Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

This motors are all good starter motors:
JL EVO 3, JP P3L Firstline stock version, or OS 12 TZ.

HoboShop

iTrader: (3)

I will offer you some advise if you want the fastest motors on the market for 8 scale or 10 scale these are the motors you want.

10 scale

#1 jp eagle tl3-t

#2 murnan modified 353

#3 nova max xxl3

# 4 murnan modified rb r3

8 scale

#1 jp eagle r9

#2 Murnan modified 35+21

#3 359 tuned or murnan modified


If you have the money to spend go with the jp eagle line of motors for either class they are the fastest motors on the market no matter what the other racers say they are wrong when tuned right they have more top end then any other motor on the market but i will tell you murnan modifieds have the most low end and mid range of any motor with crazy top end just a little less than the jp.

KDOG09

Ook guys what is the best 1/10 scale car to buy not sure what to invest money into yet.

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Since you are here in the MRX 4X thread, I would recomend This: http://kamikazercracing.com/proddeta...?prod=mtx4rkit

HoboShop

iTrader: (3)

there isnt a best car it all depends on the driver but the vone rrr evo 2 wc is a very fast car but it breaks very easily the mtx4r is the best all around car for parts support and speed and it also holds up better in a crash then any other car on the market.

After that a would say

xray nt1

serpent 720

powerdrifter

Hi all,
I got a problem with my nova engine... I wonder if you have seen the same
kind of issue. I am running a MRX4R with a Novarossi Kangaroo engine made
in 2005. The engine is still new, had one gallon on it. But ever since the
beginning, I had this lean bog problem after refueling (full tank).
After the the high speed sweeper, the engine will bog and almost want
to die out. I have read some articles on the internet to solve the
full tank lean bog problem. so I have added a fuel chamber in the pressure
tubing and all, but it didn't solve the problem. The only way is to
run the low end very very very rich... Have you guys seem this problem
before? Is it the carb? does the Kagaroo comes with bad carb? is it the
JP pipe? the fuel tank? Any help is appreciated.

powerdrifter

Rick1257,
do you race in vorra?

asw7576

First of all, you need to retune all needle setting, try to richen Low Speed Needle ( in my 35 plus 21 engine, the LSN is surface level with throttle lever ), and then continue adjusting the High Speed Needle until you get optimum power.

Second, change the 1st pinion gear to 16T.

Third, make sure the fuel line from tank to carburator is short. Don't lengthen it. I've been in your situation..... I find out the engine is actually starving during stop and go acceleration and exiting corner. I was confuse at that time because the fuel line was only 12cm with a novarossi filter in the line. Until my mechanic replaced the fuel line with shorter fuel line about 5cm and without the filter, and then... the bogging problem went away ever since.

Fourth, Make sure the pressure line from exhaust to gas tank is not too long. Just keep the pressure line short with or without pressure chamber in between ( up to you.... I don't know the real effect of it coz I don't use it ).

Good luck.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

The lean bog is common with the good old R1 and actually can be a good thing since it usually means your tuning is almost dead on. Just richen the top end a hair and it will go away. If it seems to be running rich but still has the full tank bog then it is often a clutch problem. Increase the gap and tighten down on the spring some more. Also, if you are not using the pressure chamber in the pressure line, GET ONE NOW.

powerdrifter

Thanks for the advice!
The fuel tube to the engine is already short... but I can cut another 2mm
and see.

I will try changing the first gear to 17 and increase the clutch tension and spring.

as for the low needle, it's set to ridiculously rich now, it's about 1.5 mm
sticking out... as compare to the flush default settings. that's probably about
2 turns out. I was able to run that for a season without bogging, but I
had no punch out of the corners.

I know it's probably not the engine, but thought about giving it up,
but I can't afford those new engine that cost $500+

powerdrifter

the engine is rx21r1wc "kangaroo"
is that the R1 you mentioned?

Roelof

Yes, they are (almost?) the same engines but JP does have better specs. I had the Team 2003 editions with the purple head, awesome motors but only a short life due the extreme tuning.

Did you try the Mugen pressure chamber? It did solve that problem with me.

powerdrifter

I have the pressure chamber but that didn't solve the problem.

anyone has experience with the RB Xenon engine?

what's a good engine to get for around $400...

asw7576

If you are already using short fuel line, and with LSN already sticking out like that, then these following might help : 16T pinion gear, very light clutch weight ( enlarge the holes with bigger drill bit ) , Ultra Hard Centax Spring ( I like Kyosho's black super hard centax spring ) , and replace the fuel line and pressure line.

Btw, try also to spray the carburator fuel inlet with electric motor cleaner ( Muchmore, PF2, silicone / rubber safe spray ), and watch the sprays ejected out from the needle. Maybe the carburator fuel inlet is slightly clogged.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Yes, when I say R1 I mean the R1wc Kangaroo motor. I say it's still the best motor ever made.

Many people make the mistake of going super rich on the bottom to get rid of the problem when the problem is actually too lean on the top. Richen the top a bit and if it seems too rich lean the bottom some more. For more snap off the corner use the 16 tooth first gear and get more aggressive on the clutch set-up, both of which help with the bog as well.

Another common cause of sluggish acceleration off of slow to medium speed corners is two speed set-up. If the car is in second gear off of a slow corner it is not going to accelerate very well. Tighten up the spring loaded screws to keep it in first off the corner.