Has anyone converted to a center diff? This center diff is from an MP7.5 and bolts onto the chassis just fine. However, the dog bone is not long enough. I tried a universal which helps because the one end case be bolted into place and at least this way the dog bone can't fall out. However you can tell it's not long enough. Another 3 mm would be ideal.

Any ideas? I'll attach a picture in just a minute...

I used center cvd diff on my Inferno GT with no problem.

I used this one from ebay. :nod:
http://i23.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/78/10/b291_10.JPG

Those are the same CVDs that I picked up and that you see in the picture. But I'm guessing you mean that you're using the IGT two-speed right? I ditched the two-speed and put a center diff in from a 7.5 buggy.

I wouldn't worry about that shaft. There shouldn't be enough movement in the center, for that to come out.
FYI, 1k fluid will give far more drive to the weighted wheel than grease. It may feel about the same on the bench, but in use, the circulates through the gears and provides more resistance as RPM increases, while the grease is flung out of the mesh and provides less resistance as RPM goes up.
For short tracks, the center diff option may help. It certainly gives you another tuning option. On longer tracks, the 2 speed would be of more benefit.

Thanks for the advice, duneland. I hadn't considered what you mentioned about grease versus 1K oil.

I agree the two-speed is desirable on larger tracks although you could choose to gear a single-speed setup as similar to a two-speed's 1st gear or a two-speed's 2nd gear, know what I mean? So in theory the two-speed gives you acceleration and top-speed and with a single speed you just have to choose between acceleration or top-speed or maybe make an in-between compromise.

Kyosho GT car support
 

We also support these cars.

RC Car Action has a comparison test between the Kyosho IGT and the Ofna Ultra GTII. You guys may want to check that magazine out. It's a pretty good article.

It's a pretty good article. I didn't know that the new IGT's were delivered with digital servos. That is what the article says. What is the torque rating on stock IGT servos?

I have been racing one of these a Ronnie Setsers Raceway in Tampa since december. This is the most fun I have had in 20+ years if racing. Parts are not a problem because you rarely break any. The only thing I replace were spur gears due to adustment error. The competition is incredible. They are real driver cars and you can go lap after lap with someone swapping positions the whole time. I would recommend these to anyone who has a place to race them. We are pushing 3 mains on normal sunday races.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...artin003-1.jpg

For those racers that are interested, here’s another great opportunity to race our IGT cars.:)

http://www.kissrcraceway.com/images/race_flyer.jpg

Cant make that one, I'll be racing my IGT in Vegas! Aprpril 9,10,11,12,13th it should be a Fun race also....:cool:

One thing I noticed about the IGT is the motor mount. It pretty much looks like you would have to swap out the chassis if you want to use anything else other than a Kit motor. Is there any other options?

You can put any .21 or bigger motor in these cars. The stock motor bolts right to the chassis, but the chassis (pretty much the same as the 7.5 buggy) accepts the plates and engine mounts used by other Kyosho cars. The plates are made by Kyosho, the mounts are too and are also available from several aftermarket companies.

Hey Garen,
are there any clutches other than the stock clutch that will work with the GXR28 engine, and still being able to use a starter box?.. see yea at the race!

Thanks,
I've looked into it further and found the part numbers from a inferno 777.

Fred, not sure about that, I'll look around and see if I can find anything.

Garen, Thanks! :)

I'm looking to pick one of these up in the next few weeks and I keep noticeing that the aston martin version of the IGT is about 40$ more then the other versions of the IGT was wondering if anyone knows the reason for this? Does this version of the IGT come with any upgrades over the others?

Latest Issue of RC Car Action has the Inferno Kyosho and OFNA on the Cover with a Test Inside.

It has to do with licensing. It costs more for Kyosho for the license to make the Ferrari and Aston Martin bodies than the others.

Ohh what a crock as if they don't mark up the damn things enough they have to pass along the cost to the consumer. :flaming: I like the nissan better anyway :D oh well another week or so and I join the IGT club.

Hello

Anybody got a decent setup??

I posted this setup on the Motonica GP thread a few weeks ago. This is the setup I ran at the Silverbowl in Vegas.

