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Old 12-25-2005, 11:10 AM
  #22756  
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It doesn't take a flat pack or hump pack, just regular AA's?
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Old 12-25-2005, 11:20 AM
  #22757  
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Originally Posted by Breakin2
It doesn't take a flat pack or hump pack, just regular AA's?

They are the smaller AAA batteries not the slightly larger AAs.

You have to make the pack with four batteries on the bottom and one on the top in this manner:

o
oooo

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 12-25-2005, 05:51 PM
  #22758  
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Oh, I understand now. Thanks.
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Old 12-25-2005, 08:23 PM
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Or you could buy premade packs from Serpent
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Old 12-25-2005, 08:23 PM
  #22760  
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Originally Posted by Julius
When I was testing different oils I found that when I went too heavy I'd notice it first in the high speed corners. The car would spin mid corner on throttle, it was still very drivable out of the tighter bends though.
.
What viscocity did you finally end up with ?
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Old 12-26-2005, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by redsand
What viscocity did you finally end up with ?
Om Redsand, the diff housing (in volume) is particularly smaller than other brand such as kyosho or mugen. It will feel (very) slightly lighter with the same oil (30000wt is common for JITC to start with). They uses ball bearing between diff housing and drive cup to eliminate friction wear. It comes assy but no oil yet inside.
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Old 12-26-2005, 05:34 PM
  #22762  
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Default Julius, Gear diff. Questions

Originally Posted by Julius
I've been using 30000W (from Hudy) with good results.
I have never used a gear diff and have some simple questions.

1. Would 30KW from Mugen be close to the Hudy oil?

2. Have you found changes in temperature require a change oil viscosity?
We have temps swings from 40 to 100 deg F during the year.

3. What range of oil should I have when I go to the track?

4. Do you seal the diff with something? And how often do you check the oil in the diff. Any helpful suggestions on filling the diff.

5. How long will the diff last before it requires a rebuild?

Thanks in advance

John
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Old 12-26-2005, 10:16 PM
  #22763  
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Originally Posted by Pyramid
Om Redsand, the diff housing (in volume) is particularly smaller than other brand such as kyosho or mugen. It will feel (very) slightly lighter with the same oil (30000wt is common for JITC to start with). They uses ball bearing between diff housing and drive cup to eliminate friction wear. It comes assy but no oil yet inside.
So in theory, the new Serpent bevel diff needs thicker oil to compensate its smaller housing, doesn't it ?
I'm still working on painting the new truck body at the moment. I will put up some pics when done painting. Hey, have you got the payment yet ?

BTW, how does the car perform while using bevel gears as opposed to ball diff ? Any major significant improvements in terms of handling ? Which setup do you like better ?

Last edited by redsand; 12-26-2005 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 12-27-2005, 02:17 AM
  #22764  
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Originally Posted by wolfejohne
I have never used a gear diff and have some simple questions.

1. Would 30KW from Mugen be close to the Hudy oil?

2. Have you found changes in temperature require a change oil viscosity?
We have temps swings from 40 to 100 deg F during the year.

3. What range of oil should I have when I go to the track?

4. Do you seal the diff with something? And how often do you check the oil in the diff. Any helpful suggestions on filling the diff.

5. How long will the diff last before it requires a rebuild?

Thanks in advance

John
1. Don't know, but the thicker diff oils seem to be more comparable than the shock oils.

2. One of the good things of silicone is that the viscosity is quite constant with temp.

3. 20k - 50k would be a good bet I guess

4. The serpent diff is sealed by three O-rings. 2 on the outdrives and one between the two halves. It should be almost leak free. A tip is to use a little bit of very thick sticky grease on the o-rings at the outdrives (lightly coat the o-ring and then install).

