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Old 10-18-2007, 03:25 PM   #706
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
I just logged onto Rcscrewz.com and while I did not buy the screw kit, I did get all the way to the payment part of the checkout procedure and it never told me the screw kit was backordered.
yeah.. seems direct from rc screwz is the only place that seems to actually have them... $22.95 for the set, but they want $23.00 for basic shipping to my address in australia should be more like $5.00
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Old 10-18-2007, 04:26 PM   #707
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Wow, I think this MTX-4R goes down as the longest build - 3 weeks

In all honesty, I have built a number of Mugens, Kyosho's, Xrays etc in the past, and I was suprised the amount of modifications I had to make to get things to work properly.

The 12-3SCT was also tricky because the carby rubber would bind with the top plate or side brace, so the old file and countersunk screws had to be used. The carb just clears the top plate by 1mm if less.

Then again, It could just be my old age
Wow, looks great! tempted to get one, but our season ends in two weeks

What mods were needed? Do the parts not go together smooth?
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Old 10-18-2007, 04:38 PM   #708
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Wow, I think this MTX-4R goes down as the longest build - 3 weeks

In all honesty, I have built a number of Mugens, Kyosho's, Xrays etc in the past, and I was suprised the amount of modifications I had to make to get things to work properly.

The 12-3SCT was also tricky because the carby rubber would bind with the top plate or side brace, so the old file and countersunk screws had to be used. The carb just clears the top plate by 1mm if less.

Then again, It could just be my old age

from the pics it looks like you need to rotate the carb ball link down. I have mine set almost horizontal, that lifts up the bottom part to clear the radio plate...was that what you where talking about? my buddies same engine fits no mods....I run an os.
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Old 10-18-2007, 04:46 PM   #709
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Wow, looks great! tempted to get one, but our season ends in two weeks

What mods were needed? Do the parts not go together smooth?
Ok, before any one flames me, I do have a number of years experience, the last car I built was the Xray T2 and Kyosho 777 SP2, and the last Mugen built was the MTX-3, so this is what I am comparing it off.

1. The top plate needed to be filed down in a number of places
-steering linkage would not clear fully [different servo horns tried)
-around the carb of the Nova to allow WOT

2. Ball ends would bind quiet heavily

3. Both the standard side brace and the Kawahara brace would bind the rubber on the carb. These had to be filed down quiet heavily. Again, I think the carb now clears the top deck and side brace by less then a 1mm.

4. Some of the pillow balls were rusty

5. One of the bearings was faulty

6. As someone else mention screws were in wrong bags (not a big issue)

7. The clutch needed some special attention - speak to TomB (again, this could be due to the Nova)

Now, I am only comparing my thoughts to the other kits I have built, and comparing them to the two MTX-3's and MTX-2 built in the past.

I guess also alot of issues also were due to the Nova not clearing. The carb does seem to sit alittle low.

Having said all this, the car is about 90% built now, the car works and looks AWESOME. Having a couple of years off, I expected the standard to be lifted alitte.
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Old 10-18-2007, 04:49 PM   #710
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Originally Posted by JayL View Post
from the pics it looks like you need to rotate the carb ball link down. I have mine set almost horizontal, that lifts up the bottom part to clear the radio plate...was that what you where talking about? my buddies same engine fits no mods....I run an os.
Hey JayL,

Its not the carb ball link I am referring to, it is the rubber on the carb itself.
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:56 PM   #711
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Hey JayL,

Its not the carb ball link I am referring to, it is the rubber on the carb itself.
ay don't forget to get another shock tower man, or the mugen 4mm one. i could lend you mine from my kit but you will have to elongate the holes on the body at the rear if you use my shock tower as it is two stuck together so the body posts are slightly more back.
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Old 10-18-2007, 10:32 PM   #712
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Wow, looks great! tempted to get one, but our season ends in two weeks

What mods were needed? Do the parts not go together smooth?
You don't want a mugen there slow!
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Old 10-19-2007, 03:25 AM   #713
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Ok, before any one flames me, I do have a number of years experience, the last car I built was the Xray T2 and Kyosho 777 SP2, and the last Mugen built was the MTX-3, so this is what I am comparing it off.

1. The top plate needed to be filed down in a number of places
-steering linkage would not clear fully [different servo horns tried)
-around the carb of the Nova to allow WOT

2. Ball ends would bind quiet heavily

3. Both the standard side brace and the Kawahara brace would bind the rubber on the carb. These had to be filed down quiet heavily. Again, I think the carb now clears the top deck and side brace by less then a 1mm.

4. Some of the pillow balls were rusty

5. One of the bearings was faulty

6. As someone else mention screws were in wrong bags (not a big issue)

7. The clutch needed some special attention - speak to TomB (again, this could be due to the Nova)

Now, I am only comparing my thoughts to the other kits I have built, and comparing them to the two MTX-3's and MTX-2 built in the past.

I guess also alot of issues also were due to the Nova not clearing. The carb does seem to sit alittle low.