Here is my IGT in detail:

Tires: Medial Pro IAS Tarmac 60 shore front, 45 shore rear (car had a very slight push)

Diffs: Front 35,000 GS Oil, Rear 5,000 GS Oil

Camber: -1 front, -2 Rear

Toe: +0.5 each side front, -2 Fioroni 7.5 rear toe block and -0.5 rear Fioroni 777 Uprights

Anti-Squat: Fioroni 7.5 +2 block

Shock Position: middle hole on tower, outer hole on arms (front and rear)

Shock Piston: Fioroni dual action front and rear, groove side up

Shock Oil: 1,000 GS

Shock Springs: I used some springs I got from Taiwan…they are for Revo, they are progressive, and much stiffer than the black springs. I have been told Kyosho is making option springs. The front springs are stiffer than the rear springs, so any combo of stiff rear and stiffer front is a good start.

Rear Arm Position: inner upper hole on hub, middle hole on tower

Rear Upright position: upper hole (I think this is the normal position)

Droop: With the car sitting on 20mm blocks (Hudy blocks) 7.5mm rear (measured at the lowest point of the rear uprights), 8mm front (measured at the lowest point of the front c-hubs)

Ride Height: 10mm rear (measured at the rear of the chassis), 5mm front (measured right behind the front arms)

Engine: Radical .21 Torque

Clutch: Fioroni Twin Turbo black shoes with optional stiff springs

Clutchbell gears: 15/19

Front a/b blocks: front upper arm is in the lower hole on the tower and the matching position for the lower arm used Fioroni 7.5 arm mounts.

Steering plate: middle hole (I used Fioroni’s 7.5 plate)

Brakes: No pads used with Fioroni’s ferodo brake disc

Wheelbase: long, but I would have liked to have tried the short.

Sway Bars: Kyosho silver, 2.5mm thick F/R

Body: Aston Martin

Servos: Airtronics 358 steering, 737 throttle

My car (which I had borrowed) had the helical cut gears, which may or may not be geared for truggy. No e-clips on the car. The 2 speed is set to shift early (it would not shift at all in the first qualifier).

Team VTX gold aluminum and titanium hardware throughout for weight reduction, carbon fiber side guards for weight reduction and good looks!

I made sure the drivetrain spins free and all suspension parts are bind free

GT Setup With Center Diff?
 

Fellas the car has been around long enough now....so I kno theres a racer out there who has tried just about all the drive train configurations.........How does the car work with a center diff?.....wht would b a middle ground for pinion..spur gear is 46t..not to slow out of the hole but b able to run a 160ft straight?.was thinkin 17 or 18.....and wht diff oil for the center......been readin some say 150k up to 300k center........and I also hav a torsen diff in a 7.5 buggy....would this help in the front or rear in any way?..........thanks fellas

I've been considering a center diff for this upcoming season (we run them on parking lot tracks) but only because I dislike the performance and reliability of the stock 2-speed so much. If the 2-speed worked with high-torque engines I'd stick with it.

I believe that if you run 150K to 300K oil it's really not going to act like a diff at all. Rather it will act like a single-speed.

The biggest question is whether you like your rear a little loose so that you can powerslide the car or whether you want your rear planted.

If your style is to powerslide the car somewhat, a center diff won't help you and the only reason to put one in would be if you dislike the 2-speed and you just want something solid there (with 150K to 300K oil).

If on the other hand you like your rear planted then a center diff could help your cornering somewhat but you'd want to put something more like 30K oil in there. In this case I'd try 50K front, 30K center, and 10K rear.

I can't speak to the torsen diffs. I have some impressions about their purpose but I need to learn more.

www.gasrccar.com Lee Muse

Xray Prince,
boy do I have the answer for you... I run my H7RG (car similar to the IGT)at SS Speedway in Tampa, Florida. The back straight there is approx 180ft. The last time I ran on the track I ran a single speed center diff (prior to that I had a 2-speed combination from a DM-1 & Hyper 7.) With the single single speed center diff, my lap times were just as good as some of the top drivers at the track with the stock IGT 2 speeds units. With the single speed center diff, I can adjust the car for brake bias and I feel this give the car has more braking power. I know for a fact that on smaller to medium size tracks the single speed cars can run with 2 speed cars.

