Re: Re: Re: hi mark
 

Yep, it is a Protoform Mazda, I bought it via ebay - €17,90.

Cheers, Mark.

Re: Re: Re: Re: hi mark
 

i remember i saw this design in team-td, this design oso feature in japan magazine abt a yr ago. do protoform sell the decals as well?

Servo Saver... again
 

I installed the new (long) servo saver lever last night, what a pain, and after an hour of adjusting the rod I got it... I think. I have the arm mounted 1 tooth forward on the servo with the rod around 41.5mm and the lever is centered.

Sound good so far?

Now my question is how far should the wheels turn? I have the end-points set to 100% and it seems fine. Is there a degree I should be setting it to? I checked the throw with the old lever before I took it apart and it was 30 to the right and 25 to the left. I guess I didn't have it quite right the first time. No wonder the car didn't turn very well.

Thanks

On Hudy my weels turn (70%) the same 18 deegres left 18 right.
Is this enough? Or should I make more movement?

Less is better.. just make sure you have enough steering while racing on the line.

Is anybody using A.B.S. under steering or at all?

does anyone have pictures of there serpent 710 with the lola bumper on it i would like to see some pictures PLEASE!

Its been answer by Lord D in page 599-600. The picture is on page 398:smile: :smile:

I set my end point so that with full throw there is no binding in the driveshafts. Then while driving I tune the dual rate to the amount of steering I need for the setup/track. That way I know I can always use full dual rate without the suspension or drivetrain binding.

Just out of curiosity, what is the degree of your steering throw? Are you using the long lever? I would like to have something to compare to. I run on a small tight track so steering is a must. I would have a very difficult time driving if I only had 18 degrees.

I agree with you that 18 degrees sounds on the low side. What Julius said is best because on one hand you want enough steering, on the other you don't want to overdo it and bleed off too much speed round a turn.

damn! am sorry but is it that hard for someone to post a pic of the lola bumper on the 710. i would like to see it on the car.i dont need to know the information about it i know this already i just wanna see some pictures. and its kinda hard to go back all the way to page 398 i dont even think it was out yet when we were on page 398 because they were talking about it around the mid 400s.

I estimate it will take someone over an hour to click back to page 398 someone help this guy out isn't that what we are here for:o

Man....you want these guys to wipe your butt to? They gave you the freaking page number. It takes time to post pictures...about as much time as it is for you to thumb back and see that picture. That is just totally rude to get all upset and then complain about someone not doing something that is easier for you to do then it is the person you are asking for help.

my bad guys i didnt mean to come across like that. all i ment is that instead of me having to go back all the way to page 398 to look for a picture, i was asking if someone who already has the picture could post it so i could see it am not asking you guys to go back in the thread and look for it for me, do that myself but if anyone who has it already can they post it thats it. and btw the loloa bumper came out afer page 398 so i doubt it would be on that page. once again i apologize if i sounded like if i was asking you guys to go through all those pages to look for it for me and its not a few pages is allot we on 500 thats page 398. and i doubt it would take someone an hour to post a picture i done it before and it only took me a minute.

baller360,
Just click on page 600, then go to the URL address at the top of your browser, change the last number from 600 to 398, hit the go button and wait.
. . . probably less than an hour. ;)

Here is one

And the other

thanks kreidel and taylor racing i appreciate it.

New Orange front Brackets

With lots of new bits coming originaly from d house, what is Serpent USA doing with 3racing? marketing policy completly different?

I would love to post the pictures again on my last post to you but looks like it's been deleted from my pc. Please consider reread the posting at least from the last message you posted recently so you dont waste people's time here answering to your question on every pages (actually 2 peoples asnwering to your questions). But hey, now that you got it all already, let's continue..:)

Here is the repeated reply (summary) from Goldfinger answering to your post on couple pages back,

Top part = Use Kysoho V1RR lola bumper
Bottom past = Use original serpent specially design for S710.

PS: the bottom bumper on picture is coming from kyosho V1rr also since when you buy the top, you also got the bottom. Major trimming required on bottom part to fit in the S710

i ordered a set on friday...choco

Offering better pricing options for those who are looking at lower prices?

I have a question how exactly do I order parts from mytsn.com:confused: I would like to get several parts

thx

mytsn.com is simply Serpent's website - they only provide information and not sales. You'll have to go through you LHS or one of the web base retailers to get your parts.

Cheers, Mark.

you can order from www.serpentusa.com This is the US distributor.

Unless both company owned by same person, that is possible I think (I meant some parts are the same). Or most US racers do like purple:D

Long live HPI ! :sweat: :lol:

That's http://www.serpent-usa.com :o

Thrust bearing
 

I'm new to RC Nitro cars. I just got back form the track and ran my car for fine tuning after break in. After a couple of tanks I eventually turn turtled (needs more suspension tuning) and my engine stopped. I tried to restart the engine which went fine but whenever I apply brakes my engine would just stop. I noticed the thrust bearing were pretty much eaten up? I find it unusual as my car is was a week old and It was the first time I had played with it at the track. Does your thrust bearing wear out this fast? I found out that there is a replacement bearing one normail and the other is ceramic? What's the difference?

Oh yeah I also broke my rear shock tower, weird enough the crash wasn't strong at all..

Looking forward to your reply.


Regards,

Titan

thx D:)

Especially in the ROAR record books...:eek: :eek: :eek: (sorry,had to....)...

Be carefull bro, most of the 3RC alu goodies is not cheaper than serpent alu. option parts.

Yeah. :nod: And not forgetting the no show at the WC too.:nod:

:eek: :lol:

More expensive would mean better quality than Serpent's? :sneaky: :lol: :cry:

Re: Thrust bearing
 

Titan, the ceramic option (SER-1388) is suppose to last longer than the normal one. I do not have one yet but like to try it out. So far, I have not had to replace one yet after running close to 11 months.

Anyway, you should follow Glenn Cauley's guide to building the Centax 3 clutch.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10534

Read and look for the relevant links within that column.

Most importantly, there should not be very little END PLAY at the clutch bell after building the clutch. That would ensure that the clutch does not burn out.

Also, don't forget to check out the latest version 2.2 of the Serpent unofficial FAQ which should mention about most of the things you need to know about building the 710 correctly.

:lol:

Titan, the stock rear shock tower in the kit is pretty thin. When Serpent came out with the kit, most people (except Mark :lol: ) had problems with the rear shock tower breaking.

When you buy a replacement, you will find that it comes much thicker. I'm still using this thicker replacement on the first day I broke my orginal rear shock tower.:blush:

Tried the solid axel on Saturday - WOW! :eek: After only ever using the one-way it is unbelievable how the brakes work.

I lost a little bit of steering off power (but very little) and on power I seemed to have just as much.
I was also using the thickest rear anti-roll bar, no front, red springs all round, front shock lain down and rears stood up.

I tried playing about with the diff tightness and I seemed to get even more steering on and off power (which doesn't really concur with the bible!?!?) I even had to turn down my dual rate as it was getting a little twichy. At first the tightness was a little too much and the rear end would break out, but a little bit of tuning quickly found the optimal setting.

It was really easy to drive the car with this setup - I'd be interested now to test the diff.

Cheers, Mark.

Re: Re: Thrust bearing
 

Keep meaning to contact Rene about this kryptonite rear shock tower that I have :lol: :lol:

:nod: :nod: :nod: