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Old 06-04-2002, 08:02 PM   #1981
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Default Re: Tires

Quote:
Originally posted by mugen21
Novarossi,
I tried different tires that others reccomended and they all felt the same. I was running takeoff 27's all the way around and then I went Treadz 26mm rear's that were actually harder then the fronts and it felt about the same. I bought some real soft Sorex tires for the rear that I never got around to trying. So with the car sitting on the table I should have about 3 degrees of camber? Thanks for the tips I am going to change it up and take it up to a parking lot and make my own track out of some cones and see how it does.
here is my MTX2 set up with I ran rubber tire.

front
purple springs
piston one hole with 30wt
1' toe out
0' or 0.5' camber
2mm clips front and rear of the upper arm
Front diff 10000 oil
shock position, second inner.

rear
purple springs
piston two holes with 35wt
2.5' toe in
1.5' camber
Camber link make it longest and most upper position
rear diff 5000 oil
shock position, second inner.

ride high 4mm front and rear.

I used to use sorex 28/32/36 with thinner and harder insert as this will make the car handles more forgiving and put less stress on tire.
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Old 06-05-2002, 02:19 AM   #1982
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Default Tweak fixing

How do you see if you have tweak and how do you fix it on the hudy?
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Old 06-05-2002, 02:24 AM   #1983
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Default Re: Tweak fixing

Quote:
Originally posted by warlord385
How do you see if you have tweak and how do you fix it on the hudy?
you need a tweak station instead !!

the Hudy just let you make the car suspension setup asymmetrical left to right.

the tweak station let you balance your suspension from left to right wheel.
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Old 06-05-2002, 03:42 AM   #1984
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore


I use the camber link position as followings:

shock tower: inner/lower
hub side: inner/upper

the 15mm together with the shorter link required to cut down one of the ball cap.

dtm is right in the way.

p.s. I run on foam tire.
Oops... almost forgot there was an outer hole on the MTX!!!!!
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Old 06-05-2002, 03:22 PM   #1985
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Default Re: Re: Tires

Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore


here is my MTX2 set up with I ran rubber tire.

front
purple springs
piston one hole with 30wt
1' toe out
0' or 0.5' camber
2mm clips front and rear of the upper arm
Front diff 10000 oil
shock position, second inner.

rear
purple springs
piston two holes with 35wt
2.5' toe in
1.5' camber
Camber link make it longest and most upper position
rear diff 5000 oil
shock position, second inner.

ride high 4mm front and rear.

I used to use sorex 28/32/36 with thinner and harder insert as this will make the car handles more forgiving and put less stress on tire.

Yo sure it was 10000 seem thin we run super grease in the uk but i have put 50000 in now to try, how did your car handle under/over steer or neutral??
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Old 06-05-2002, 03:52 PM   #1986
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Default Re: Re: Re: Tires

Quote:
Originally posted by Cartman



Yo sure it was 10000 seem thin we run super grease in the uk but i have put 50000 in now to try, how did your car handle under/over steer or neutral??
I run 7,000in the front and 7,000 in the rear the set up is for rubber but on foam i have not tried.
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Old 06-05-2002, 05:51 PM   #1987
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Default Novaracer ?

How does 7,000 front and rear feal with rubber tires. I got my setup from a friend which we both run 50,000 front 30,000 rear. We thought his car was working pretty good except that it had a real bad push. he runs takeoff 27's in the rear in the stock Mugen treaded tires up front, we realized this last weekend that it is the front tires provide no steering and that is why it pushes, when he put different tires up front it had good steering but the rear was real loose. I don't understand the effects of changing diff on a on road car and it is such a pain to do at the track If I changed it and it doesn't work I will spend all my practice time (there is only about 1 to 1.5 hours between the time the track is setup and the races start so with waiting for frequencies and other stuff you don't have time to do major changes to the car) working on it. I am going to try Manticore's setup and see how it goes for now. THanks for the info guys.
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Old 06-05-2002, 06:13 PM   #1988
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mugen21

To explain it simply, when you reduce the diff action, you reduce steering. You also reduce the amount of unloading the diff does, so you have to play around with it to find the right balance. I would suggest you stick with the stock setup of 30K up front and 10K rear with rubber tires. That should give you a good balance of steering and reduce the diff unloading. You can use tires, different springrates, shock positions and caster to change the steering characteristics. Once you get comfortable with the setup of the car and what changes cause which effects, then try changing the diff oils. The stock setup is very good with rubber tires. You should have a very competitive car if you use the stock setup and only change the shock positions to balance out traction. The Take-Off CS27 is a good tire, but you may want to have a harder compound available for the front in case you have too much steering. Good luck!
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Old 06-05-2002, 06:36 PM   #1989
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Default Setup

psycho, thanks man that is what I needed to know. I bought the Pro Spec and the setup it came with was for the front one way so I did not have a clue where to start, that is why I went with my friends setup. One more question, once I change the diffs and find a decent tire setup you say change the shock location to balance traction could you elaborate. Like IF I dont have enough steering shoud I move the front shocks up, or down, And If I have oversteer should I move the front shocks or the rear, also where would you recommend I put them to start with. Sorry for all the questions I just want to get as much info as possible from different people because we all have different driving styles and what works for one person might not work for me, but what works for someone else might. Anyways what info I have got so far is going to keep me busy for a couple of weeks.
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Old 06-05-2002, 06:44 PM   #1990
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Default Re: Re: Re: Tires

Quote:
Originally posted by Cartman



Yo sure it was 10000 seem thin we run super grease in the uk but i have put 50000 in now to try, how did your car handle under/over steer or neutral??
I did count the zero's before I posted it !
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Old 06-05-2002, 07:46 PM   #1991
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Default Re: Novaracer ?

