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Old 08-27-2001, 10:01 PM   #16
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I would definitely get the mid belt tensioner and bearings for it. Whatever you do, don't run the mid belt tensioner with the bushing! I've seen too many of them seize up!

Many racers complain of the brakes being a bit too grabby and of inconsistant braking during a race. CF is more progressive and will fade less. You must have metal to fiber contact, though so flip the brake pads around and they should work fine with the fiber rotor.
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Old 08-27-2001, 10:13 PM   #17
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Hey TheBarber

Thanks for the Info...

Keep the Rubber(or Foam)on the Road!!!


Bradley J. Gotori
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Old 08-27-2001, 10:14 PM   #18
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Hey psycho


The Factory Mid-belt tensioner doesn't come with bearings??? Is there an aftermarket one that does???


Thanks

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Old 08-27-2001, 10:30 PM   #19
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Nope! The factory tensioner doesn't come with bearings! I blew mine up and threw it away. Now I use the Kose one. It also doesn't come with bearings either. I think I used 3X6 flanged bearings, but I can't remember. Your LHS should have a "bearing box" that you can size up the correct bearings from. Mine snapped the last time I ran my car and I couldn't find the parts, so I don't even have one to measure.
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Old 08-28-2001, 04:25 AM   #20
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My Kose came with bearings.
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Old 08-28-2001, 09:36 AM   #21
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Cool Thanks for the Replies!!!

Thanks All


Keep the Rubber(or Foam)on the Road!!!

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Old 08-29-2001, 11:48 AM   #22
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Usa 5x10 flanged bearings on the mugen belt tensioner i believe.

Does anyone know what Kawahara's website is??
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Old 08-29-2001, 12:15 PM   #23
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gospeed

Dunno how much help this will be, but here you go...

http://www.j-net-c.com/kawahara/
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Old 08-30-2001, 03:14 AM   #24
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Hi guys,
Is the kose tensioner adjustable?

psycho,
If they have the tensioner listed for $20 US,is that with
or without flanged bearings?
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Old 08-30-2001, 08:53 AM   #25
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RB26DETT

It is adjustable. You set the tension on the arm with the bearings and tighten down a setscrew. Mine didn't come with bearings. It had aluminum bushings. Maybe they started shipping it with bearings or they may have more than one. I think I paid around $20USD. Can't really remember, though.
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Old 08-30-2001, 08:38 PM   #26
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Thanks for the info psycho......
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Old 08-30-2001, 08:48 PM   #27
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Does anyone use the solid rear axle?

What benefits would that give you?

How about the one way? I use them in my electric cars but I think it would be hard to drive a nitro with a one way--I brake pretty hard at the end of the straight at my track. Using the same pricipals as the electric version, I would probably spin the car if I used that one-way...is this correct?

Thanks
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Old 08-30-2001, 08:58 PM   #28
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kansasracer

I haven't used them in my MTX2, but I do run that setup in my Impact. I find that it requires a lot more finesse to drive, but, when you are nice and smooth on the throttle, it really has a lot of power coming out of a corner. Much more so than with diffs. Most of this is from the front one-way. The straight axle makes the car more likely to spin in a turn, so you have to steer much more smoothly than you can get away with, running with a rear diff. You will need to adjust your brakes and possibly change to a fiber rotor to get enough braking without flipping the car around. It will have a tendancy to do a 180 when you jump on the brakes with the front one-way. Personally, I prefer diffs for the tracks I run on most of the time. If you get this setup, I'd suggest that you also get a set of guages (if you don't have them) and a tweak station. If you have any tweak, the car will be more likely to spin in turns. Even if you keep the stock setup, guages and a tweak station make a huge difference.
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Old 08-30-2001, 08:59 PM   #29
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kansasracer

One more thing... you said you run electrics. If you've raced F1 or pan cars, it will behave a lot like those cars to in the way you drive them.
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Old 08-30-2001, 10:30 PM   #30
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The original mugen belt tensioner is the best as it is adjustable and self adjustable. anyother alloy type belt tensioner has too much stress on the belt and pulley under hard acceleration and brake.
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