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Originally posted by cyba888 Thanks for the link. Do I need to be a member because when I tried the link you posted its blank :( |
Originally posted by markp27 See my comments above :D |
Originally posted by InitialD The old tank already had a filter ! Just that the old one did not filter smaller particles and that is why an external one is needed. As always, Serpent will not come out with a new part number for the tank. I'm pretty sure of that. They will just replace the tank with the one with the bronze filter. I think if you buy them as spare part, you would probablt get the new one. Else, if yours is not broken, there is no need to change. Just keep using the external filter with it ! SN |
Originally posted by S710_Nut I ordered a spare fuel tank to rule it out of the tune problems i was having it was the same as the original kit talk, meaning the old tank as you call it. Just to put this out, I have never had engine tuning problems due to the tank. The tank is perfect with the external filter. Without the external filter, the tank would let in small fine debris like tire dust. |
Originally posted by InitialD Still having engine tuning problems? Have you changed the pipe? Where did you get your tank? I've not seen the new tank sold here as a spare at the moment. All are the older ones. Just to put this out, I have never had engine tuning problems due to the tank. The tank is perfect with the external filter. Without the external filter, the tank would let in small fine debris like tire dust. I got my tank from rc mushroom. These tuing problems are almost gone. Still get the occasional one, I have my new pipe to install but am afraid of getting t boned and destroying it on the mainden voyage. SN |
Originally posted by InitialD Still having engine tuning problems? Have you changed the pipe? Where did you get your tank? I've not seen the new tank sold here as a spare at the moment. All are the older ones. Just to put this out, I have never had engine tuning problems due to the tank. The tank is perfect with the external filter. Without the external filter, the tank would let in small fine debris like tire dust. No in tank filter I know of will keep all particles out. In the .12 engines even the smallest particles can cause tuning problems. Better safe than sorry. |
I got a question regarding camber adjustment. I read in mytsn.com that your suppose to measure it while the car is lifted but I thought its suppose to be better when the wheels are in contact with the car. That way its more accurate when the car really sits with the wheels when the suspension sags with the cars weight? I think there is a differnce in camber changes when its lifted and when it on its wheels. What do you guys think? I need to get this straight so I wont be running it inaccurate all the time :rolleyes:
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Re: Re: winternats set-up?
Originally posted by r12 schumacher here is Salven's set up from MYTSN.COM ... snip ... Engine and pipe: Engine: NovaMEGA Version: #2106 Head shims: 0.3mm Glowplug: 7TF Pipe: #2171 Header: #2174 Length: Fuel: 30% Remarks: Chassis performance: very good in qualifying. less in final Engine performance: good, but Swauger was much better Not sure about the climate in Florida during the winter but a 7TF is pretty cold while Swauger used a #6. :rolleyes: |
Originally posted by markp27 :eek: Had to quick make another post! Was on 666 posts!!!!!!!! :eek: |
Originally posted by Julius With the "new" tank I still use an external filter. No in tank filter I know of will keep all particles out. In the .12 engines even the smallest particles can cause tuning problems. Better safe than sorry. |
Originally posted by cyba888 I got a question regarding camber adjustment. I read in mytsn.com that your suppose to measure it while the car is lifted but I thought its suppose to be better when the wheels are in contact with the car. That way its more accurate when the car really sits with the wheels when the suspension sags with the cars weight? It doesn't make sense to set your camber with the car lifted in the air especially if you're using the Hudy set-up system! :weird: I think there is a differnce in camber changes when its lifted and when it on its wheels. What do you guys think? I need to get this straight so I wont be running it inaccurate all the time :rolleyes: |
Originally posted by cyba888 I got a question regarding camber adjustment. I read in mytsn.com that your suppose to measure it while the car is lifted but I thought its suppose to be better when the wheels are in contact with the car. That way its more accurate when the car really sits with the wheels when the suspension sags with the cars weight? I think there is a differnce in camber changes when its lifted and when it on its wheels. What do you guys think? I need to get this straight so I wont be running it inaccurate all the time :rolleyes: http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=4937&ccid=8 |
Re: Re: Re: winternats set-up?
Originally posted by Sow&Steady This could very well be why. I noticed Swauger was using 40% on a JP (can't remember the pipe) and MS using the #2106 (where on earth was his KHM?) and 30%. Not sure about the climate in Florida during the winter but a 7TF is pretty cold while Swauger used a #6. :rolleyes: From mytsn copy/paste " When we arrived on the track Sunday morning, I still thought that I will race one class only, but I wasn’t sure which one. Things became worse, because we missed one of our pieces of luggage, so I had no tools, engines and spare parts. Also our tires never arrived, so we had to rely on borrowed stuff" |
Originally posted by cyba888 I got a question regarding camber adjustment. I read in mytsn.com that your suppose to measure it while the car is lifted but I thought its suppose to be better when the wheels are in contact with the car. That way its more accurate when the car really sits with the wheels when the suspension sags with the cars weight? I think there is a differnce in camber changes when its lifted and when it on its wheels. What do you guys think? I need to get this straight so I wont be running it inaccurate all the time :rolleyes: "The camber angles are adjusted with the suspension in full down position. Because the camber angle is measured with the wheels hanging down, the angle is always positive. This is camber-out angle. When setting-up the chassis it is better to adjust the camber angles with the shock absorbers removed and the anti-roll bar disconnected to make sure that they don't interfere. The reason to measure the camber in suspension-down position (camber-out angle) is to get a good starting point for the geometry. First the down-stops are adjusted. then the camber out angle, and next the ride height, which is not measured by chassis clearance, but by the camber-in angle (with the car on its wheels in stationary position). In this way the suspension can be set independent of tyre size. The actual ride-height or chassis clearence is not measured when using the Set-Up Procedure, because this would change when tyre diameters change. Instead, after having set the camber angles in full down suspension position, the ride height is the set by measuring the camber angle in ride height position, and the adjustment is made by adjusting the coil-over springs on the front and rear shocks until the required camber-in is achieved." And as I recall the Impulse setting sheet gave you elevated camber measurements, and full weight camber measurements. I don't know if this setting method is still applicable to the new 710, but I hope it helps to clear the issue on camber settings. And I think this method is when you don't have a Hudy system. For Hudy system I think Julius published an article in MY TSN last year regarding Setting ride height and Camber. AFM |
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