HOLY Whack!!! I thought the price on towerhobbies was good... ~$20 We will need to make a plan on getting a few boddies here. Our Protoform importers are wild if they think I will pay their price now after hearing that it is so cheap elsewhere. They even tried to talk me out of the S710, and said that the HPI R40 and the NTC3 were WAY better :lol: What a load of... Back to the S710. My mill arived today... NS12S3A1... :cool: Does anyone know or know of someone who has this motor in their 710, I want to know how the car performs\handles with this motor, IE. Lots of wheelspin, spinning out, bottom end. Just a general feeling, I know config. has a HUGE impact on everything.

You should order like 10 bodies at around 11 US$ to save some cash and shipping fees :nod: Does your country tax alot when shipping personal items?

If you would try MIT body,like HN or TITAN...the local prices are lower than $10.....And also excellent stuff.:spidey:

Re: Re: Hop ups
 

Mark, thanks for the link. I believe those pivot balls are the longer ones for the 705 / 835 and 950. Same size though but not the shorter ones for the 710.

Strange though... If it was not ROAR approved, then how did you guys run the Mazda 6 body at Winternats?:confused:

Any NS engine that is decently tuned with a Nova inline pipe (preferably the legal Novarossi 52606 or outlaw 52607 inline pipe or the legal TP06 NovaMega 2170 inline pipe or the outlaw TP06 NovaMega 2172 inline pipe or even the Mugen S01001 legal inline pipe or the S01002 outlaw pipe) will will make the 710 run like a bat outta hell ! :lol:

But seriuously, wheelspin or no wheelspin would depend heavily on your clutch setting ! :nod:

If I remembered correctly, last year when I was in HK, a LHS (almost all the LHS @ Mongkok) selling the Protoforms body for around HK$78-90, that is like US$10-$12 each.........and THAT is the retail price...imagine the COST from them, probably $5-$7 each.....not to mention, if I buy 10 or so, I might be able to bargain to like US $10 or less each.

Professor D......thanks for the clutch info, yes, at the end, no matter how I measure those SHIMS, it is just NOT exactly like what the manual said........so, I used the same methrod like you....the "FEEL from my hand" methrod...I made the clutch/clutch housing close enough by adding some shims before the bearing and behind the thrustbearing and still be able to spin the housing freely..........thats how I used to do my Centax 1.........most of the time it works, except sometimes it give the clutch pad alot of load (clutch is too close) and will burn up the whole clutch in no time.

I think I will need to start the engine and run the clutch for a while and see they will settle...........then I will see I have to add or remove some more shims.

Thanks again...........

Re: Re: Re: Hop ups
 

http://www.swrc.biz

:)

No, no, no, ... like a snake out of hell! :lol:

Not to mention that you can get wheelspins by being brutal with your throttle finger or having low grip surface or having low grip tires or ... you know what I mean. :)

Re: Re: Re: Re: Hop ups
 

Ummm, that looks like 3Racing hop ups ! :eek: ;)

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hop ups
 

Does anyone know the availability on these??

:D I like purple bling bling!!:)

:batman: :spidey: THe protoform MG body is now out you just have the tast of finding them ! prolineracing.com:batman: :spidey: :ha:

guys just a quick question, do some of you guys rotate your tires when in a race and you bring your car in for a pitstop? like you change the rear right tire with the left rear tire and the front right with the left front?

Unless your like 20 laps ahead :D

what's the difference between ellegi foams and power tires arent they both made by GRP?