General 1/8th Scale On-Road Thread
11-16-2007, 01:47 PM
#16
I will be glad to express my views on INS but not on this thread. This is a very good thread serving a purpose and I dont want to honk it up with my views on INS. If there is another thread on INS, I will be glad to move over there and honk that thread up...... matter of fact you can probably find some of my views already there.
In regards to radio based ABS, I have played with this on a few of the radios I've owned and on some tracks an advantage can be found by using it. Todays cars steer and handle so much better than their 20 year old counterparts, that I find I do alot of braking by scrubbing speed with steering. Not to say that you dont need brakes just that braking is not as important to getting a car around the track as 20 years ago. The radio I currently use(Nomadio React) has a brake mixing feature that I have been playing with. When set up, it dials out braking as you turn the steering from straight ahead. The effect is to keep the car from looping when you turn under braking. Still playing around with it but so far I like!!
In regards to radio based ABS, I have played with this on a few of the radios I've owned and on some tracks an advantage can be found by using it. Todays cars steer and handle so much better than their 20 year old counterparts, that I find I do alot of braking by scrubbing speed with steering. Not to say that you dont need brakes just that braking is not as important to getting a car around the track as 20 years ago. The radio I currently use(Nomadio React) has a brake mixing feature that I have been playing with. When set up, it dials out braking as you turn the steering from straight ahead. The effect is to keep the car from looping when you turn under braking. Still playing around with it but so far I like!!
11-16-2007, 02:28 PM
#17
2. Changing the gap in tire size front to back will alter the overdrive or underdrive of the car. There are charts for this online based on your individual vehicle, or there are a few charts that you can actually plug in your vehicles information and get the overdrive ratio's. I run my serpent around 102% or 2% overdrive.
11-16-2007, 03:16 PM
#18
Servos
Most of the digital high torque servos are plenty fast for driving 1/8th scale. I use the same model for throttle and steering mainly so I need to only stock one type as a spare. With racing you always want a decent speed servo, but most guys end up turning down their radio to make the car/steering less twitchy anyway. Also, you will hear some guys recommend sticking with analog servos to save battery and increase runtime, however with the sick batteries out there (ie 1400-1800mah), forget if you use lipos, that no longer is a real issue. Plus if we go back to speed and response time, digital servos provide the best response due to the High Response Systems being used with most of the newer radio systems. I think, most drivers mainly look for a strong/durable/reliable servo. That is one part you dont want failing you during a race day. I have used by futaba S9451 servos for the last 3 years, and only want to replace the wire due to permanent crimps from being in the same position for so long. I use plastic horns, so if I do hit hard, more than likely i will break/strip a $2.00 part, and not my $100.00 servo. Anyway, I am just glad to hear more guys are getting and coming back to racing. The competition always makes things fun and interesting. Plus, the chassis war is at its best.....Mugen, Serpent, Kyosho, and there are a few new players also. You cannot go wrong with any of the kits being produced. Its all up to the driver. Now, if we can get tires down to 25.00 a set.......
11-16-2007, 04:33 PM
#19
Or tire wear like has been seen at Leisure Hours Raceway in Joliet, Illinois. Guys in all classes are running all day with little or no tire wear at all. It's crazy to pick up your car and see almost NO tire dust inside the body.
I don't know how they did it, but the surface is SPECIAL.
I don't know how they did it, but the surface is SPECIAL.
11-17-2007, 11:47 AM
#20
Now, if we can get tires down to 25.00 a set.......
, will make plenty of green - $$$$ 
11-17-2007, 02:20 PM
#21
overdrive
Apex,Ron at duneland hobbies told me of a downloadable version calculator for overdrive on the serpent website.He loaded it on his laptop so he can calculate overdrive ratio at the track.
11-17-2007, 09:55 PM
#24
Almost without exception, everyone is using personal transponders in 1/8. Seems alot of folks complain about the expense of PT's but think about this......New PT's are around $100 right now. Used ones on Ebay are bringing around 60-70 bucks. If you buy new,use it for 3 or 4 years and then turn it on Ebay for $60, your net cost for the time you use it is $40. Not too bad IMO.
11-17-2007, 10:30 PM
#25
Found the Serpent Drive Calc v1.1 for models 710, 720, 835, 950R, 960 here:
Download link
I'm still confused on what exactly "overdrive" refers to. Serpent calls it more front drive or more rear drive. Which is preferable and referred to as "overdrive"?
What About LiPos? How many drivers are running these now for capacity with digitals and who makes packs that fit in place of the 5XAAA's?
Download link
I'm still confused on what exactly "overdrive" refers to. Serpent calls it more front drive or more rear drive. Which is preferable and referred to as "overdrive"?
What About LiPos? How many drivers are running these now for capacity with digitals and who makes packs that fit in place of the 5XAAA's?
Last edited by ESWLFSE; 11-18-2007 at 12:17 AM.
11-18-2007, 06:02 AM
#26
Tech Adept
Overdrive refers to how much further the front wheels want to pull the car than the rear. IE: a 2% overdrive (or 102) means the front wheels will move further than then the rear, but -2% overdrive (or 98) means the rear wheels will move 2% further than the front (I've never actually tried to do this but...).
I personally stay with the mimh for 2 reasons. 1) I like the majority of my weight on the bottom of the chassis. Lipos tend to be lighter than nimh, and I don't have a heavy battery tray. 2) The new cars are already at the edge of not making legal weight without adding more weight in their standard configurations.
I personally stay with the mimh for 2 reasons. 1) I like the majority of my weight on the bottom of the chassis. Lipos tend to be lighter than nimh, and I don't have a heavy battery tray. 2) The new cars are already at the edge of not making legal weight without adding more weight in their standard configurations.
11-18-2007, 07:40 AM
#27
Tech Adept
11-18-2007, 05:23 PM
#30
You will find many drivers will switch to 25% or 20% to gain fuel mileage and sacrafice some of the horsepower.
Doug