5. The gears last a long time. I'm still using te first set since the EC in Halifax (august). Also the outdrives seem to wear less than the ball diff. I check the diff when I do a teardown of the car and then I will make sure the amount of oil is still sufficient.
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Old 12-27-2005, 02:22 AM
  #22765  
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Originally Posted by redsand
So in theory, the new Serpent bevel diff needs thicker oil to compensate its smaller housing, doesn't it ?
I'm still working on painting the new truck body at the moment. I will put up some pics when done painting. Hey, have you got the payment yet ?

BTW, how does the car perform while using bevel gears as opposed to ball diff ? Any major significant improvements in terms of handling ? Which setup do you like better ?
As the diff is in a different car and has slightly different sizes it is difficult to really compare the numbers to other cars. But I do believe 30k is a very good start for most tracks. I'd be surprised if less than 20k or more than 50k works though.

Maybe Piramid has a different opinion, but for me the oil diff is a big improvement. The only drawback that it is not easily adjustable as the ball diff. But it's consistency and better on throttle behaviour are big plusses. And it's far easier to build and maintain. If you look back a page in the thread I've posted some more comments on the handling differences.
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:41 AM
  #22766  
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Originally Posted by redsand
So in theory, the new Serpent bevel diff needs thicker oil to compensate its smaller housing, doesn't it ?
The way I see is yes. Same thing with the old style shock piston. When using the fixed piston, you can fill a bit more oil inside shock body thus make it a bit heavier.

Originally Posted by redsand
I'm still working on painting the new truck body at the moment. I will put up some pics when done painting. Hey, have you got the payment yet ?
I believe payment is received, thanks

Originally Posted by redsand
BTW, how does the car perform while using bevel gears as opposed to ball diff ? Any major significant improvements in terms of handling ? Which setup do you like better ?
I have no idea since I could not run the car.. always rainning. I think I will just try them in Nitro Tourer Hong Kong, this upcoming January. Please read Julius comment on handling. Anyhow, consistancy should be the key here.

Bro, why dont I just sent you one and just return it back to me. if you dont like it. I`m sure I will need more than one set so I no need to mesh with re putting different oil to match the track condition at a given time.
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:51 AM
  #22767  
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Hi Chris, I`m seeing you online... can you post some setups that works for ACO tracks? Save me some setting time here buddy, I like to have more time for shopping in HongKong Thx
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:56 AM
  #22768  
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Originally Posted by Pyramid


I have no idea since I could not run the car.. always rainning. I think I will just try them in Nitro Tourer Hong Kong, this upcoming January. P
look forward to race with u again.. been too long.
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Old 12-27-2005, 06:09 AM
  #22769  
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Originally Posted by Pyramid
Hi Chris, I`m seeing you online... can you post some setups that works for ACO tracks? Save me some setting time here buddy, I like to have more time for shopping in HongKong Thx
if I give u the setting, u will kick my butt again

here u go, I will be there from Thursday.
front solid, Rear 30k gear diff (race day 40k)
front camber 2.5, droop +1 , 35W oil
Rear camber 4, droop +7, 35W oil
Front toe +0.5 each side
rear right 2, rear left 1.5

Rest are like stock setting.
Very easy layout this time, should not take u more than 1/2 day to set but prepare your biggest horsessss cause only 1 slow corner, rest is up to your engine..wwooooooo
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Old 12-27-2005, 06:16 AM
  #22770  
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Originally Posted by kitracer
if I give u the setting, u will kick my butt again

here u go, I will be there from Thursday.
front solid, Rear 30k gear diff (race day 40k)
front camber 2.5, droop +1 , 35W oil
Rear camber 4, droop +7, 35W oil
Front toe +0.5 each side
rear right 2, rear left 1.5

Rest are like stock setting.
Very easy layout this time, should not take u more than 1/2 day to set but prepare your biggest horsessss cause only 1 slow corner, rest is up to your engine..wwooooooo
Chris, 2 questions: what about front oneway? and why rear left toe is different than its right?

About the engine, if mine could not follow you, I think you will let me try yours then
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