regg151

just pay cloose attention to the clutch assembly, and take it easy on the two speed clutch shoes as they can be fragile.

another tip remove the screws from the bags first and sort them out will speed up the build process as you won't be looking for the odd screws in 3 different bags.

take your time and build it right.

KLANDERMAN

k_brian

Congratulations!!! you are the proud owner of the best 1/10 SEDAN...
The R'40 is easy to put together if you have had experience putting thEm together in the past.
Like REGG says, pay close attention to the clutch assembly and to the steering brace, sometimes you can overtight the screws and your car wont steer correctly.
Make sure to go step by step and take your time with it. Also make sure you put the right oil-grease on the diff cases, Front diff uses oil substance... fill it up just right and rear diff use light coat, just to have them working properly. Dont fill up the rear diff as this will make your diff hard and your car will lose control when punching it after tight turns.

also make sure to put the shocks and have them at the right size, what I mean is to have them all at the same lenght. I believe is 64mm to 65 mm in height.
Other than that the manual is self explanatory

If you need any help, let us know and will try to help you in anyway... feel free to post pictures of your car as you are putting it together.
later and good luck!!!

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Well said. Couldn't have said it better.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Where did you get it from?

k_brian

i got from my LHS from sg.
Thanks for your help klanderman.
If you guys dont mind can share some setup with me but i got none to share..
klanderman Where are you from??

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Anyone else know where you can get a 2004 edition kit?

Where or what is SG? What is the name of your hobbyshop and how much did you pay?

KLANDERMAN

You can grt it at www.rcmart,com
I believe that's the ASIA edition with the LW chasis, graphite shock towers, LW engine mounts, LW shafts etc...

KLANDERMAN

HARK if you really go 1/8 let me know how expensive it gets and all the tips I need, just in case I wanna go into the 1/8 scene, but if I do go n I'll porbably keep my R-40 and save some $1,500 USD to start in the 1/8 class, although we don't race that category here, just sedans and serpents impact M2 235mm. I would be the only one to have 1/8, which is why I'd like it, I'd probably be the fastest one lol...
Good luck and let me know what you are doing ok.

KLANDERMAN

I'm from Guatemala, Central America.

KLANDERMAN

HARK: the videoclips was sent!!! check it out...

KLANDERMAN

Well let's see. I can give you the set up I use.
ride height: front 4mm Rear 5mm
Camber 2 degrees front, 2.5 degrees rear (negative right)
Front toe-in none, Rear toe-in 2.5 degres in
I don't use the swaybar
Tires I use ellegi front 37 shore, Rear 35 shore
I have the stock shocks with the stock oil
the lenght on each shock is 64mm in height
for the 2 speed tranny I have the LW tranny, for my track since it has a very long straight I use 60T spur and 22T pinion for the first gear and 53T spur and 28T pinion for the second, Tomorrow I will try the 29T pinion for more top end. Like the advice I got, try playing with the pinions first, try not to touch the spurs, those are for fine tunning, youll get more difference from switching the pinions.
Aerodynamics... Well it works, I use a nissan 350z body and now I'm going to try the dodge stratus aero II, and a lola body which will give me lots of downforce...
I use a oneway bearing diff in the front
rear diff with a light cover of grease, very little!!!
I use aluminum pulleys stock, with the middle 23T pulley
Engine: I use a team orion WASP turbo engine, lots of power
header: also team orion with the pipe
mmm... Have all the graphite parts, the towers, the braces, the suspension mounts and use titanium shafts for the front and 2 speed tranny
Chassis: I use the LW chassis and soon to get the titanium pivot balls and screws
mmm I don't know what else, but if you have any trouble let us know...

gibbous

iTrader: (10)

Klan - you were going to post some pics of your wiring for me?

Hey wangcc61! Thanks! I know you like to save the weight, but I sat there moving my throttle back and forth and was kind of worried about the delay in response time. It could just be the transition time I'm seeing, so I will probably give it a try and see how it goes. I'm picking up the final part I need today from Pegasus (pesky clutch bell bearing) and I'm ready to break in the engine!

KLANDERMAN

yep, I forgot my camera at home, but let me see if I have some pics of the wireing in my laptop ok

KLANDERMAN

sorry bro, no pics here, but here is what you do, get the wire separately and pass one wire at a time, I believe the batery holder has 2 lumps, one on each side, this work to secure the wire in place while you go aroudn the baterry close to the steering servo horn and then you passed it behind the lump and go into the receiver case. I passed eac wire at a time and it works ok, looks nice and clean, I'll try to get those pics for you on my lunch break ok...

gibbous

iTrader: (10)

Thanks, Klan, I'll mess around with it when I get home. I wish I could bring my R40 to work!