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Old 11-03-2007, 12:50 PM
  #1366  
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A few companies make the clutch tool, but the one from www.ybslowinc.com is the nicest. They acutally make quite a few nice tools and upgrade parts.
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Old 11-03-2007, 05:14 PM
  #1367  
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yes ybslow makes some nice stuff
and just run the clutch stock for now till you get a handle on it and know what you think you need to do to tune your clutch.
most run the super hard spring (with kit) but with a yellow shoe.
do what Swauger said and you cant go wrong.
mugen also makes a clutch tool too.
and there drivers are really nice though they may cost a bit,there tips are great.
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Old 11-04-2007, 05:29 AM
  #1368  
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titanium turnbuckles, no need to buy the rear upper one, the original one is more easy to adjust. I run the whole car for more than 2 years, almost everything was original except the steel pulleys and front upper metal C-mount by Kawahara. Once you tried this car, you will love it.
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:41 AM
  #1369  
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Thanks a bunch for the tips, guys. Ashford Hobby had everything I needed, and really good prices, too. I can't wait to get my hands into this build, for sure.


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Old 11-10-2007, 05:58 PM
  #1370  
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Questions??

Anyone know where to get M-Mod parts in the United States?
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Old 11-21-2007, 08:46 AM
  #1371  
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For M Mod - The Border is a good place to purchase. It's not in the US but if you really want the parts, it'll get to you.

Definetly go with a reamer - www.reamer.com - EDP #00171 works fine.
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Old 11-21-2007, 08:53 AM
  #1372  
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Ok, I guess that's a definitive NO. Guess I won't get my hopes up on that one.



I have a set of GQ wheels along with a set of GRPs and they BOTH fit very tight on the drive axles. Is this normal? Would it help to get a 12mm reamer and hand ream the wheels for a smoother fit? At this point, they are anything but QR.
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Old 11-21-2007, 11:28 AM
  #1373  
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Ive seen Harry ream Swauger's wheels out and then coat the inside with a quick rub of grease for smooth pit stops
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Old 11-23-2007, 05:38 AM
  #1374  
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Found one at J&L Industrial Supply for $15. I'm just happy to know that it wasn't just me who found the wheels way too tight. A 11.93mm I.D. on a 12mm axle is just plain dumb. That's a lot of material to remove!

Glad I asked...



Thanks again, guys.

Last edited by squarehead; 11-23-2007 at 05:56 AM.
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Old 11-23-2007, 05:38 AM
  #1375  
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I got my reemer from a local tool supply house. Nothing special(cheapest one they had), but it has a lead end tapper to center its self by hand. Think it was around ten bucks.
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Old 11-23-2007, 06:09 AM
  #1376  
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Odd how RCtech has gone back to making posts before ones that had already been there before.
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Old 11-24-2007, 09:37 AM
  #1377  
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wrong tread

Last edited by Casey Belarde; 11-24-2007 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 11-24-2007, 10:03 AM
  #1378  
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Default Mugen MRX-4R

Hey Doug, im in the same boat as you!
First time building and 1/8 scale car and first time i'm going to race one LOL
Just want to do some local club and state race's in Florida.
What would be a good engine and pipe for a beginner in the 1/8 scale
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Old 12-18-2007, 02:32 AM
  #1379  
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Hi guys thinking about replacing my standard MRX 4R chasis to the kawahara MRX4R PRO chasis, due to a slight bend, i just need to know has anyone tried the kawahara pro chasis or heard any good or bad reviews about it, any info would help alot, i know there not cheap, thats why im on here asking, thanks guys hope to hear back soon
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:18 AM
  #1380  
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I'm curious as well......anyone have any good or bad things concerning this chassis?
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