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Originally posted by Taylor-Racing He did said he would happily swap a 710 for an iPod and that you two might discuss the intriguing mysteries surrounding myopic brand loyalties. :lol: |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up
Originally posted by Fernando_M Pins: Serpent P/N 808327 Sadly, Serpent discontinued the tool that made it easy to replace the pins. I don't know of any other company that manufactures it. |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up
Originally posted by jag So how do you replace those pins? It looks like a real pain in the but. |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up
Originally posted by thamjk So during winter in europe, anyone playing? I think they need heater rather then heat sink.:) As for heater ... yes, sometimes we run our 1:1 car's heater and put the 1:10 car inside to warm it up before starting. Once started though you can still overheat the engine if you lean it too much. :rolleyes: |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up
Originally posted by InitialD I use the old fashion way of a hammer and a vice... To aid in pushing the pin out of the dogbone, I use a smaller than 3 mm pin (broken 1.5 mm hex driver) with the aid of the hammer to push it out. |
I have a real question, now - hope D is still talking to me. :D
Do you guys think it's feasable to put a Mugen clutch bell on a 710 clutch? Anyone tried it? Just from "looking" it appears the 710 clutch would be somewhat longer and the bell/shoe contact angle looks different, too. :confused: TIA |
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing I have a real question, now - hope D is still talking to me. :D Do you guys think it's feasable to put a Mugen clutch bell on a 710 clutch? Anyone tried it? Just from "looking" it appears the 710 clutch would be somewhat longer and the bell/shoe contact angle looks different, too. :confused: TIA |
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing Do you guys think it's feasable to put a Mugen clutch bell on a 710 clutch? Anyone tried it? I've not tried it but I don't think it'll fit since the 710 clutch shoes are of smaller diameter than the Mugen's. If you wanted to fit the Mugen clutch shoe on a 705 clutch, then that could be possible. BTW, the yellow shoes with modded clutch flyweights is already giving too much wheel spins on the 710. |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up
Originally posted by jag I assume you use a similar method to install the new one? Doesn't the vice squeeze the dogbone and make it more difficult to get the pin in and out? Are you using the sprung steel 835 dogbones? |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up
Originally posted by InitialD I use the old fashion way of a hammer and a vice... To aid in pushing the pin out of the dogbone, I use a smaller than 3 mm pin (broken 1.5 mm hex driver) with the aid of the hammer to push it out. Never fails :nod: |
Originally posted by InitialD Now you're really stretching it ! :lol: Why would one do it? :rolleyes: Red clutch shoes? :o Besides pinion wise, you would be in trouble as the ratio will be too tall. I've not tried it but I don't think it'll fit since the 710 clutch shoes are of smaller diameter than the Mugen's. If you wanted to fit the Mugen clutch shoe on a 705 clutch, then that could be possible. BTW, the yellow shoes with modded clutch flyweights is already giving too much wheel spins on the 710. Nah, the 705 clutch isn't anything special, but the 710 one is very good, I think. But your right of course, the 710 shoe is of smaller diameter - forgot about that. :rolleyes: I guess I could machine down the Mugen bell, but would I just be machining off the angled section that contacts the shoe? I guess the question is, what's the OD of the 710 clutch bell? And yeah, I could tame the wheelspin. :sneaky: |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up
Originally posted by jag I assume you use a similar method to install the new one? Doesn't the vice squeeze the dogbone and make it more difficult to get the pin in and out? I think cheapskate D's ;) method is to just crack open the vice enough so that when you hammer the pin, the pin will pass down the gap in the slightly open vice. You can also use, say, a 6mm nut sitting on the vice (or anything heavy/solid) to support the round part of the doggie while you hammer the pin out. Yes, I've been a cheapskate, on occasion, too. :blush: |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up
Originally posted by Fernando_M I use an even older fashion way: borrow the tool from a friend. :sneaky: Never fails :nod: |
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing jag, I think cheapskate D's ;) method is to just crack open the vice enough so that when you hammer the pin, the pin will pass down the gap in the slightly open vice. You can also use, say, a 6mm nut sitting on the vice (or anything heavy/solid) to support the round part of the doggie while you hammer the pin out. Yes, I've been a cheapskate, on occasion, too. :blush: BTW, it takes one cheapskate to know the other. And I think you would agree that cheapskateness :lol: is paramount to RC survival.:nod: :D |
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing I'm looking to fit a 710 clutch to a MTX-3. But anyway, why don't you change the clutch completely to the Centax 3? That would eliminate the problem since you will use the Centax 3 flywheel and all their internals. Just make sure your engine mounting height is 14.5 mm with a 4 mm chassis. Or better still change the car to a 710? :sweat: :lol: |
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