I'm sure you did this but to make sure. Make certain you have the correct placement of the rings. The one with the smalle inner diameter goes on the adapter first. So the one with the larger inner diameter is closest to the clutch bell.

yeah i did that also.

Rene, Alistair is correct that some of the parts have been changed to convert it to a 235mm chassis but the main 710 design remains the same.

The car is 240 wide at the rear and 227 at the front. (I would normally run the 835 with approx 10-15mm diff)

It used VoneS drive shafts at the rear and the normal 835 up front.

Some spacers have been made for the axles and some of the arms modified but the 710 suspension design is still retained. The front axles are modified 835 rears and the throttle set-up is an adaption from the 950r.

The chassis, radio plate and side braces are custom made as the car is 10mm longer than the 710.

The car still feature all of the set-up variables that the 710 has though.

We have only run it once (with a sedan body and TQed) but already have achieved a time within .1 of a sec of the best that I did with the 835 in the same config.

It will be interesting but I would assume that it will be easily a better car than the out of date design that is the 835.

HINT,HINT it would be great if Serpent made one. You can send me one if they do.

Craig

BTW, THOMAS (aka venomworldorder) has asked me to write an article about the Mirage for RC Underground so once I get time you can check it out on his site.

I have destroyed one, but this could have been my own fault as i think someone may have forgotten to grease the bearing like the manual suggests! :(

for those guys who don't burn their thrust bearing for the centax..
share your maintenance techniques.
what grease do you use?
what kind of maintenance do you do?

I have had no problems with clutch thrust bearings (touch wood) but I lube the bearing at the start of the days racing and again before each final.
I do shim the clutch so it doesn't have to much end float, but it must have end float you can feel so the bearing is not preloaded when the clutch gets hot.

The 7mm clutch gap is to get the correct clutch engagement.

Hi Craig!
Would be nice to discussed your project a little bit. I very interested to get a 710 driving in the 835 class. So it’s possible I can help you with the setup and stuff a little.
I don’t know what the future will be, and if Serpent will make a new 835 car, but I don’t want to let die this class. Ok, I personally don’t drive this class, but I like to see them.
So ´me of your changes sounds very interesting.
When I’m back from the Winternats we will talk about that.

Keep on going
Rene

thanks pacman.
i'll do what you do as a habit now. every start and main i'll lube the thrust bearing to make sure.
:)

Thrust Bearing
 

Evlhlts,

You never asked me what to do with the Centax.

Ask and you shall receive my son !!!!!!!!!

See you Sunday !!!!!!!!!

Jabronus

I have done the same thing. Five years racing and I have never had a thrustbearing fail on me. The only difference this time was that I used molibium disulfide grease. It was a graphite based grease. Stay away from lubricants that contain graphite. You want one that doesnt migrate under load. Sorry to say this but the Mugen Grease is perfect, I just happen to run out that weekend.

Cheers

Bill Giannitis

Nice I must say. I never thought it was possible. I had a quick look myself but I thought that it was something SERPENT could do for a price. :nod:

Just let me know how much it costs for those upgrade parts:sneaky:

The end float of 0.7 mm is fine. Do like what Julius mentioned about the larger inner diameter ring (5.2 mm) in the clutchbell first and the outer one (5.0 mm) after that. Put good high temp grease like what Punisher / Pit-racer mentioned. I use the Mugen Super grease (very sticky) it it's good stuff.

Just that AFTER you install the Centax clutch on the engine, the clutchbell should move in axial direction very minimally. You should take out any play by putting some shims as per Step 8.7 on page 28 of the 710 manual.

Easy... Use titanium screws ! :lol:

But seriously, if your weather is anything like ours here where it's hot and humid all year round, rust is always a problem. It does not help when the screws get in touch with the fuel. I guess cleaning the car with a little WD40 or a little after run oil may help.

You mean tire wear in the front is better on the 710 than it is on the 705? Perhaps weight difference?

Front shocks binding? Which is this? You mean the angle not being straight? I think that issue was addressed by Julius already.

Bill, yes, the wheel rims does rub but on Speedmind dish wheels which was notorious for rubbing the front knuckles with the previous stock knuckles of the 705, it only rubbed very little on the 710 and after that it does not rub anymore. Just my observation.