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Still looking for a 2010 NT! Roller, PM me if you want to sell yours.

Also looking for a 2010 or 2011 NT1 roller in mint condition. Would prefer package deal with spare parts or even 2nd car. Will pay a fair price, I am no low-baller. Please PM me with details.

Thomas

Problem with side belting...
 

I'm having this side belting problem that i don't know what is the cause......when i use composite pulley on both pulley(sideways) my belting ok but when i change to cso alloy pulley i'm losing the belting tooth...can someone advise how to solve this?...i'm using 25t.....is this the cause of my problem?

How are the teeth on the pulley? Aluminum pulleys tend to get sharp over time and eventually chew belts up.

But mine is a new one.....still in good condition.....

Belting problem
 

Still got the problem...playing today and yet still losing some tooth on the side belt....someone please advise....

Switch back to the composite. No need for aluminum pulleys.

ya alum are not a must.. but the xray ones have holes in between the teeth to remove dirt dust ect... maybe thats ur prob? dirt is getting stuck and making it break.. i was picked up by rc america right before they released the pulleys and have built my car already.. i drilled 56 size hole in the plastic to create the same affect..

Any others possibilities?
 

Beside dust is there any other possibilities that can make this to happen to the belt?how about uj at the front?

Aluminum sharpens, even if the pulley is new it just takes one tooth with an edge on it to ruin the belt.

CSO 2.2mm Radio Plate Carbon Chassis

Xray released the t3 gear diff with gears that fit the NT1 which are composite. 304930 is the part number, enjoy.

where do i get them from who's got them

Nexus racing usually has most parts in stock, but at the moment I would contact your local Hobby shop and order some through RC America :). Well worth the 20 or so bucks. If your still a novice or race at a track with boards you may want to put them in the rear diff only if your worried about dnf's.

Looking forward to testing this sunday if weather holds out :)

CSO New Flex Radio Plate

I have the NT1 2009 ,can I switch or swap bottom chassis 2009 to 2011 ?

Yes sir, 2007-2010 chassis only had one revision I believe and it was the hold in the bottom of the chassis for the clutch nut adjustment. The bolt pattern for the 2011 chassis is the same, it has revised cutouts for the chassis stiffeners for the 2011.

EURO 200mm note, has anyone else noticed that most of the top decks for the nt1 are cut?

For more flex= more steering

I got that, it was just interesting.

new paint
 

new paint for SRC Kruzer...

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4681391_n.jpg

Nice paint job!

That would be thanks to Lucky of ShopUFO, hard to be disappointed with that. I think it's time for a revision next cycle.

Stripped spur
 

I ran the same spur and pinion gears all season without any problems until the weekend of our annual big race. All of a sudden I'm stripping the 2nd gear spur left and right. I went through a total of 3 spur gears in two days. I qualed in P2 and in the Mains I stripped out another one. I was so frustrated that I haven't touched the car since. Before I go through the car, do you guys have any idea what's causing this? Thanks in advance.

Make sure the two speed shaft isn't worn(the actual shaft), check the carrier bearings, clutch bell bearings, 2nd gear(if it's worn sharp it will eat gears), make sure your chassis is straight, and the screws are all tight. Also make sure when you set the gear mesh you check second gear with first gear off the shaft so you can check each individually. I would guess it's bearings.

Does anyone knows the sense of the brace in front of the rear diff?
You can see it on one xray in the EC-A Gallery from last weekende at redrc.
I cant upload pics. right now :/

Thanks!

Also check the travel of your throttle servo. Make sure under WOT the servo is not pulling the motor.

If you ran the same spur and pinion all season, chances are you ran the same rear bulkheads too.

Change them, get new bearings for the bulkheads and the clutch bell. Also check the bearing in the 2nd speed housing.

If you are stripping 2nd gear all of the sudden, means one of this items has failed or is about to fail.

this one?
http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/g...ankelnt1-3.jpg

So the 2 spd shaft bearings dont bind under lateral load, and maybe to take away some of the rear flex for more steering/ unstick the rear end. I chopped up an old V1 topdeck to do something similar a couple months ago.

ahh, I always change the plastics so I forgot about that, nice catch! lol

Is there 2 length of NT1 side belts? I see on the Xray web, there has 390 and 396. Which one is for which version of NT1?

the short belt was from the original NT1 v1 belt. I still have a stash of them and they work fine. The 2009 spec changed the side belt from v1 4mm to 4.4mm wide and 390mm long. You should be fine if you use the max exhaust headers, with the v1 or v2 radio trays. Some of the novarossi headers with the fins on the exhaust flange can cause clearance issues.

Correction 2009 was the first belt change, the 2011 has the 396x 4.5 belt. They are all interchangeable but the 2011 is the most durable.

@ rx7ttlm

yes that´s the right picture, thanks ;)

Strip
 

You are probably running 17-23, 18 23 will fix this or you can use KM hk1 second gear and you can run any gearing without having to worry about strippage.
Note when I run 18 -24 i strip 1 gear every run, but the km does not strip.
Try them you wont be dissapointed.

thanks rx7ttlm

Really... KM gears?? They have the worst quality in the market (no offense).

I have ran 17-23 since I have the car (2 years and counting), and I have yet to strip a gear in a race.

I have seen many stripped KM spurs and many KM pinions sharpen in a few races, whereas XRAY's last a lifetime.

I disagree, most of the team uses 17/23 combo and 17/22 with great success on bigger tracks. If you try more than 5 tooth split then you have problems. Xray factory gears last longer than anything else I have used to date so I believe that is also incorrect. If your having better luck with the km gear I have a feeling your doing something different with that set. I have yet to strip a xray gear, I buzzed a 60 tooth on the 4mm chassis before the v2 4mm chassis came but I still finished and didn't find it till post race cleaning.

I have used every gear xray makes for this car and I can tell you most tracks you only need 16 as a just in case, but mostly 17/59 and 17/60 for best first gear performance (engine dependent/ traction, my jp liked a shorter first than that) and second is 22/53, 23/55, 23/54 and SOMETIMES 23/53. One track I use 24/55 but it's a tight mesh unless you mill the engine mount holes.