wwoodruff

Hey Jlock, did Jason F. paint that for you? Looks great

vadn1

iTrader: (5)

Jlock will you be racing swcs #6 @ RCRCNT?

JLock

iTrader: (4)

It is Jason F's design but Michael Darnell at Mike's Hobby Shop painted it for me. He does very good work and painted several bodies with that same color scheme.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

No, I will not be at SWCS race #6 at RCRCNT due to being at a race in Memphis, TN that weekend. At that race, there will be IGTs raced in a sportsman and expert class, along with electric, nitro touring, and 1/18th scale RC18R class. Both classes are spec classes with the division being based on driving skills. Their entry fees are cheap. I raced their big summer race, ran three classes and paid only $40 for the total entry fee ($20 for first class and $10 each additional class).

Jspeed

Solara,
Was running Ipanema 55 shore all around, have run harder shore split/combos in the past and worked well when car was too tight going into turns for more push going in.

I only use pre-mount Ipanema tires; it’s the only way the come; ready to race. Kyosho’s tires with the buggy foam inserts are great too. Have a few sets I glued together since Kyosho’s “US Open” race last March.

Fastfoward,

What I’ve seen in “Spec” racing since last November is a gradual loosening for manufacturers to enter into the “GT” arena. What used to be an “IGT” only class has morphed into several manufactures producing cars offering similar RTR “GT” cars in an affordable package or working on prototypes.

It’s actually a good thing, as long as none of them come out with a $700 dollar RTR that kills the class by making another “money war” class.

In our Florida State Series they’re running a loose set of rules that are being shaped and working well.

Cars run the RTR engines/pipes from the “GT” chassis manufacturer that can be interchanged between them, talk of a $175 dollar “claimer” rule and must have operational “pull-starts”, so no internal engine techs are necessary. No “centax” clutches, drift electronics or “Lola-style & Wedge-shaped” bodies and all cars run rubber tires.

As far as “required spec tires”, I’m against that idea of that 100%. It opens the door for “back room” politics that will benefit one and hurt many.

It closes the door for new manufacturers to enter “GT” racing, could allow “the chosen one” to stop working on advances in tire design or quality because they’re “the only game in town”. Plus, I’d hate to have to use a “brand” of tire that sucks because they got the “money-deal”.

If that happens to the “GT” class, good luck to everyone that sticks with it.

I’ll grab my Les Paul, fire up the old “Marshall” amp and start jamming again.

Traveling to races, hotels, fast food and all the racing expenses for an event all add up to more money that I can make gigging with a band on the weekends; including my “bar tab” and that’s a lot of fun too.

JLock,
Car looks outrageous!
Good luck in Memphis

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Jspeed..thanks for the info. For a future new owner of IGT (quiting 1/8th on road cause just cannot afford 2-3 $500 motor and tires per season)...what would be the automatic modifcation/upgrade of the IGT2 and spare parts to have...? I would like some recommandation and prepare the car this winter, thanks...

I.E...I heard the clutch can be harder, or alum clutch like the off road car..then may be something we can do about the finger type 2-speed...also, I heard engaging the 2-speed as soon as the car entering the straight is the key..but not sure that is for the IGT stock motor or also for the IGT2 motor when you mentioned the new IGT2 motor is a little bit better then the last version...thanks

crazysavage

iTrader: (43)

In response to Jspeed's ideas on tire restrictions, I think that is a scary situation. I have been having great results with the tons of buggy tires I own by just stapping tape around the inside, firm foams and a good glue up. You have to run a tad more camber but they are cheep and durable. The more manufacturers that are permitted, the cheaper tire will be. So please, no spec tire rules.

MikaR

Gears and tires, bearings incl. the engine front bearing, that's all for me... You can make the 2nd gear stronger for the clutch by replacing the pin inside with a slightly bigger one (in dia) after the stock pin wears out. Cut one from a drill bit, it works well and 2nd gear takes beating a long time.