Having said all this, the car is about 90% built now, the car works and looks AWESOME. Having a couple of years off, I expected the standard to be lifted alitte.
Wow ! Surely it's a Monday kit ! I have just built two and came across none of the issues you mention ...or maybe I got Thursday kits!!
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Old 10-19-2007, 12:13 PM   #714
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Default anti roll bar

Without anti-roll bar, you will have more tyrewear or the same?

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Old 10-19-2007, 08:51 PM   #715
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Ok, before any one flames me, I do have a number of years experience, the last car I built was the Xray T2 and Kyosho 777 SP2, and the last Mugen built was the MTX-3, so this is what I am comparing it off.

1. The top plate needed to be filed down in a number of places
-steering linkage would not clear fully [different servo horns tried)
-around the carb of the Nova to allow WOT

2. Ball ends would bind quiet heavily

3. Both the standard side brace and the Kawahara brace would bind the rubber on the carb. These had to be filed down quiet heavily. Again, I think the carb now clears the top deck and side brace by less then a 1mm.

4. Some of the pillow balls were rusty

5. One of the bearings was faulty

6. As someone else mention screws were in wrong bags (not a big issue)

7. The clutch needed some special attention - speak to TomB (again, this could be due to the Nova)

Now, I am only comparing my thoughts to the other kits I have built, and comparing them to the two MTX-3's and MTX-2 built in the past.

I guess also alot of issues also were due to the Nova not clearing. The carb does seem to sit alittle low.

Having said all this, the car is about 90% built now, the car works and looks AWESOME. Having a couple of years off, I expected the standard to be lifted alitte.
weird? I'm also building the car and I guess I have been blessed with a freshy

The car has gone together flawlessly OS Speed Spec II & no need to modify

Feeling lucky!

Last edited by madjack; 10-20-2007 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 10-22-2007, 12:30 AM   #716
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
1. The top plate needed to be filed down in a number of places
-steering linkage would not clear fully [different servo horns tried)
-around the carb of the Nova to allow WOT

3. Both the standard side brace and the Kawahara brace would bind the rubber on the carb. These had to be filed down quiet heavily. Again, I think the carb now clears the top deck and side brace by less then a 1mm.
These issues have arisen because you have angled the carb off too far, I had the same problem with my CRF where about 1-2 degrees more angle was the difference between the carb clearing the deck fine and it binding at full throttle. The closer you get to 90 degrees the more clearance you will have between the radio deck/side brace and the carb, but if you have a large carby you will need to file it to clear the brake like Tom had to.

The other option is to put spacers between the engine and the monts, but you should only do this if you have a 1pc mount
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Old 10-24-2007, 05:02 PM   #717
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These issues have arisen because you have angled the carb off too far, I had the same problem with my CRF where about 1-2 degrees more angle was the difference between the carb clearing the deck fine and it binding at full throttle. The closer you get to 90 degrees the more clearance you will have between the radio deck/side brace and the carb, but if you have a large carby you will need to file it to clear the brake like Tom had to.

The other option is to put spacers between the engine and the monts, but you should only do this if you have a 1pc mount
All sorted anyway.

Ran the car last weekend for the first time. Wow, totally different to the previous cars, plenty of steering, well planted rear end. After a 5 year break, I was running equlivant lap times to what I was with my MTX-3 straight in the first heat (19.2s @ Moorebank for you Aussies). Car broke down in the A Final (massive rock damaged front pulley and belt), but otherwise no other problems, so it seems very durable, and responds well to slight setup changes.
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Old 10-24-2007, 06:44 PM   #718
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Thumbs down 2nd gear stripping

Hi guys sorry about the newbie question but would anyone have suggestions as to why a mtx4 keeps stripping 2nd gear. I have checked the engine for movement but it is not moving and i have the play between the gears spot on. It last about 5mins then just strips the gear. Its got me beat. I did it 3 times on sunday.
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Old 10-24-2007, 06:51 PM   #719
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Hi guys sorry about the newbie question but would anyone have suggestions as to why a mtx4 keeps stripping 2nd gear. I have checked the engine for movement but it is not moving and i have the play between the gears spot on. It last about 5mins then just strips the gear. Its got me beat. I did it 3 times on sunday.
use 4mm chassis or one-piece engine mount.
don't use very different first gear and 2nd gear ratio
mesh the gear the "right" way. there are many post in the past talk about it and one of my post has picture of how tight the gear mesh I use. I haven't strip a single gear ever since I bought my MTX4 a year ago and I hit things all the time.
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Old 10-24-2007, 07:16 PM   #720
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Originally Posted by juzza99 View Post
Hi guys sorry about the newbie question but would anyone have suggestions as to why a mtx4 keeps stripping 2nd gear. I have checked the engine for movement but it is not moving and i have the play between the gears spot on. It last about 5mins then just strips the gear. Its got me beat. I did it 3 times on sunday.
I been having the exact same problem lately. I stripped 5 2nd gear spurs in a week and each went after a few laps. I thought it was my engine bearings cause they actually had quite a bit of wobble so i replaced both front and rear. But it all came down to using the aluminium chassis brace from 3 racing and also using 3 racing spur gears. Once i put the plastic mugen brace back on and used the proper mugen spur gears i haven't had any problems since. Those 3 racing spur gears are so useless, they're way to brittle and just can't handle the power of an open engine.
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