GT class--buggy-based on road!
05-03-2008, 06:11 AM
#647
Mike please, give it a break.
You know you have 2 Kyosho engines ready to go at your house.
Just drop one in and we'll settle this at the track like real racers.
You know you have 2 Kyosho engines ready to go at your house.
Just drop one in and we'll settle this at the track like real racers.
Last edited by Jspeed; 05-03-2008 at 07:00 AM.
05-04-2008, 02:25 AM
#648
Guys, Trust me - we've had the exact same discussion about engines allowed. So far only the stock.
Some new photos
Some new photos
05-06-2008, 11:23 AM
#649
Yea Bro, I get you.
I learned about the bearings after about 5 gallons thru mine before I started checking the endplay at the flywheel. The bearings are not expensive & easy to change out. Just heat it with a gun & they pop out. Freeze the bearings first and they slide right in, easy.
Even a Worlds Edition Sirio Collari monster .21 comes with new bearings & rod in the wooden box for how much money?
Some guys blew motors at the Kyosho US Open at Kissimee too, but who knows the condition the engines were in for that big track. I’m sure a few guys running Sedan hurt their cars there too. I bet a lot of guys running Sedan went to this race track with brand new big money .12 engines.
If any engine is not 100% right, it can blow up no matter what it is.
Mike, I still have a nasty Picco/Collari G1XP-PRO all done up with the big slide carb, but for what, to have the same crazy problems you had at the track the other day.
Luv ya bro, I don't need those kinda problems
It’s all good, run a “GT Open” or get a “Super Stock” class going, but be pre-paired for the money war with these cars too! It would be cool to see these cars running close to the 70mph range on bigger tracks.
Call me when you get that LRP to beat Paul at Ronnie's
I learned about the bearings after about 5 gallons thru mine before I started checking the endplay at the flywheel. The bearings are not expensive & easy to change out. Just heat it with a gun & they pop out. Freeze the bearings first and they slide right in, easy.
Even a Worlds Edition Sirio Collari monster .21 comes with new bearings & rod in the wooden box for how much money?
Some guys blew motors at the Kyosho US Open at Kissimee too, but who knows the condition the engines were in for that big track. I’m sure a few guys running Sedan hurt their cars there too. I bet a lot of guys running Sedan went to this race track with brand new big money .12 engines.
If any engine is not 100% right, it can blow up no matter what it is.
Mike, I still have a nasty Picco/Collari G1XP-PRO all done up with the big slide carb, but for what, to have the same crazy problems you had at the track the other day.
Luv ya bro, I don't need those kinda problems
It’s all good, run a “GT Open” or get a “Super Stock” class going, but be pre-paired for the money war with these cars too! It would be cool to see these cars running close to the 70mph range on bigger tracks.
Call me when you get that LRP to beat Paul at Ronnie's
number or link where to get them? BTW, the brakes you told me to get for my IGT works awesome! No fade for 5 mins. of racing. Thanks again!
05-06-2008, 11:44 AM
#650
Tech Elite
Thread Starter
Jspeed,
Bvoltz and I have been talking about the many issues with the stock Kyosho engine as far as reliability. He has proposed that his series in Jackson, MS will include a "spec" engine. The engines of choice are the OS 21VG, Sportwerks .26 and Dynamite .26. (all have to be pullstart version). These engines are relatively inexpense (under $180). However, if a racer wants, they can still run the stock engine, so, a change is not mandatory. The pipe choice for the spec engines will probably be the Dynamite pipe (inexpensive as well). Give me your thoughts on this.
Bvoltz and I have been talking about the many issues with the stock Kyosho engine as far as reliability. He has proposed that his series in Jackson, MS will include a "spec" engine. The engines of choice are the OS 21VG, Sportwerks .26 and Dynamite .26. (all have to be pullstart version). These engines are relatively inexpense (under $180). However, if a racer wants, they can still run the stock engine, so, a change is not mandatory. The pipe choice for the spec engines will probably be the Dynamite pipe (inexpensive as well). Give me your thoughts on this.
05-06-2008, 12:24 PM
#651
Thanks for the tip. I had looked at that but a couple of LHSs in my area originally had them at $200. They have since backed off that price and priced them accordingly (around $130). They discovered that there are three versions of that engine and they were pricing the entry level version at the top level version price.
05-06-2008, 01:35 PM
#652
As far as the bearings, I wish I knew the part # but the inner crank main bearing and front bearings is what you're looking for. Anyone out there can you help us out with the exact part numbers?
When you heat up the block to get the old bearings out remember to take out the little O-ring under the carb, easy to forget it's there.
05-06-2008, 01:42 PM
#653
Yea, the swapping out the engine deal for something that can open another can of worms and may or may not be legal at all the IGT class in America will cost more than the $150 dollars because you'll need the new engine mount, header, flywheel and clutch assembly.
I see guys that are still trying to get the balance back on the track.
For me to go thru all that, I think I'd just buy a whole other new IGT and part it out, they're priced right all accross America.
I see guys that are still trying to get the balance back on the track.
For me to go thru all that, I think I'd just buy a whole other new IGT and part it out, they're priced right all accross America.
