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Old 01-16-2006, 11:14 AM
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Yeah thats classis r40. Mine was doing the same. Im not fully sure what it was, I know some think its the servo saver screw not tight enough....

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Old 01-16-2006, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
The lower rear arms are the same as the graphite arms. And my steering is much more tight than the old 2004 setup.
Are they graphite or are they just stiffer plastic?
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by bummy
AHAHH THAT IS COOL i want it hehe. were can i get it from. lost it a few times there i see., but cool hehe
http://www.virtualrc.com - its a free download for the game. The cool thing about the game you can get an old rx and hooks directly into the computer allowing you to use whatever your current radio is.

I actually just went and ordered one to see how it is. From what I hear its pretty good. Besides it too hard with the keyboard.
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:19 AM
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Also want to note to people who are looking for AAA packs with good storage. I saw some 950mah GP orange/green cells. I bet those can hang for awhile.
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Old 01-16-2006, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
Any idea on what is making the steering tighter then on the old steering?
The bearings seem to fit into the drag plate really well on my kit. It may be just a fluke with my particular kit, but there is 0 play and it is ultra smooth on mine. The slop still exists in the ballcups of course, but if you had of seen mine last Saturday it would not be a worry
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Old 01-16-2006, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Are they graphite or are they just stiffer plastic?
What I meant by same is they have the additional front droop hole and the 2 rear swaybar mount points rather than one. They appear to be the same material as the stock R40 arms.
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Old 01-16-2006, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Yeah thats classis r40. Mine was doing the same. Im not fully sure what it was, I know some think its the servo screw not tight enough....
I have not had a problem with mine centreing. The drag plate and the ballcups can be sloppy, make sure they are tight. Also screw the servo saver down until 2 threads show at the top of the post. Dont use Hitec servos, they never centre properly.
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Old 01-16-2006, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Also want to note to people who are looking for AAA packs with good storage. I saw some 950mah GP orange/green cells. I bet those can hang for awhile.
Yep I bought a pre-built pack of these for my 05. I charged them fully and went racing, 4 practice tanks, 3 x 5 minute races with 3 minute warmups and I pulled 500 mah out of them once I got back home. I use two digital servos as well.

Given a practice tank is 6 minutes and 8 minutes of race time, thats 48 minutes of runtime and I only half used the pack.
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Old 01-16-2006, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
I have not had a problem with mine centreing. The drag plate and the ballcups can be sloppy, make sure they are tight. Also screw the servo saver down until 2 threads show at the top of the post. Dont use Hitec servos, they never centre properly.
It's funny I NEVER had a centering problem with the R40 until I installed those bearings.
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Old 01-16-2006, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
I have not had a problem with mine centreing. The drag plate and the ballcups can be sloppy, make sure they are tight. Also screw the servo saver down until 2 threads show at the top of the post. Dont use Hitec servos, they never centre properly.
I tried one hitec servo and had a bad experience and returned it the day I bought it....it seemed to center fine but had some major delay and lag problems as well would rebound back when going full right from time to time.

Ill be sure to check that stuff out though. I think a good angled smack into a wall can cause this...basically whenever a dog bone gets bent. I drive a tight technical track , basically a p-lot track meant for electrics.

Got the pdub bumper now , that should eliminate some of those problems from now on.
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Old 01-16-2006, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Yep I bought a pre-built pack of these for my 05. I charged them fully and went racing, 4 practice tanks, 3 x 5 minute races with 3 minute warmups and I pulled 500 mah out of them once I got back home. I use two digital servos as well.

Given a practice tank is 6 minutes and 8 minutes of race time, thats 48 minutes of runtime and I only half used the pack.
Knew I should have snagged it, sounds good. Do you know how long your other packs could last?
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Old 01-16-2006, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
It's funny I NEVER had a centering problem with the R40 until I installed those bearings.
Yep it is a more complicated steering system than most nitro cars have, hence there is a greater potential for binding and slop. My only advice is to build the system up slowly piece by piece and after each step check that it is utterly free and has no or mininal slop. This is what I have always done and I cannot recall any time my car has not centred.
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Old 01-16-2006, 09:16 PM
  #9643  
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Knew I should have snagged it, sounds good. Do you know how long your other packs could last?
I have only used the HPI 800 and a Venom 1100 pack in my R40s. I have never run out of juice with either. However the longest races we normally run are 3 x 5 minutes and 1 x 20 minute with some additional practice. Most people I see run 800+ packs and can make a 30 minute final easily.

If you run an exceptionally long final give the battery a bit of charge between heats.
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Old 01-17-2006, 05:42 AM
  #9644  
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Default My R40 is for sale....check it out.

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.p...54#post2074054
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Old 01-17-2006, 07:37 AM
  #9645  
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Please

Where can i buy complete centax+flywheel for my R40
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