I like to set shift point early so it saves gears also otherwise as it does not have to rev so hard before switching.

Getting the optional shocks is a good idea, they don't need attention, oils will keep inside the whole season unlike with the stock ones. I also love the 777 enlightened drive shafts (unis).

Hope this helps,
Mika

MikaR

Hi, I renovated my web pages. Not fully ready yet, but might enjoy visiting. http://www.snrt.net Cheers

bigemike

iTrader: (36)

how much difference is there between the ofna cars and the kyosho now, When I first saw a dm one pro a while back it looked to be a lot bigger, I think someone said that they where 1/7th scale??? But it seemed that the majority of people at the track ran the kyosho car. I am still trying to learn about these cars.

Thanks,

Mike

MikaR

Hi, DM1 pro is a bigger car but can't really tell how much.
However, the difference between GT1 and 2 isn't that huge, here's a pic for comparison. However, GT2 feels more planted even the change in length isn't huge.

garen

iTrader: (7)

DM-1 is 1/7th scale. DM-1 Spec is 1/8th scale and pretty much the same size as GT.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

Jspeed,

Thanks for the compliment on my painted bodies. I wished that I had the artistic talent to paint them myself. But as you see, the guy that does it for me does fantastic work and on the fly (he creates the graffic designs and color combos off the top of his head). After seeing a GT2 in action this past weekend, I am sold on it and planning on getting one soon. The engine is definitely much better than the one from the GT1. However, I did blow another engine racing mine this weekend which now makes two (2).

Solara

iTrader: (17)

After some research...here is what I can tell the different between DM1-Spec (not the original 1/7th scale DM1) and OFNA GTPII and Kyosho IGTII.

DM1-Spec probably is the best thing you can get for this IGT class, Nicer 2-speed, fancier chassis, pivot ball suspension...however, it is close to $400 just a roller without a spec engine/pipe set and those $20 radio system.

OFNA GTPII has the similar setup like the DM-1 Spec....around $350 RTR and I heard is a little bit more powerful FH engine compare to the IGT-1 (not 2)..probably a better deal for the short base buggy on road IGT type.

Kyosho IGT II (I will skip the IGT one cause there are no need to mention the old model)...better engine compare to the IGT-1, upgrade gearings, upgrade shocks (I think they are newer, right..?) longer wheel base...better looking (scale vise) body (A4 and Vette)...came RTR around $425ish...probably has more support, setting and tips amount all the other brands. And probably is the STANDARD class that most of the track will allow to run under the IGT class...a probably SAFER investment to get compare to the OFNA. Just sometimes getting Kyosho parts might be difficult.

For me...I am getting this because of the "SPEC" reason...car must be run under its own RTR engine or the $180 (or whatever price) price tag rule. Pull start with the enigne must be install. Rubber tires only (probably using any RUBBER tires are fine, no need to use only 1 brand unless it is a generally acceptable price..) Any TC/GT class bodies...must use originial brand 2-speed, no centax, no 1/8th on road modified gear box or 2-speed...

I am hoping someone can step up and do something like the electric Trans-Am class and setup a page about the national IGT rules, and have the local track to pick up those rule and foams a spec class...

The key for me is....CHEAP, please keep this class cheap and I don't need to see this class ended up running a $600 Nova Rossi 359 modified and need 2-3 of those per season and a full luggages of rubber tires from 35-65 shores...

bigemike

iTrader: (36)

I agree on the cost factor, here in cincinnati we are open to tires, and we have about 3 or 4 engine options with a $200 limit, basically the same rules as the midwest series. As far as the tire cost goes, you are going to need tires to race, it is that simple, so for us, most of the tires are in the 45 - 55 shore rating for our track. So it is really not that bad. But that leaves alot up to the driver, and most of the drivers in the class are low to medium skill level and it ends up being a drivers race.

I am still waiting on my igt 2, can't wait....