jfc_tech

iTrader: (4)

from us here, i think 2-3 guys...or maybe 4...a few Mugen guys buying 710...and testing them now on track. My Friends from HMS Racing should be there.

InitialD

Yes, it'll be good to finally meet up with Gary and Chris.

Sow&Steady

Wouldn't that make the bar itself go up and down rather than rotate around its own axis within the holder?

Sow&Steady

FJC, you convinced them to do this?

InitialD

It stays perfect as it is. You would not notice that a 3 mm plastic holder was used after install.

InitialD

Dark side hard at work.

jfc_tech

iTrader: (4)

i have to race & beat them on track in order for them to witness the power of 710...especially in the hand of me...only once in A-main.
yep...u can say that...i manage to influence them..but its actually Gary doin all the work....i just 'fan' them on track with my reliable Nova Max
i think im the only one left with all original 710 parts...well, ok...the bumper i change(after high speed stoppage by the bricks ..thats all.

jfc_tech

iTrader: (4)

its actually 4 guys...One got fed up with Gary keep winning with his 710 & his MTX3 on 2nd. Another 1...bcoz i force him...im not lending him any tools or starterbox, or even the glow plug in the pit area. i said..u have to change....
yea right...why im promoting this 710 thing...i also don know...at least i got discount from lhs here.

JustRace

I'm using the 2.5mm with it's intended plastic piece. It's not binding and is very smooth movement. I haven't tried it with the 3mm plastic but I would think it would cause a little bit of a slop.

Sow&Steady

Well done man! Nothing better than letting your driving and your car doing the work on the track.

Sow&Steady

That's what I thought too because I'm using the 3mm with its intended holder and it seems smooth. Not loose but smooth.

Maybe D tightens the screws down enough to prevent slop.

VenomWorldOrder

can someone post here and pm me (i don't check this forum often) the easy way to take the two speed out??! every time i have to take the side brace of i need to take the entire shaft and two speed out!

also is there a way of taking the motor out without having to loosen the motor mount screws that attach to the motor? (ie the top screws)

also is there a way to adjust the active toe washers? they seem very figetty and the only easy way seems to take the whole back end assembly off?

i bought this car second hand. my old car was a easy peasy mugen (i am currently racing craig1's serpent, the modified 710 which he may of posted pics of in the past)

jag

I remove my engine by taking the left (drivers) side chassis brace off and unscrewing the mount from the bottom. I find that easier than removing the 4 screws that hold the engine to the mount.

InitialD

Don't get me wrong... I'm not saying the intended 2.5 mm plastic piece holder is binding the rear sway bars for me... The 3 mm plastic piece holder works fine for me on the 2.5 mm rear sway bar. In the event that I need to swap to the 3 mm sway bar during my testings, I do not need to keep reverting to different sway bar plastic holders.

InitialD

I don't think I get you... You want to take out the 2 speed gearbox? Why do you need to take out the shaft to access the 2 speed?

The only easy way is to do is like what jag has described. Take out the left CF brace (3 x M3 button head screws) and loosen the 4 x M4 screws under the chassis.

Else, the other way is to take out the 4 x M3 screws that mount the engine crankcase to the engine mounts like what you've mentioned. Easy if you have 2.5 mm ball tip allens (Pyramid !), then it's easier. Then you do not need to take off the engine heatsink to access these 4 x M3 screws to take the engine off.

I personally find that it's easier to take the complete rear part off the chassis to access these small DRS aluminum washers. Just loosen 1 screw from the brace from left and the other 1 screw from the right that both CF braces attach to the rear left and right bulkheads. Take out the brake linkage collar in the rear. Then unscrew all the Phillips under the chassis for the rear part of the car and the whole rear part including the gearbox, 2 speed shaft and the rear diff should be in one unit. You can then easily access these washers.

Anyway, why do you want to play with them? Stick to the neutral position. It should be more than enough. After you've exhausted the rest of the settings, then perhaps you can play with the DRS.