Make sure the set screws are not loose or missing on the side and middle shaft pullies. If they are loose or missing you will not have 4 wheel drive and the car will be almost undriveable.

If the area you are using the car in is very sandy and dusty, the foam tires will not grip very well and cause the car to spin out very easilyl

I'm 100% sure all pulleys and set screws are in place because I can roll the rear wheels and the front wheels will turn as well, as well as inspection.

I'm aware that the surface I'm on is far less than perfect and if this was just a little problem I would ignore it. But this thing will just vear left or right while its at high speed for no reason, and all I have to do is touch the brake and she does a 180.

Sounds like your brake may be set a little to strong for the amount of grip that you have. Also check and make sure that the front droop is set at 0 or -1 or -2. this will give you more rear traction on power thru weight transfer. Also what weight oil are you running in your front diff? Check to make sure that your rear ball diff is not gritty if you are using one of them. Also what springs are you running? Try going softer on the rear springs and harder on the front.

I'm running 0mm in the front. The front diff is a ball diff so there is no oil. The rear is a gear diff and I checked it last night. It was a little low on fluid so I cleaned it and filled it up with 30,000 diff lube. I'm running yellows all around.

I plan on tightening up the front diff and trying that, or putting back in the one way but locking it for a solid axle.

Also try blue springs in the front.

OK, I order them and give them a try.

thanks

the perfect solution is getting my s720;)

Springs and diff tightness arn't going to cause your problems. If your drivetrain is free and there is no binding, your car is tweaked. First check your shocks. Make sure they are built the same left to right. Tear them all the way down and rebuild them, replacing the o-rings and pistons. Build them to the same lengths by measuring the extended lengths. Check the rebound too so they are as close as possible. Make sure that the lower spring retainers are the same left to right and start with the collars in the same positons. An easy way to do this is to count the threads from the end of the shock body to the collar.

Now install the shocks and disconnect the sway bars. Now put the car on the setup station. Set the ride height first, then the toe and camber and droop. Then check for tweak. Now reattach the rear sway bar and check tweak. If the tweak is off adjust the sway bar till the tires lift evenly. Repeat with the front. This is the only way to get it set up correctly.

I checked the shocks but didn't rebuild them. The rebound is the same on the rears now. I have to go back and check the front tonight. The lengths of the rears are exactly the same in the extended position.

I'm not sure what you mean by lower spring retainers. Do you mean what hole in the arm their mounted to?

I start with the collars in the same position, but after checking for tweak they never stay the same.

Basiclly I've done what you suggested. Using an Integy setup station I adjust for ride height, toe, and camber. Last night I disconnected the rear sway bar and aligned for tweak. Then I connected the sway bar and checked tweak again. I had to readjust one of the collars on the rear sway to untweak the rear again.

I will order the replacement parts for the shocks and rebuild them. Do you know off hand what the part number is for the replacement parts of the shocks?

thanks for you help

I would take the ball diff out and put in a gear diff of the locked oneway. As for the shocks he was referring to the collars, and yes they won't be the same height after adjusting ride height and things. and the problem with the car doing a 180 under braking is cause you have too much brake loosen the brake knob on the rod.

Yes, I have tried that almost to the point that there is NO braking at all and yes it does stop the 180s from happening, but I'm afraid there won't be enough braking going into corners.

I will be putting in the locked one way tonight, I hope, if the parts come in. I was talked into putting the ball diff in to stop the 180s when braking and it didn't help at all. Infact I'm thinking some of my on power issues may have started when I put in the ball diff up front.

The last step is where you are messing up. Do NOT adjust the tweak with the shock collars after you connect the sway bar. You should be adjusting the lenght of the swaybar stand offs to get the left and right side even again.

Again, do not mess with your springs or diff setups. They arn't causing your spinouts. Fix your tweak properly first.

Yea, that's what I meant. The sway bar collars or stops. I didn't mess with the shocks after connecting the sway bar, only the length of the sway bar on one side was changed.

Sorry for the confusion.

A ball diff not set properly could be the cause, unless the car is tweaked very very bad cause when I first drove my 720 it was tweaked sum and didn't do any of the things Anthony's car is doing. Place the car on a flat surface and pick it up from rear and see how much more one side comes up from the other and do the same in the front then judge how tweaked it is. If it's alot then really work on fixing it also check to see that the side belt is engaging because this sound like more than tweak it sounds like something in the drivetrain.