xax

you mean there will be steering when throttle on and lesser when off rite?So can the dif use to compensate for poor traction whn lower shore tyre can't be obtain?

InitialD

Yes and yes

modellor

Yeah. You can still loosen the diff without removing the dogbone and loosening the setscrew. The reason it then loosened off was the fact the setscrew was not loose and not locking the setting tight.

Arun

This question has been brought up to team drivers before. The set screw is not neccesary. I have run my ball diff in my impulse for two years EVERY WEEK without the setscrew and NEVER had a problem. Just simply use loctite on the adjustment screw. Then, the thrust bearings are what keep the diff from loosening or thightening. The set screw is somewhat of a (unneccesary) fail-safe.

modellor

Right. Now I understand why you say it is externally adjustable. Using loctite on the setting screw has the same affect as using the setscrew. But without the loctite you need the set screw to hold the setting which is why we have a little confusion on the subject.

I still prefer the setscrew way though as I know the diff isnt going to let go during a long main final

EVOLUTION

It took a while to find of my hard drive but i think it's similar to what is being said by Proficar403,this was written for a mugen diff i believe maybe for an Avance but i can't really remember,I did not write it.


"Building the On-Road Diff"

You can set up your diff so that you can turn it into a fully external adjustable unit, and don't have to bother with that pesky locking grubscrew in the left side.

Take the diff out of the car. Take the locking grubscrew out of the left side hub. Put a locking pin or small allen key through the right hand side. Unscrew the diff all the way apart.

Put one large drop Loctite 262 into the threaded screw hole for the diff tension bolt ONLY. (This is in the left-side half.) Do it slowly and carefully so that none is left on the outside. Do not put any on the diff tension bolt. We do not want any spilling out and coating the inside of the diff.

Re-assemble the diff, screwing the halves together slowly. The reason for leaving the grubscrew out is to let the air out when screwing the halves together, to keep the the loctite from being forced back up past the scew threads and inside the diff.

Leave to sit for an hour or so. You can put the grubscrew back to keep dirt out. You should now be able to adjust the diff action by puttng a pin thru the right hand side and turning the left wheel.

No more taking apart the rear end of the car to adjust the diff.

InitialD

Gentlemen, this is superb information You learn something new everyday.

Thanks Proficar. I knew you still had much information to share with us even though you're not running the 705 Thanks to EVO too for affirming and providing the information EVO, I think for the Serpent ball diff, the right is left and left is right for the description you wrote, right?

Ok, this is what I have summarised as below from the postings. Correct me if I'm wrong.

1. Put locktite on the threads of the long Diff axle (right side) (801432) and NOT on the diff adjustment screw (left side) (801433). No locktite on the grub screw (1259) either.

2. Assemble back the diffs without the grub screw (1259).

3. Leave the diff assembly for an hour or so for the loctite to cure and put the grub screw (1259) back in the right long diff axle (801432) to keep dirt out.

4. To adjust externally, make sure the left side of the diff axle (801431) and the hole of the diff adjustment screw (801433) align so that a 1.5 mm allen wrench can be put through the holes. Turn the right wheel to adjust diff setting. Clockwise to tighten and anticlockwise to loosen.

Ok, the last question is after doing the above, do you still screw in the grub screw (1259) tightly to lock the diff setting or just snugly screw the grub screw in? Modellor would put it in but Proficar does not use it. I think screwing in the grub screw (1259) tightly will make it difficult to adjust the diff externally as outlined in step 4.

Arun

Like i said, i have not used the grub screw since I bought the diff. In fact, I have seen few ball diffs that use a locking grub screw like that. I had a corally c4.1 that uses the SAME exact principle in its diffs as the serpent ball diff, and it does not even have an area to thread in a locking screw. It has the same place to align the holes and everything. If you look at off road truck diffs, for example, they also basically use the same principles. Instead of needing loctite on the screw, however, the screw actually threads into a locknut. The whole point of thurst bearings is to revent the diff from loosening or tightening. If you do end up having problems, you should check your thrust bearings. I had them go out in a tc3 once, leading to inconsistent diff action. All the balls on the serpent diffs, however, are pretty beefy though.

EVOLUTION

No probs.

The piece i'm sure now was written for an Avance diff and i think it was a tip by one of the local guys(who knew his mugens very well )a while back,that's why there might be some slight variation with the serpent diff but pretty much the same can be applied.