Serpent 710
10-02-2004, 05:44 AM
Are you still running a MAX?
10-02-2004, 05:46 AM
Originally posted by Picard
Are you still running a MAX?
Are you still running a MAX?
10-02-2004, 05:51 AM
Mugen Pressure Chamber
Hi Guys,
I'm thinking of using the mugen pressure chamber on my 710 but would like some feedback from you guys on the pro's and con's of this device.
Thanks
I'm thinking of using the mugen pressure chamber on my 710 but would like some feedback from you guys on the pro's and con's of this device.
Thanks
10-02-2004, 05:53 AM
I need a new P & S for my S5 but the Max one is so expensive, I was thinking about getting a NSR P & S. Is that what you are running in yours? Or does that fall under the secret engine talk
List
List
10-02-2004, 05:55 AM
Re: Mugen Pressure Chamber
Originally posted by B4
Hi Guys,
I'm thinking of using the mugen pressure chamber on my 710 but would like some feedback from you guys on the pro's and con's of this device.
Thanks
Hi Guys,
I'm thinking of using the mugen pressure chamber on my 710 but would like some feedback from you guys on the pro's and con's of this device.
Thanks
10-02-2004, 05:58 AM
Re: Re: Mugen Pressure Chamber
Originally posted by Picard
There is a guy I know at our track that is running one, I haven't paid much attention but his car runs well
There is a guy I know at our track that is running one, I haven't paid much attention but his car runs well
I haven't seen anyone running one yet, but my guess is that it will dampen the pressure going to the tank thus smoothing the power delivery. But than again I could be completly wrong.
10-02-2004, 06:01 AM
Originally posted by Picard
I need a new P & S for my S5 but the Max one is so expensive, I was thinking about getting a NSR P & S. Is that what you are running in yours? Or does that fall under the secret engine talk
List
I need a new P & S for my S5 but the Max one is so expensive, I was thinking about getting a NSR P & S. Is that what you are running in yours? Or does that fall under the secret engine talk
List
You could use the NSR piston sleeve set. I think most are trying to get away from the microcasted piston due to their durability. So if you can, try to get the NS piston sleeve set instead for your Max.
10-02-2004, 06:05 AM
Re: Mugen Pressure Chamber
Originally posted by B4
Hi Guys,
I'm thinking of using the mugen pressure chamber on my 710 but would like some feedback from you guys on the pro's and con's of this device.
Thanks
Hi Guys,
I'm thinking of using the mugen pressure chamber on my 710 but would like some feedback from you guys on the pro's and con's of this device.
Thanks
) solved his JP FX engine tuning problems.Anyway, the pressure chamber is commonly used in the 1/8th scale. It apparently solves the problem of the engine leaning after a high speed sweeper. The smaller 1/10th scale engines and cars are not fast enough to cause that kind of effect (I think).
10-02-2004, 06:15 AM
Tech Regular
what size should i amek my fue lien and the line form my pipe to gas tank? whats diff do sizes make i no they do maek a diff
10-02-2004, 02:42 PM
Originally posted by Picard
Ohh...I see..
Now that Mark cant get onto the forum it is safe to put up the secret setup
Thanks Sow, that is not too far off the setup I will run.
Ohh...I see..
Now that Mark cant get onto the forum it is safe to put up the secret setup
Thanks Sow, that is not too far off the setup I will run.
10-02-2004, 02:44 PM
Originally posted by InitialD
Don't forget microscope too.
Don't forget microscope too.
Onkel Sow, just something to note. I see that you mount the steering link (or speering link as you call it ) on the top of the servo saver. If you use the highest front roll center setting (no shims), the steering linkages will rub and bind against the upper bulkhead position.
) on the top of the servo saver. If you use the highest front roll center setting (no shims), the steering linkages will rub and bind against the upper bulkhead position.
Thanks for telling me because obviously mounting the steering link this way removes the possibility of having the lowering the upper arms.
10-02-2004, 02:50 PM
Originally posted by Bxclip
what size should i amek my fue lien and the line form my pipe to gas tank? whats diff do sizes make i no they do maek a diff
what size should i amek my fue lien and the line form my pipe to gas tank? whats diff do sizes make i no they do maek a diff
What are the lengths of your lines now?
They do make a diff but its not critical. Tune your engine to run reliably first and giving good power with your pipe "singing". If you're still not happy by this only then worry about fuel line lengths.
Is you use the stock line as given in your kit for the pipe-to-tank and then use the other fuel line for your engine but cut short to route from the tank to the carb (by going in front of the engine), you should be close already.
10-03-2004, 11:56 AM
Tech Rookie
I am looking at getting a 710... i am just wondering if and what hop-ups are recommened for this car?
10-03-2004, 12:07 PM
Tech Regular
none its sick already
10-03-2004, 12:11 PM
Tech Regular
Re: Options
Originally posted by 840918001
Hi SERPENTFREAK69,
Now I have some more time.
Have been very bussy at work.
I use these options all on my chassis.
For me it works great, but every driver is different.
If you for example look at the car of Julius Kolff and Micheal Salven you will find out that they are both fast on the same track (Heemstede), but their parts used can be very different, and is different.
Micheal is never using the Alu-X-bracket, and Julius always use it.
The hop-ups work for me, but I can't guarantee that it will work for you s well.
I will work my way through the cars parts from front to back.
Partnumbers are included.
Up front I use the Alu anti-roll bar bevels.
