I suggest NOT to use the kit tires. Use your own tires 40 shore front and rear. It will eliminate the understeering with the stock setup. If it's still understeering (which I doubt), play with simple things such as shock angles and anti roll bar. You could make the rear shock more vertical (up one hole) for better turn in and stay with a harder rear antiroll bar setup for more front traction. One positive note...Even with the current problems, I have already turned faster lap times than I did with my 705. |
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