Re: Servos
 

As 200mm cars are pretty light, you don't need much torque - in my second 710 I use the small Futaba 9550 digital servos - they "only" have 6kg of torque.

As for mixing servos, I don't know of any problems and I don't think there should be any advantages/disadvantages except in the price.

Look more towards the weight, size and speed of the servos when making your choice. Most people like the steering servo to be very quick and the throttle to be a bit slower.

Here's a servo chart which shows a comparison between a good selection of different servos -> Servo Chart

Having seen them close up at the Winternats and how well they performed out-of-the-box, I can certainly confirm what D said.

Re: Re: Servos
 

Phew ! For the moment I thought it was Master Rene or Julius there... :sweat: http://www.3hobby.net/images/blocks/...x/icon_bow.gif

Re: Servos
 

What Mark said pretty sums up almost everything. :D

I myself am using KO 2144 (just died) on throttle and Futaba S9451 on steering. The 2144 is slower (0.13 s) but it's high torque 13 kg.

Anyway, I'm looking to replace it with a Sanwa WRX servo and swap the steering S9451 to throttle and use the WRX for steering. Oh yes, I'm using 3PK HRS for what it's worth.

Thanks guys, for the much appreciated advice...:nod:

Re: Re: Re: Servos
 

:lol: :lol: Such flattery

Hi can any one tell me what is the difference between the Mega Power Pack M12 Race Outlaw and Mega Powerpack Legal ZX12 Race W/ZX12 Exhaust.

Bouth have the same price in RC-Mushroom.

Outlaw engines have more power than the race legal versions.
The legal version has to meet various criteria which is layed down by the governing body, be that IFMAR, EFRA, ROAR or whatever.
The outlaw version doesn't comply to these rules and can therefore be made more powerful by having items which the rules wouldn't allow.

But if you want to race, unless there is a class for outlaw engines, then you want a race legal engine.

Cheers, Mark.

Re: Re: Re: Kawahara dogbones
 

Hi InitialD

Here are a pic of the Kawahara dogbones used first by Glenn and now by me.
There 3.2 mm thick; total length are 65 mm and the length between pins are 59 mm. I am sure if it alu or steel, but my feeling is they are alu.

Regards

Claus

Thanks D :-)

google > spell check > Im feeling lucky >>precisely>>

Re: Pyramid
 

Hi Bro.. you just never missed a think:nod: :nod: With one ways, I just can`t keep a close distance with someone in front of me otherwise either I hit them before entering a corner or get hit from behind because my car spins from the results of breaking with 1ways. That`s the only reason I try running solid which in fact give me more on throttle steering in sweeper as well. Off throtlle is not as bad as I tough it would be since with solid I`m automatically having a perfect drag brake either. Just notice after the race, I think solid gave me less fuel milage (compared to our team member, kris heriana who prefer running one way). He can do refuelling about 20secs after.

There will be a race in Shanghai on 3-4/May.. plan to come? Those ussual factory guys we meet in Thailand are expected to be there as well.

Re: Re: Pyramid
 

Looks like you have been really busy lately... ;)

Same here... :( Anyway I find that with the solid front, you get more consistant laps. Well, not exactly as fast as when running a oneway front...

Useful I think if you're doing a long main and especially useful if you are chasing the leader or have to drive more aggressively to pressure someone in the front... :sneaky:

Yes, I find I get a more stable on throttle steering as well compared to oneways...

True. On large and open tracks, it's pretty nice to have automatic drag brakes... We're now driving on a more small and technical track and you can quickly notice that off power steering really suffers with a solid front when you need to take the tight turn.

I found using a higher rear roll center cures the problem a little as the rear of the car rotates around the corner better.

I guess you're on throttle more than with oneways in which you can glide more in the infields.

:cry: China is pretty far off. With Thailand, we could use cheaper airlines to get our butts there... :(

A few more questions about your setup bro...

1. I noticed you tightened the rear diff fully also? :confused: That would make it front AND rear solid... No?

2. Did you use 46T rear diff with the front solid? Perhaps that's why you did not notice so much loss in off power steering...

3. How's the tire wear? I find running front solid gives really even tire wear even without running front overdrives... Useful I think if you're doing a long main.

4. Hey, perhaps your good result is due to using the KO Helios ! :cry:

Re: Re: Pyramid
 

If there is Thai drivers (except Suruth and Surikarn) races oversea that would be once in a lifetime opportunity to watch :lol: Yes D, I think someone is falling in love with KO Helios now ;)

Re: Re: Re: Pyramid
 

I always run the rear diff 100% locked to avoid 'things that I tought might be the case of something'... wait.. I'm also a bit lost here:lol: :lol: You know like warm the diff colar first, warm the brake pad, etc.. those thing will come in effect (I imagine) as well if I have my diff like, say, 70% locked. It wont be 70% locked when they are either cold, warm or hot. 100% would be a solid consistent number, so other thing I adjust would remain valid. It wont make the rear solid, It works almost like a gear diff now.

Yes, I believe soo.. side 21T with 3mm split and 45T rear diff should do the same job.

Until now, I notice a slightly more even split between F/R. With 1ways and the way I drive, start with 2.5mm split, after 45 mins I usually ended up with 1.5mm split. With the recent used of solid (but this is in different track I used to play), I ended up with 2mm split after 45mins.

I just forgot to asked our Singaporean friends to bring along those Li-po Helios batteries. Hobylink Team, it was great to see you all again. Still got spyder webs after 20mins. Handles better than 3pk but without added failsafe, no safe mind.