HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum

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  • Thanks. I will have to print this out and bring it with me to the track. I have a Kyosho/Exergen temp gun that I have to track down. Last I saw the wife was using it to play with the cats. I'll have to convert that F to C, too. I'm sure your method works just fine.

    Quote:
    Originally posted by JAG Racing
    Buy yourself a temperature gun - well worth the $$$.

    Basically you will adjust the top-end mixture for a head temperature of around 220 - 240 AFTER making a few hotlaps. Make sure you are driving the car as you will be racing it - HARD.

    Once the top-end is set, then you'll work to adjust the low-end ( the screw that is accessed from the front of the car ( and it is usually a bear to access ). Never adjust the mid-range ( the easy one to access from the rear ). You will adjust the low-end so the engine has good throttle punch off the line BUT it also should leave a trace of smoke on acceleration.... anyway , that my method and I'm sure it isnt the best.. Good luck!
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by Rapid Roy
    There are a couple of ways to fix your clearance problem between the tire and header. ... Most people would just buy a new header, but I'm just a cheap SOB, so I'd just straighten out the bent one.
    You, my friend, are my type of cheap SOB! Thanks!, you have possibly saved me lots of money (for the time being) and made chasing setups a little easier. I just want to get good in rookie class before I get serious and splurge on a nasty good motor (well, even when I do "splurge" I only wanna spend $150 at most!).
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by Benzoil
    onnetz, when I adjust as per your instructions the boss does not rotate at all within the shoes, ie it is now a solid axle. Is this correct?
    as Harkonnend said, you should be able to move it a small amount.. not totally locked in place..
  • ok thanks guys will post back after live testing tommorrow
  • are most of you using an 1/8 scale air filter?
    Obviously this could depend on the engine but I was thinking about giving mine a little more breathing room...
  • Take your curent filter and blow air through it. If it's restrictive at all, pick up one of those off-road motor savers. They're overkill, but they work very well.
  • I only use 1/8 buggy filters I find them to be much less restrictive then the typical 1/10 onroad filters. some people don't like them call em cheap if you want to but i've been running them for the last 5 years and haven't had a single problem with em yet, just put a lil grease on the top and bottom to ensure a good seal and your good to go.
  • Wow. I think I just cooked my starter box battery. I have a hanger 9 battery and charger for it. I heard your supposed to charge them 12 hours. Lucky me mine didnt come with instructions...

    Well I was figuring it was a peak charger. So it would shut off on its own. Well I let it charge about 10 hours and thought ok Im not going to let it run during the night.

    So I shut it off. About 1 I restarted it the next day to watch it and complete the last 2 hours. I then got sidetracked and let it run for another 7....ouch.

    I go in and im like damn that light is still on. I hope its a peak. I touched the battery and it was pretty cool.

    So im just sitting there thinking hmmmm. I then go, whats that noise....is it raining outside???

    Then I get close to the battery and I hear boiling and hissing. I was like damn....unplugged the charger immediatly and said. Yup not a peak charger. Ill have to get those wall timers.

    But man that sucked. I hope itll be ok. I think im going to go use it to at least drain some of the extra energy.

    Nothing seems to have leaked.


    So im wondering. Do they make peak chargers for these types of batteries. I think its a lead-acid battery. 12V 700ah battery. Does anything like the duratrax ice handle lead acid batteries?

    Heh, well off to go run this.
  • Sometimes I wish we had our own forum. Cause here comes another question totally off that subject.

    What do you people think of the HPI Turbo Glow Plugs? Are they any good. Whats a good turbo glow plug? Or the best one you have used.

    Also if you can please include.

    What temp range the plug is
    What fuel you use
    What motor you run it on
    How many shims if any

    Also, Did anyone have a hard time finding the right combo. I have been having lots of trouble finding that sweet spot on my motor and it constantly flames out. If anyone had any trouble like and switched to something that fixed the problem.

    Thanks greatly for the input.
  • I'm back!

    I used my neo red medium springs in the front and stock black in the rear. Lil fidling with the spacers and WOW-the car is HOOKED!!! For a parking lot the car is dialed in big time. It set just the way I want it with not too much over or understeer. Very hard to spin out, but it will slide in the turns a little depending on the throttle and how hard I steer. I love the Rody engine. This badboy runs strong and it idles all day. I'm still using the restrictor though and it flies! One thing though it seems as if the engine ran lean for a little so I'm gonna break down the car and inspect. Final tuning for the race between my buddy's R40 with Roar Rody V12 turbo 3 port will hopefully be 2morrow. Thats when we run back and forth then go for the drag. IT'S ON!!!! HOwever, surely my R40 will win. It's dialed into the lot so it's ready.
  • I use my triton for all my batts it does nicad, nimh, li ion, lead acid and li-po

  • finally!!!
    I got my problems figured out with my high revving r40. I dont want to talk about how stupid it was. But, now to the good. Im getting my exhaust gaskets on wed hopefully and I will finally be able tro drive it for real.
    Thanks for the help

    EDIT: Do do you make the clutch engage EARLIER, left or right on the clutch nut?
  • haha, i'm still using that good 'ol superbrain

    im pushing to hit up floyd bennet this or next weekend.. ill let you guys know
  • Counterclockwise (loosening the nut)
    The minimum I would loosen the nut is to 1/2 a thread. Make sure to use teflon tape or blue locktite on the clutchnut threads!! The stock nut is prone to moving a bit after some runs.

    Quote:
    Originally posted by nitroracer20
    EDIT: Do do you make the clutch engage EARLIER, left or right on the clutch nut?
  • LMK how it goes. I go back to work on Saturday so I won't be able to take off Saturday. I'll try to go weekdays.

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