fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

hey puma....


no matter what HPI says,every HPI car I have has the metal shocks,and every one of them felt smoother...esp the long stroke shocks on the rally and MT's.....

if you build the metal shocks for the r40,get the clear silicone low friction seals from HPI....Also,use green slime (associated)...really helps seal them..

I'm building my car short wheelbase...I always try to get as much steering as possible..if I need less,I dial some out...

I'm going to do the carbon shock towers..just for looks...

The floating body mount I'm not sure of...its supposed to take away steering....not something I'm looking for...

Metal pulleys also..though I'll wait to see if they come out aftermarket from a good company before I buy hpi's(so I can get them cheaper)...

chorner

Thats what I was hinting on dude good you picked it up. Although I was also getting at the fact that you also cannot take the results too literally regardless, as no company posts the races they have lost. Every company posts only the wins. With exception to Serpent on myTSN I see them posting results where they aren't in 1st often, but rather in the top 3 which I find cool.

You don't see Mugen, AE, Yokomo, Kyosho or Tamiya posting any races they have lost though.

Which brings me to my next point ... the local fast guys at any track always seem to be able to pull something out of the hat.

Unfortunately RC is unlike a real 'pro' spectator sport. There is no actual 'pro' circuit per say; aka. F1 or CART. So telling what kit is the best based on results is rediculous, because you could have the best guy at any given race running any of the race quality kits; but you never who WHO they are racing against. They could be racing against somebody with the skills of my 10 yr old brother. How good is he you ask? Nobody knows. Thats my point.

I've seen guys win their mains, hitting the curb on every other lap; or spinning out twice/three times or more a race etc. etc. and still pulling a win.

There are too many variables in RC racing to base kit quality on race results. It is all relative. So just because a local guy can win with such and such kit, is just as relative as any of the bigger name racers winning with the kit.

Flame wars about which car is better based on past race performance is just stupid. You must factor in WHY, and in RC there are so many variables its hard to keep track of them all.

I really wish in the future, there would be a 'pro' circuit for RC, a number scheme which is clearly visible to spectators, and more of a pro racing style qualifying and race format.

I think then, you will have ALOT more people interested. I think thats a big problem for beginners or onlookers, you never know what the heck is going on most of the time -with regards to whose who, and who is winning-. Racing alone can be confusing to keep track, then look at the RC race formats ... no wonder its not as big as it could be.

Old Skool

Some of the guys around here have tried metal pulleys on their 1/10 & even 1/8 cars (both Mugens), and have put the plastic ones back on after they discovered the metal ones are harder on the belts.

Myself, I am trying to decide between an R40 or an MTX-3...

cHckbOY5

r40 is cheaper... man im thinkin of gettin an r40 but i bought a barracuda R2... so now im broke, unless i sell my cuda n get this kit

johan

Who makes the new hpi .12 engines for hpi?

KMac

Novarossi

puma1824

Well I just went through the pros and cons of my R40 and MTX3. Although I love my MTX3 I really have to sell it. Parts support has always disturbed me. So you'll see my MTX3 for sale on the forums and if I get no response I will go up on Ebay. So if anyone wants (what I consider a good deal) a MTX3 is up for sale (LINK) .

Back to more R40 stuff...here's my wish list:

- Super chassis
- Aluminum Shocks
- Graphite Shock Towers
- Aluminum rear brace (will they make one?)
- Aluminum Front Sway Bar mounts (will they make one?)
- Aluminum Upper Deck support (will they make one?)
- Lighter Drive Shafts (will they make one?)

Fastharry in my opinion too, I would not use aluminum pullies. When I used them in the MTX-3 they wore out the belts faster. Here's my theory: With plastic pullies, when pebbles would get stuck they could easily be picked out and the burr would were smoothly by itself. When using aluminum the same pebbles would scare the aluminum and create sharp edges thus wearing out the belts faster.

Anyone planning on runnig rubber tires?

I just obtained a Novarossi MR12 (or MT12 - I can't tell) Turbo S1 and found that the head shims were missing. Where can I purchase them? Furthermore where can I get a new high-end needle and shims/washer for that?

Thanks,
Puma

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

belive it or not,I found the reverse to be true...

I have metal pulleys on my HPI racer2's..and my Veteq and impulse....but they have to be the right design.....I know the robinson pulleys had a slightly different shape..one that Rob said wouldn't attract rocks..or be as hard on the belts..

so I guess if I found a good design,I'd try them...but if not,Plastic is fine...

Puma..I would try Winners circle.......or even Mugen direct.to get the part numbers,then call Nitro house...

if they don't have them,Maybe a set of shims from another Nova baseed engine would help...My LHS has RB shims in stock...

And I think you can still get the HPI Nova rossi shims...

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

I also use all alum. pullies on my 705 with no problems and I race weekly.

puma1824

Would you know if this is correct for stock needle settings? (I used RB Concepts guidance on their website) High 5 turns out, Low 2 1/2, and Mid flush with surface.

I would also need a replacement high needle housing. Would your LHS have one of these too?

I actually traded my MT12 for this MR12 Turbo -not broken in but the guy didn't know how to tune and took it apart. I inspected every piece, after the trade, and just found these few problems.

Would you know if Robinson Racing is thinking about making the Alum pullies for this car?

Did any of you guys see the post on another forum about having trouble fitting a Novarossi engine in the R40?? Has anyone else had this problem?

jbackslash

I have a novarossi top. When mounting the engine the left and right chasis braces need to be off. You need to align the carb just right so you get the throttle to open freely without hitting the tank.

Frank McKinney

Acutally Novarossi does not make engines for us any more. Hara used the new Novarossi engine to win however.

johan

Well, who makes the engines then?

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

Pic of Hara's engine used.....

Im2lazy

I think I'd be correct in saying HPI. I mean it is their engine, and they've made engines before they hooked up with novarossi one time, and its not like they stopped doing it themselves.

If I'm wrong, then, well shoot me for it.