.12 SS default settings
 

Another question...
I finally got some time to break in my new 12SS engine.
HSN is 3 turns out, LSN is 3 1/2 with throttle at full... Idle looks OK, bout 1.5mm.. However, it will not start unless i hold the throttle at 1/4 to half... linkage setup look ok.
Lots of fuel spitting out, 1 tank ran about in 5-6 mins.

Seems tooo rich, should i try to lean it out now, or leave it that way for another tank or 2? I ran about 4 tanks already.
tank 1 thru 3 at idle, 4th tank at low-mid throttle...

I don't wanna lean it out yet... but I guess if i need to get it to idle... So, any suggestion?
T.I.A.

CaptEvo;
 

You need to use the thin short zip ties 1/8"x 4". If you run without a zip tie, then you risk having the Filter being knocked off in a collision. By the time you run to get the Car, the Engine can suck enough dust inside to cause alot of damage. Even on a permanent race track there is tons of dust built up along the outer boards.

NEVER run your engine without an "Oiled" Air Filter or without being "Zip-tyed" to the Carb, NEVER.

Thanx, i know... i was able to manage to zip tied it right above the idle needle.

CaptEvo,

Watch your low end screw on you carb. Mine would not stay set after break-in. It would screw itself in or out as I throttled and/or braked. Ended up now with an engine that will only run at about 275+ degrees. Had to replace the stock carb with a OS carb. The engine ran very strong before all of that. It was running with the CV-Rs and MT12s at my local track. The stock carb is the only weak point I see with the 12RSS.

Thanks JLock. I'll look out for that
How's the low end on your 12ss? mine seems weak. Temp is around 240 degrees

the base .15 that comes with the rs4 3 rtr has a 4.6 mm dia carb that really restricts the motor. i suggest upgrading to hpi's 5.5mm dia carb .i installed a carb off an old traxxas tmaxx motor on my neighbors car w/2 speed and the car screams now.

FROGGY;
 

I also have used the Traxxas carbs on all of my HPI .15FE engines with great results. The .12SS already has a decent carb on it.

CaptEvo

240F may be a little cold for the HPI .12SS to produce decent power. Shoot for 260F after a few minutes of racing/running. Check the temp with the engine still running and at least 1/4 of a tank of fuel. (1/2 tank is best)
As long as you stay below 300F all the time you will be fine.

JLock;

Try some High Temp Silicone RTV on just the threads of your needle valve to keep it from loosening.

The clutch setting makes a really big difference in the accelleration of the Car. Also removing the pull starter is about the best hop-up you can do to your engine.

If you're having acceleration problems out of your HPI RS4 SS,and it's still basically stock, than you really really really need to get the racing clutch. The stock clutch is absolutley HORRIBLE and has no buisness being run after break in. There is no way that a FE should outrun a 12rss. The stock clutch is what's holding you back. I've just finished break-in on my brothers and had serious acceleration problems out of it, which were ultimatley being caused by the clutch, and the stock pipe. After replacing the stock clutch, the car improved dramatically...

i have a couple questions on subjects that have been touched upon resently.

1. do a lot of you cut the 2 extra holes off your racing clutches or drill new ones to make it drop later?

2. could i use marvel mystery oil as filter oil? or any other kind that is commonly around? i havent been using filter oil as of yet.

3. when you zip tie your filters on, do you leave the ties on so its always a tight fit or do you retie it every single time you take it off?

4. why am i addicted to these troublesome cars?

1. Cut those 2 holes off to make it engage later. It really makes a difference. Just be careful not to cut into the hole you're planning on using.

2. I've heard of using the marvel mystery oil as air filter oil. However,I think I would stick with oil that is purpose made to be used as air filter oil. I use duratraxx air filter oil because it's real cheap and works well....

3. I usually put the zip ties on my air filter just tight enough to stay on and still be able to reuse.


4. You might be addicted to these cars because it's still way cheaper than racing real cars!!!! ;)

actually, ive been sitting here thinking about it, and how would cutting the last two holes off make a difference? is it that the more weight the clutch has, the sooner centrifugal force acts upon it, drawing it out? or does it have something to do with that end of the clutch and the way it is against the spring?

You're pretty much right. By cutting thosde two hole off, you are reducing the rotating mass. Since you'll still be using the same stiff spring that's made for the heavier clutch, the engine will have to rev a little higher to get the clutch shoes to engage.

wahturi;
 

1) Just trim enough off to get the clutch shoes to clear. The LAST hole may be too much and cause wheelspin. No drilling needed.

2) Marvel M Oil does not last very long as filter oil. Just buy the Associated Pre-Filter oil for about $4. Use soap and water or Electric Motor spray to clean.

3) Pull the Zip-tie tight with a pair of pliers, then just force the Filter back on with the palm of your hand to re-install.

4) Ahh...the sound and power of Nitro and ALOT cheaper than my 1968 Road Runner.

Re: wahturi;
 

IMPRESSIVE!!!!!!!
I love those old Mopar B-bodies. They were big,heavy, and extremely fast for their size. I might presume that your's has a 383???