AMGRacer

Yep you are right I forgot that one. I shimmed that out of my old car, strangely my 2005 does not seem to suffer from it.

bummy

just try this. pop your side belt of, then take it for a run and try keep it in straight line, dont gas it quick. see if it fixes it. if it does give the diff a go over. if not look else were. i know it be hard to really tell. but hey anything worth a try. cheers.

Chris West

It is quite hard to drive with rear wheel drive car (rear wheel drive 235mm cars have wider tyres) will turn to either way and probably wont be able go that far without spining out my belt came off during race once and it was just too hard to make the car go around the track so i called it quits.

Rapid Roy

For those of you with the TI screw set, are the heads hex or are they the heads phillips like the stock screws? Just wondering.

Chris West

2mm Hex

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Rapid Roy

Thanks for the quick reply.

bummy

what do you guys reckon about the stainless steel screws? as i just brought the kit for my car. cheers

justforfun

Thanks for the answers guy's!

I checked almost everything you suggested allready
It's time to let the Local shop take care off the problem, one thing is sure for me tho...I NEVER buy HPI again! Not even replying on my 10+ emails to their support department so that sucks.

I think Serpent will be the best next choice, made here in the Netherlands and their plant just 3 minutes away from where i live...should have gone serpent at first but the R40 kit had nice specs and looked to be a solid car.

I'll keep this updated if the problem should be found ..

Greetz, Ron

GBagRacing

iTrader: (1)

Hey Roy What was the fix for this problem as I'm starting to experience this on the LH bell crank. Should I shim from the bottom of the shaft or try from the top. Not sure if there's enough shaft to shim at the top though. I'm thinking there needs to be better mfg tolerance on the diff cover where it caps the bell crank shaft.

Rapid Roy

Hmm... I'm assuming that you are dealing with HPI Europe. Did you submit your question directly to support or did you use the link through the knowledge base support? Looks like HPI Europe isn't taking phone calls. You could try calling the US office. Just don't tell them you are calling from overseas. 1-949-753-1099 is the tech support number. Its really hard trying to help you without a little more discription. You are saying that your steering linkage is moving freeley with no binding at all? Have you tried a different servo? When checking for binding, try moving the steering using the linkage at the servo side to move the front wheels. Also make sure that your servo isn't mounded too close to the battery cover and that your servo wires arn't getting in the way of the linkage.

Every car has its issues. Just take a look at the 710 thread and all the stuff they do to that car. The customer support thing is puzzling though. I really can't comment too much on that since I am in the US. I usually come here first for any problems and usually get a pretty good response.

One last thought, have you tried disassembline the front end and rebuilding it? Make sure everything is nice and free as you are doing this. I have had steering binding issues from either overtightening somthing or a warped part or somthing being missaligned.

Rapid Roy

I haven't shimmed my steering because its never really caused any problems. Mine don't really lift. I just get a little bit of movement. You should be able to shim from the top or bottom as long as nothing binds. I seem to remember people shimming the top. I haven't had any tracking problems that wern't caused by my steering servo. Maybe one of the guys that did this mod can shed more light on it. I was thinking of shimming just because I like things nice and tight.

Rapid Roy

I have the RC Screwz set in one of my cars and its a love hate thing. Having all the connectors use a 2mm hex is great. They also seem really strong. The down side is that all the screws use machine threads. Even the long ones into plastic. It takes a loooooonngg time to remove and install these and it tends to heat up the plastic. Its also easier to strip out. I also have an issue with the fit of my 2mm driver and the screw head. I was told this is a tolerance issue between foreign and US (I got this info from RC Screws). They told me that the overseas versions suffers from an error in conversion of units during the manufacturing process. This doesn't really make sense to me since 2mm is 2mm and all the overseas companys use metric as there native unit and the US is the odball. I'd say the US is messing up, but either way my driver (overseas specs Thorp/MIP driver) is loose in the head (US specs) of the screws. Makes me just a bit nervous every time I need to really crank down on one.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Try calling them.

Rapid Roy

I just tried ordering from this site posted back a few pages.

http://www.fastnfuriousrc.com

I ordered the front and rear carbon fiber shock towers because they have them for %50 off. I selected the items and went to the checkout cart and saw that they wanted $14.50 to ship. The parts cost $20.10 together. Not such a good deal after all. I guess I'll give them a call tomorow and see if they will give me a better price on the shipping. For now I didn't complete the transaction.