They reduce flex, and are more easy to tune.
# 802241
I made a small cutout in the frontbumper to mount the transponder underneat the frontbumperholder (like Micheal Salven did on his car).
I did make the SWB-mod. I modifeid the front wheelbase. More info on that can be found here:
http://3hobby.com/modules.php?name=N...rder=0&thold=0
This really works great on high speed tracks with very tight hairpins. You have the feeling like the car is much shorter and that will make it more stable during cornering.
I use the Alu middleshaft- bracket. It reduces flex on this part of the car, and is much smoother as the stock part.
Backdraft is the weigt. It's more heavy as the stock part.
# 802155
To reduce weight, I use the light pulleys on the middle shaft (2), and on the 2 speed shaft ( on the side pulley).
# 802165 (2x)
I use the Alu-x-bracket. This to reduce flex, and it also looks very very nice
# 802136
I also use the pro tankbracket.
This will make the tank more "flexible" so the fuel won't shake that much, and will have not that much bubble's.
# 801157
For the brakes I use the vented brake disk. This due the fact that the vented disk is sort of selfcleaning during races.
I also use the pro brake-pads.
Disk: # 801345
Pads: #9607
In my diff I use the ceramic coated diff balls. These are very smooth, and ultra durable.
As grease I use the X-ray diff grease, since this is a high quality grease specially made for ball diff's.
Balls: # 1378
Grease: # 309500
On all four corners of the car I use the ST- rings.
These will make your bearings work better inside your upright's and steerinblocks.
# 802235
Inside my shocks I use the soft shock membrames, aswell as the shockcapfoamy's.
Set off foam and membrames: # 909446
I also have the set-up wheels. These are very nice and work great.
# 802831
I know I have a lot of hop-up's on my car, that some of you would consider as unnesecarry, but as I said, it is working for me.
The Alu shockbodies are not nesecarry in the Netherlands.
I find the stock composite shock very smooth, and working well.
I bought the car together with all the options, so I could easely build them in.
I went for these options instead of a set of titanium screws and ceramic bearings.
I know these Ti screws are very nice, but you need to have a very consistend driving style to prevent them from bending.
As for the bearings, I'm happy with the quality of the stock bearing.
I haven't used a front diff, or solid axle, because of the fact that it is not usefull on the tracks on wich I race.
This is it, I hope this is some usefull info for all of you.
Bye Thomas
Hi SERPENTFREAK69,
Now I have some more time.
Have been very bussy at work.
I use these options all on my chassis.
For me it works great, but every driver is different.
If you for example look at the car of Julius Kolff and Micheal Salven you will find out that they are both fast on the same track (Heemstede), but their parts used can be very different, and is different.
Micheal is never using the Alu-X-bracket, and Julius always use it.
The hop-ups work for me, but I can't guarantee that it will work for you s well.
I will work my way through the cars parts from front to back.
Partnumbers are included.
Up front I use the Alu anti-roll bar bevels.
They reduce flex, and are more easy to tune.
# 802241
I made a small cutout in the frontbumper to mount the transponder underneat the frontbumperholder (like Micheal Salven did on his car).
I did make the SWB-mod. I modifeid the front wheelbase. More info on that can be found here:
http://3hobby.com/modules.php?name=N...rder=0&thold=0
This really works great on high speed tracks with very tight hairpins. You have the feeling like the car is much shorter and that will make it more stable during cornering.
I use the Alu middleshaft- bracket. It reduces flex on this part of the car, and is much smoother as the stock part.
Backdraft is the weigt. It's more heavy as the stock part.
# 802155
To reduce weight, I use the light pulleys on the middle shaft (2), and on the 2 speed shaft ( on the side pulley).
# 802165 (2x)
I use the Alu-x-bracket. This to reduce flex, and it also looks very very nice
# 802136
I also use the pro tankbracket.
This will make the tank more "flexible" so the fuel won't shake that much, and will have not that much bubble's.
# 801157
For the brakes I use the vented brake disk. This due the fact that the vented disk is sort of selfcleaning during races.
I also use the pro brake-pads.
Disk: # 801345
Pads: #9607
In my diff I use the ceramic coated diff balls. These are very smooth, and ultra durable.
As grease I use the X-ray diff grease, since this is a high quality grease specially made for ball diff's.
Balls: # 1378
Grease: # 309500
On all four corners of the car I use the ST- rings.
These will make your bearings work better inside your upright's and steerinblocks.
# 802235
Inside my shocks I use the soft shock membrames, aswell as the shockcapfoamy's.
Set off foam and membrames: # 909446
I also have the set-up wheels. These are very nice and work great.
# 802831
I know I have a lot of hop-up's on my car, that some of you would consider as unnesecarry, but as I said, it is working for me.
The Alu shockbodies are not nesecarry in the Netherlands.
I find the stock composite shock very smooth, and working well.
I bought the car together with all the options, so I could easely build them in.
I went for these options instead of a set of titanium screws and ceramic bearings.
I know these Ti screws are very nice, but you need to have a very consistend driving style to prevent them from bending.
As for the bearings, I'm happy with the quality of the stock bearing.
I haven't used a front diff, or solid axle, because of the fact that it is not usefull on the tracks on wich I race.
This is it, I hope this is some usefull info for all of you.
Bye Thomas
I posted this message a couple of weeks ago.
Get those options.
For me it works great
Bye Thomas