The aluminum shocks are unwanted dead weight on the car ! :nod: :lol: If you want to see how light the car can be, put on the composite shocks ! :nod:

Actually no, I'd prefer the original Serpent stuff. On the other hand, if Serpent makes me wait too much .... ;)

I think if you look at the www.serpent-usa.com site, it will list a switch.

Also, I think Michael's mechanic (or UB... can't remember) mentioned on the mytsn 950 thread that Michael uses a switch that can only be gotten from a German website (non RC one). Can't recall the website but it was mentioned that Michael uses that switch on all of his 1/8th scale car.

Else, I think KO also makes an on off switch. Expensive and I think the unit itself kinda drains off some power if I'm not mistaken.

I avoid method 1 and 4 because it loads up the engine with more fuel. It can make starting the engine a little difficult in the next time.

Oh yes ! :nod: :lol: But then again, you have to agree that Serpent has been quite good in terms of parts availability lately. Except for the freaking 9607 race brake pads ! :flaming: :flaming: :flaming:

:sneaky: Of course with an effect it made from the stock clutch clutch flyweight mounting, who could forget?:lol: :D

Yes, they do stay in place with no problems.:nod:

Well, it will touch but barely. Make sure that they will slip out easily without any bind if that is what you mean. The pins are there to guide the flyweights back in and out.

Ummm, looking through the so called "951" parts :lol: , I see that it's the same old shit 950 parts ! What is this? :flaming: :flaming: :flaming: :lol: I expect nothing less from Serpent ! If they were to come out with "951", at least they should give new parts ! :lol: :lol: :lol: :cry:

Oopphs, I think fmolzer asked me in a PM on what are the things that usually break on the car...:D Forgot to reply.:o

During the race, I broke a few parts that I thought I would not have broken if it was a 705. The lower bumper (802205), upper bumper brace (802206) and one of the lower bearing blocks front (802213/14) when I clipped the boards. The arms and the pivot pin held up fine. Just that the part where the pivot pin is connected to the lower bearing block will be ripped apart. The steering knuckles are tough. Just that when you brush the walls, the steering knuckles will pop out from the pivot balls. So that means that the tendency of the dogbones (802332) and the one way driveshaft adaptors (802248) will get lost in that event.

Be careful that when you change the front aluminum spacers for roll centers. I managed to destroy the screw mounting of the 802215/16 upper bearing blocks front when I was rushing.

As for the rear, I can think only think of the rear lower arms (802318/19). For me, they did not break. The pivot ball just compressed into the threads and I got a rear toe out !

So, those were the things that broke for me. Your mileage may vary as you may break other parts as well.

Hmmmm ... in that case the harness deal is still better then .. :nod:

Of course, the KO switch adds cool factor and eye candy ! Not without added weight though.:lol:

http://rc-mushroom.com/images/KO_60224_02.jpg

I can't wait to try an onroad test....how much wt. can the alum. shock bodies w/ added strenght add over the composite.

I have no figures yet but on a light car, you can relatively feel it ! :nod: Note the word "relative".

However, on the 705, I did not notice this...

.... that's my problem with it. :)

Come on D, it ain't no 12th scale !:D