Corse-R

Hop-ups? If you're referring to bling-bling, better to not spend money on bling... other parts can improve the performance of the car (if... you're really capable of maxing it). Let's see some:

- One piece engine mount: IMHO... the best and most important hop-up you can put on your car. Gives more stability to the engine crankcase and makes the chassis slightly stiffer on that zone. People speculate that engines gives some more revs with that engine mount, haven't noticed anything, but found the stiffening effect on the chassis.

- Rear blade sway bar: A nice tunning help, makes possible to adjust quickly the rear sway bar without the need of fiddling with the bars. Nice to have, but... not vital.

- Front CF body mount: Seems to hold much better the front body and transfer better the downforce created by the new bodies to the suspension. Not a bling-bling. Installed and compared the plastic to the CF mount.

- Ti screws/Pillowballs: Lightens the car, but.. many people insist on changing the lower-end screws and remove weight from the best place you can have weight (as low as possible) if you want, get the upper side only. Pillowballs are so hard that if you smack boards you can manage to break them. Better to stick with the steel ones. Beware: lighter isn't better or faster... ever.

- Rubber belts: Decrease drag, are softer and more delicate (I stick with the urethane units) - more expensive than the urethane and lasts less.

They are more options, but YMMV... I like the Aluminium JP Racing clutch bell, because I use the red shoe routinely. Delta Mfg makes some hard coated pinions that are much stronger and longer lasting than the stock ones (and... believe me, love them)....

Read some previous posts, this is a question many times answered here and on the plain MRX4 thread.

Nitro$junkie

iTrader: (7)

well ive got the one piece and light weight pully's
so CF upper bumper is a good option what about light weight first and second gear housing and light weight main shaft not tita
are the allu center block and hingpin mounts any good or just add to that bling bling effect

Corse-R

Anyone is quite different so your personal prefs will vary, my 4-R is the old version but... the unique options I've put and kept installed on it are the monoblock engine mount, the front CF body mount, upper Ti screwset and a red clutch shoe (expensive!) along a JP aluminium clutch bell.

Rubber belts for me (IMHO now) aren't really needed unless you are searching for the ultimate drag free transmission (better to invest on a good bearing cleaner). Many people put the rubber belts and neglect their bearings.

When mine need an exchange I'll look for a ceramic set, but... now the stock bearings are really fine and work great with a clean and a dab of oil on them.

Have here the 0139b uprights but... haven't put on the car (maybe some day I'll test them) my car needs a complete teardown and since I found that rear roll bar is warped I'll surely exchange it with the blade version as a tunning aid, until now I felt quite comfident adjusting the rear sway bar moving the ball ends on the bar.

Spillertwo

Hello,

Anybody here use the belt tensioner from M-Mod for the MRX ?

I'm asking because I just bought one and can not figure out how to mount it.

If anybody can explain it or perhaps have a picture of a mounted belt tensioner from M-Mod that would be a huge help.

Thanks,
Patrick

Loveless

I have a Protoform 1/8th scale lola type body for my mrx4r, the kit comes with two front body mounts, which one do i use short or long?.

mike jones

try the short one with the medium spacer underneath that should have the body at the correct position

Loveless

Yo good looking on those body post Mike, hey should i go narrow or wide for my basic set up on the rear end, the set up sheet says one way and the book shows another?. Also I run @ Crystal park raceway in compton, should i use the tires that come in the kit, if not what shore should i run thanx bro?.

mike jones

at crystal most people run the car narrow all the way around for me i just run the front of the car narrow an the rear i leave long at crystal and for the tires the ones in the kit will do fine, i think there 35's if you have any question hit me up at the track

p.s. my name is Brian; mike jones is my alter ego

Loveless

Whats up Brian, this is Kev the guy with the green lowered chevy, thanks for the the support, i hope i can get this car to hook up, i need you to take a look at it for me to see if its kewl when im done building it...

mike jones

oh its you.................alway making me look bad every time you show up with that shiny green truck ; no help for you .............just kidding anything you need let me know i got your back

Loveless

Hahahahahahah, I was trying to keep my identity down to a minimum here til i get my car hooked up, but i figured you'll figure me out soon, if my car performs as well as yours, you can have my truck lol...

Nitro$junkie

iTrader: (7)

how long is the mount required for the Protoform T530 body i only have the long body mount post how long do the mounts need to be so i can cut these ones i have to size

Corse-R

For the PF Lola T530 you need the short ones so, make yourself a favor and grab the bag with the front body mounts (Comes with the long & short body mounts along some washers to raise up too the body mounts - sorry, don't have the part no. here - I'm at office) and the front CF body mount.

Seems only bling but helps to hold the front of the body more planted (noticed that the new bodies push too far the plastic body mount and the body bottoms out with the ground). CF plate helps to put more downforce on the front of the car. Helped me.

Nitro$junkie

iTrader: (7)

OK Cool so the post dont come with the CF plate lucky cause i was only just going to get that thinking that they come with thanks

Loveless

Need to know if anyone has an article, or where to get good info on building shocks for the MRX4R, i followeed the instructions given but maybe theres some things i can do to them to get better handling out of the car...

How u living...