05-06-2008, 03:29 PM
#654
Yea, the swapping out the engine deal for something that can open another can of worms and may or may not be legal at all the IGT class in America will cost more than the $150 dollars because you'll need the new engine mount, header, flywheel and clutch assembly.
I see guys that are still trying to get the balance back on the track.
For me to go thru all that, I think I'd just buy a whole other new IGT and part it out, they're priced right all accross America.
I see guys that are still trying to get the balance back on the track.
For me to go thru all that, I think I'd just buy a whole other new IGT and part it out, they're priced right all accross America.
I will be leaving mine box stock (engine included) for Bvoltz' next race. I want to see how my car will handle against some guys that I know will change out their engines. If I start getting the multi-lap spanking, then I will make the change. If I hang in there with the stock engine, I will continue to run it until it plays itself out.
05-06-2008, 04:18 PM
#655
Jspeed,
I will be leaving mine box stock (engine included) for Bvoltz' next race. I want to see how my car will handle against some guys that I know will change out their engines. If I start getting the multi-lap spanking, then I will make the change. If I hang in there with the stock engine, I will continue to run it until it plays itself out.
I will be leaving mine box stock (engine included) for Bvoltz' next race. I want to see how my car will handle against some guys that I know will change out their engines. If I start getting the multi-lap spanking, then I will make the change. If I hang in there with the stock engine, I will continue to run it until it plays itself out.
05-06-2008, 06:04 PM
#656
Jspeed,
I will be leaving mine box stock (engine included) for Bvoltz' next race. I want to see how my car will handle against some guys that I know will change out their engines. If I start getting the multi-lap spanking, then I will make the change. If I hang in there with the stock engine, I will continue to run it until it plays itself out.
I will be leaving mine box stock (engine included) for Bvoltz' next race. I want to see how my car will handle against some guys that I know will change out their engines. If I start getting the multi-lap spanking, then I will make the change. If I hang in there with the stock engine, I will continue to run it until it plays itself out.
I am not having problems with my motor either runs great. Also on another note the piston/sleeve is available here locally for $40 and the rod is $20. That is cheaper than I can repair my .12TZ for. We are getting a big class of them here in Memphis and so far only had problems with 1 and the reason the bearings gave out on it I think is because he ran 30% for the breakin process. Face it, it is not an OS or Nova or Picco, but it can be ran inexpensively and it doesn't take any more looking after than my 1/10 .12 motors do.
I tend to agree with Jspeed with the idea of keeping it a low as possible class. That way you get to see who can drive and who can't. Once the class gets opened up to a broader range of motors then you will see people trying to see if they can slip some mods in there just to get a slight edge. I don't know anything about where everyone else races, but we are racing high $$$ toy cars for bowling trophies. And Juan if you come to BTH you will need that stock motor along with everyone else that comes.
05-06-2008, 06:47 PM
#657
Sid,
My car is currently box stock with the Kyosho engine in it. I had to obtain one from Zootcapri after blowing up the original one after using 30% nitro. My car is running on rails currently (did some testing down in Austin, TX this past weekend) and it will be ready for BTH 2008. In fact, I have two stock Kyosho engines as backup (one used, one brand new). So, don't worry, mine will be within the rules when I get there.
My car is currently box stock with the Kyosho engine in it. I had to obtain one from Zootcapri after blowing up the original one after using 30% nitro. My car is running on rails currently (did some testing down in Austin, TX this past weekend) and it will be ready for BTH 2008. In fact, I have two stock Kyosho engines as backup (one used, one brand new). So, don't worry, mine will be within the rules when I get there.
05-06-2008, 08:29 PM
#658
I'm glad to hear that motor is still strong for you. Sometimes I wonder if I really gained anything going to the Axial .28. Once I get the rear end planted so that I can get the power to the ground (rather than wild rear wheel spin) it should be fun. I went up in diff viscosity for the rear and I'll see if it works Saturday.
Anyway... I am really glad how that motor is running for you.
Anyway... I am really glad how that motor is running for you.
05-07-2008, 07:10 AM
#659
I'm glad to hear that motor is still strong for you. Sometimes I wonder if I really gained anything going to the Axial .28. Once I get the rear end planted so that I can get the power to the ground (rather than wild rear wheel spin) it should be fun. I went up in diff viscosity for the rear and I'll see if it works Saturday.
Anyway... I am really glad how that motor is running for you.
Anyway... I am really glad how that motor is running for you.
05-09-2008, 03:46 PM
#660
Glad they help slow your IGT down, they are real good for me too.
As far as the bearings, I wish I knew the part # but the inner crank main bearing and front bearings is what you're looking for. Anyone out there can you help us out with the exact part numbers?
When you heat up the block to get the old bearings out remember to take out the little O-ring under the carb, easy to forget it's there.
As far as the bearings, I wish I knew the part # but the inner crank main bearing and front bearings is what you're looking for. Anyone out there can you help us out with the exact part numbers?
When you heat up the block to get the old bearings out remember to take out the little O-ring under the carb, easy to forget it's there.
They have all the sizes! I know I need to replace those bushings from the spur gears right away.