Quote:
Originally posted by mugen21
How does 7,000 front and rear feal with rubber tires. I got my setup from a friend which we both run 50,000 front 30,000 rear. We thought his car was working pretty good except that it had a real bad push. he runs takeoff 27's in the rear in the stock Mugen treaded tires up front, we realized this last weekend that it is the front tires provide no steering and that is why it pushes, when he put different tires up front it had good steering but the rear was real loose. I don't understand the effects of changing diff on a on road car and it is such a pain to do at the track If I changed it and it doesn't work I will spend all my practice time (there is only about 1 to 1.5 hours between the time the track is setup and the races start so with waiting for frequencies and other stuff you don't have time to do major changes to the car) working on it. I am going to try Manticore's setup and see how it goes for now. THanks for the info guys.
The lighter diff oil lets the car change direction easyer than heavy oil and you have to adjust the amount of body roll to keep from unloading the inside tire so softer springs and limiting droop will keep those tires loaded and you will have more cornering power than any other full diff set up also if your track temp gets over 90degrees then i would stick with a sorex 36 tire and hpi red soft insert on all 4. with nitro i have noticed that we tend to run too soft a tire and they over heat and feather if you notice that that your tires are feathering try a harder tire compound and it will have more grip and last a lot longer, I have a set of sorex 40's that are a month old had look great heck it takes a hole day to wear that center molding rib smooth
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Old 06-05-2002, 07:51 PM   #1992
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Default Re: Re: Novaracer ?

Quote:
Originally posted by nova racer
The lighter diff oil lets the car change direction easyer than heavy oil and you have to adjust the amount of body roll to keep from unloading the inside tire so softer springs and limiting droop will keep those tires loaded and you will have more cornering power than any other full diff set up also if your track temp gets over 90degrees then i would stick with a sorex 36 tire and hpi red soft insert on all 4. with nitro i have noticed that we tend to run too soft a tire and they over heat and feather if you notice that that your tires are feathering try a harder tire compound and it will have more grip and last a lot longer, I have a set of sorex 40's that are a month old had look great heck it takes a hole day to wear that center molding rib smooth
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Old 06-06-2002, 05:07 AM   #1993
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mugan21: Try martin crisps page for a book on setup info.m Powered Racing

I found this to be real helpful. Take into account that Martin runs electric cars and that the ballance issues are not the same for nitro. The ballance of a nitro changes with the fuel load.

Your problems are simular to mine. I have a prospec that I run rubber tires on. I posted my setup a few pages back. Basically I removed the front 1 way and went to 10,000 oil in front and Kawahara negitive diff in the rear. Run the stock setup, but still lose on both tracks. My favoroite track is an unprepaired parking lot that runs 150' straight, but tends to be dirty and traction compound makes the situation worse Real loose!!!! I run the treadz 3B tires, med with med insert. Raising the droop to 9mm from 8mm (rear) helped. Lowering the ride height 4.5mm (F) 5.5mm (R) also improved my settings. I am still loose, so I went to grey springs in the front. Will know sunday how this works.
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Old 06-06-2002, 05:27 AM   #1994
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Nitro
mugan21: Try martin crisps page for a book on setup info.m Powered Racing

I found this to be real helpful. Take into account that Martin runs electric cars and that the ballance issues are not the same for nitro. The ballance of a nitro changes with the fuel load.

Your problems are simular to mine. I have a prospec that I run rubber tires on. I posted my setup a few pages back. Basically I removed the front 1 way and went to 10,000 oil in front and Kawahara negitive diff in the rear. Run the stock setup, but still lose on both tracks. My favoroite track is an unprepaired parking lot that runs 150' straight, but tends to be dirty and traction compound makes the situation worse Real loose!!!! I run the treadz 3B tires, med with med insert. Raising the droop to 9mm from 8mm (rear) helped. Lowering the ride height 4.5mm (F) 5.5mm (R) also improved my settings. I am still loose, so I went to grey springs in the front. Will know sunday how this works.

You need a softer suspension for a low traction track. You need more rear toe and droop if the track is pumpy.
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Old 06-06-2002, 05:33 AM   #1995
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Default Re: Re: Tweak fixing

Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore


you need a tweak station instead !!

the Hudy just let you make the car suspension setup asymmetrical left to right.

the tweak station let you balance your suspension from left to right wheel.
Do you guys know where to get good directions on how to use the tweak station correctly??
thanks
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