This is my set up with single speed.
front diff - 50k
center diff - 100k
rear diff - 10k

Center diff and parts are from a kyosho mp777/ mp-7.5 (both cars share the same diff)
44T plastic gear from Kyosho for the center diff case, the spur gear is a direct fit to the kyosho buggy diff.
Clutch bell 15T
OS speed Vspec .21 w/ T2050 tune pipe.

Inside each diff front, center and rear I removed one of the two cross bar and two of the four smaller gears.

Around this particular track fell I could have done better with a rear diff with 7k or 5k diff oil.

If you have to use your torsen diff, install in front.

Here is a video I took of the track, so you get an idea of the size of the straight and the infield layout.
http://www.stage6.com/user/vadn1/vid...-GT-Spec-Class

You will need divx to view the video.

Single speed IGT
 

Vadn1 thanks for the info.......I hav read atleast 100 pages of info about the car...but no one seemed to put me at ease about the single speed.....Im going to b running at SpeedworldRaceway...medium size layout...with all the prob I hav read about the 2speed......seems like everyone would b going to single.......and most of the cars tht I hav personally seen or watched on youtube seem to shift into 2nd way early anyway....so if im going to run a 17 or 18/46 I should just b barely losing a little on the bottom wright............with a onroad.21 C5 rody mod wht clutch and clutchbell would u use?

somehow it seems difficult to understand that the 2-speed is intended with the stock engine and if you want to use anything more powerful (a race .21) then the single speed (regular center diff) is the choice.
I feel that the IGT class is not only about going fastest but having fun together and hear/feel car shifting is part of this fun.
If you really want to go fast then Evolva is the option as it has the gear box you need to do so.

The Kyosho Inferno GT cars at SS Raceway in our “Spec” class race every weekend. The 2 speed works very well for us. The majority of our cars use the 15/19 clutch bell set-ups and shifting is not a problem. We have a lot of fun with them.

The cars equipped with the 14/17 gear set do seem to shift too early, but once they go to the 15/19, they're good to go.

Most of our racers are looking forward to racing our “Spec” cars at the 3rd Annual US Open Sedan Championships at Kissimmee this April. :)

Xray Prince,
I saw the pictures of the Speedworldtrack and it looks very close to the layout of SS Speedway. With that C5 mod onroad engine, I would strongly recommend you use a 15t bell if you are down on speed then change to the 16T bell or get the plastic 44T spur gear (from kyosho) . Remember you will need to get around in the infield fast, you motor will take care of the rest on the longer straight. You will have a true onroad engine in your car, it is designed to rev to the moon and then some. I used a 1/8 offroad engine, and it was having no problems keeping up with .28s with 2-speed units.

Also try the link below its to the IGT proboards, forum dedicated to the Inferno GT. There is someone there trying to make a single speed solid spool set up. Maybe you can go this route if you dont want the weight of the center diff.

http://infernogt.proboards102.com/in...lay&thread=957

Thx for the video Vadn1, I hope to get over to SS soon but it will probably be a few months. I am almost done with my DM-One though. I cannot wait.

Let me know when you go out there, I will bring out my DM-1 as well. Just PM when you do.

I was wondering what set up is working for your group!
I have got a IGT but not long enough to figure every thing out as far as set up goes.
Any info would help!
Thanks
Jeff E
Blowin Snoke BBQ

Jeff,

Most of us are running 50K to 100K in the front diffs, 10K to 30K in the rear, 45w to 80w in the shocks, front toe out + 1 to +2, rear toe in -2 to the 3 degree stock rear block, camber -1/2 degree to -2 up front & -2 to -4 degrees rear, sway bars front & rear. Set your ride height as low as you dare!:lol:

This is kind of bouncy... but I was doing some hotlaps with a camera on board. The weather timing (it's snowing now) didn't allow us to setup a track so I ran the tri-oval perimeter... Can't wait for Spring...

http://youtube.com/watch?v=AMXcxiYTutY

bring the camera to vegas

Done.

.... and I still have your blue springs.... I'll get them back to you at that race.